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FishTank

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Everything posted by FishTank

  1. I have a few that I rotate around. When it is cold, rainy/snowy and nasty..... Muck Muckmaster or a pair of Asolo Hiking Boots if not in a boat Spring and Fall...... A trail running shoe. My favorite is the La Sportiva brand. Some come with soles that are sticky in wet conditions. Warm weather....... Croc Sandals or a pair of cork bed Tevas (supper comfy and they are supposed to be made for fishing) For me, they always get softer with age. I'm on my 3rd pair.
  2. If this is the TDZ100SHLA, I have that reel and have been thinking of changing these parts as well. I have been having trouble with the casting thumb bar popping up during a cast. This as caused both the drive gear and the pinion gear to get worn. I think Mikes Reel Repair has both of them or you can also call Daiwa direct. The reel schematic is attached. Daiwa_TD_Zillion_100HLA2C_100SHLA.pdf
  3. It sounds like you are trying to hit a lot of techniques with the next set up so I am going to suggest a kind of bullet proof casting set up that will do just about anything. There are several other options out there but if I had to start over and pick one that would end that starter frustration, I would go with..... A St. Croix Avid 7' MH Fast (or a M if you don't plan on using a bait over 5/8oz) and a Shimano Curado with a 6.X retrieve. I found this setup to be a good go to if I just want to carry one rod and reel to do some bank fishing or hike and fish. I have thrown topwater, jerkbaits, jigs, T-Rigged soft plastic, some medium size crankbaits, and 3/8-1/2oz spinnerbaits. I have caught fish with all of these techniques but I think a Moderate rod, in my case, would be best for crankbaits and a M or ML spinning set up for spinnerbaits. One thing with this rod, it is sort of stiff but this does translate into some good hook sets.
  4. I went through this with camera equipment years ago. I had a personal articles policy with a major company and at that the time all they asked for was proof that you had the item in question which meant either a picture of it, a receipt or a box and you that you brought the items to the insurance agent to confirm the serial numbers. After about 5 years from when I signed the policy, I made a claim when I fell down a small cliff and my equipment went into a lake. It was a loss of about $8000-$10000. The insurance company investigated it like it was a scam. They tried everything to deny it. I had to file a police report (which the police laughed at> no crime) and I had to go with the insurance investigator to the place where it was lost twice. After a couple of months, they agreed to settle. At first I was excited, then they tried to scam me by sending a "similar camera and lens". The equipment had a new value of about $1000. It was a joke to me. I eventually had to send them item numbers and serial numbers from new equipment at my local photo store that was either exact or similar in price. They were not going to just issue me a check despite it stating as such in my policy. After this claim, they either wanted to immediately drop my policy or double the cost with a $1000 deductible. Also, according to them, and this is the main part related to your fishing equipment, all personal articles policies going forward must have a receipt of purchase from a reputable licensed dealer. This meant no used equipment, eBay, or dealer specials, even if new. This was in 2004. Here was their reasoning... Maybe a year or two before I made my claim, it had become a major issue for them to have people buy used equipment, insure it, then claim it was damaged, lost or stolen and the insurance company would just replace it with new or write a check for the full retail price> especially if it was a partial loss. They just didn't question it because it cost them too much to investigate it. Eventually the claims became so frequent and high in dollars that every claim was scrutinized. What they had found out was a lot of claims involved stolen goods and people would either sell it again or pocket the money and the product with there not ever being any loss at all to begin with. People could turn an item over two or three times > This is the reason they need receipts.
  5. I have a couple spools of it and so far it has been great but I think still like Power Pro better. Smackdown does hold its color better. I also have some the Kanzen. It has also done well but it is a step below the Smackdown, not by much though. I have a feeling it will start to fray faster than either Smackdown or the Power Pro.
  6. I have the Abu Garcia Fantasista Rigista 7' M and I picked it for under $200. So far its the best rod I have ever found at that price. The ML can still be had. It would be great for a light T Rig or weightless worms. https://www.sierra.com/abu-garcia-fantasista-regista-casting-rod-1-piece-610-medium-light~p~310ag/?filterString=s~abu-garcia%2F
  7. I am not a Patriots fan but this kid took it to another level and Aced his Science Fair Project.....
  8. DSG has the Okuma Stratus clearanced out for under $30. Nice cheap reel.
  9. I like to use a Carolina Rig with a 1/4-1/2oz weight and a Zoom lizard.
  10. Booyah and Spro been my favorite so far.
  11. I would keep the rod you have and get a separate rod. At that depth and with that amount of wobble in that crankbait, you probably don't want or need a very sensitive or expensive rod. You might look at the Okuma TCS rods. They have 2 models that are able to up to 2oz. Amazon has them for around $110 or less. I was considering this rod for kind of the same reason as you, swimbaits and deep, heavy cranks and decided that this technique was not for me just yet (big swimbaits that is).
  12. Shimano has been my favorite but I also use Ardent. I am not a fan of Hot Sauce.
  13. That is nice old bait. I would leave it in the package and bring it out anytime you want to play "Remember When......".
  14. Went to my local DSG today and they had all of their clearance stuff buy 5 get 5 free. I picked up 5 Strike King Crankbaits for a $3.47 each, 2 GYCB spinnerbaits, and 3 bags of Berkley Power Worms, all for under $20.
  15. Yap. I have a 7'4'' ML Fenwick Elite Tech that I use for drop shot.
  16. I have seen guys use a 7' St. Croix Yak rod with great success for this sort of thing but I don't care for the weird grip material.
  17. I use braid but prefer FC for most fishing. I don't dislike braid, I just feel it is a technique specific line >heavy cover, topwater, etc). FC I like for all soft plastic, jigs, and crankbaits.
  18. Amazon and Tackle Warehouse has always worked for me. There several great good lines that come in bulk spools (Big Game, P Line CXX, Invizx, Yo Zuri Hybird just to name a few). It varies on which one is better with cutting down on the initial memory. Some spools are so wide that they have the same diameter as the smaller filler spools.
  19. 12lb Sunline Natural or 12lb Invizx (I like FC for deeper cranks)
  20. I should introduce you to my neighbors........
  21. This is the closest thing I could find. It's not the correct color.... It's from a company called Revenge. They are calling them Swimbait Hedz.
  22. Not yet. Hopefully it is an improvement over their other braided line offerings. Personally I like PowerPro, Sufix 832, and Seaguar's versions.
  23. I like GYCB single tail grub. I caught a ton of crappie and large mouth. I also like Berkley's Power Grub. Just about any color seems to work in cold water/early spring.
  24. Black with blue flake for most water conditions Green pumpkin black flake when black and blue flake is not working
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