FishTank

I would have liked for them to upgrade me to a different level rod as well. It seems that, after reading some reviews and posts here, I am not the only one with an Elite Tech rod that has broken.

We have had some but not tons in every area. When I checked the averages for IN, we had about 2 inches in April, 7 inches in May and about 3+ inches for June. So nothing out of the ordinary.

I got through to Fenwick and they did seem a little (for a lack of a better word) grumpy. But I don't think it had anything to do with me or my rod, it was just the amount of calls they have coming in, the total lack of staff, and a few not to happy customers. I did send them what they asked for (pictures and my info) and a new rod will be sent my way when they can ship it. It may be a month but they did stand by their product and sent me a new rod (different model) covered under their warranty. If I had ordered the same model I have, it would have been September or longer. Overall it was a good experience and I think they are doing the best they can under the circumstances. Hopefully the new rod will hold up better. In a way I wish they would have said... "Sorry about your luck". It would have given me an excuse to order a G. Loomis NRX but I guess it will wait until next time.

I fished a lot the past few weeks and after many years of fishing, I have never seen the water in Indiana lakes look this bad. Each lake I have been to has been either muddy or full of scum on top of the water. At one popular lake we went to (Waveland) we counted at least 100 dead fish floating around the lake. I also noticed a few floaters at Brookville which was also muddy. Another lake that was bad was Salmonie. It was just like fishing pea soup. And on it goes with all the other lakes we have fished (Monroe, Raccoon, Lemon, Glenn Flint, Eagle Creek, Cataract, Patoka, Wawasee......) We have been discussing it with other Indiana fisherman but have yet to hear a definitive answer. Some say it's caused by farm pesticide run off, others say it was the weird weather we had at the beginning of the year. The only thing I heard that sounded concrete came from an Army Core engineer. She said that the water she has looked at has had low levels of oxygen caused by an unknown source and it may make the blue green algae a big problem later in the year. Has anyone heard what the deal is with the water?

I ran into the same thing on Amazon. I thought that I had picked up a bad/fake bulk spool of Invizx but according to Seaguar and after much discussion, what I had purchased was the real deal. Seaguar just did a poor job of spooling the line on the bulk spool. I was lucky though. Amazon refunded me my money and for whatever reason, sent me another spool that I did not ask for. I contacted them and they said to keep it. Crazy. That spool was also poorly wound. It has spots where the line crosses over and under each other and looks almost like it had been spooled around a backlash. I shouldn't complain though. It was free and it's good line.

I have been catching them but the past few weeks a couple of the lakes we have been to have had a murky film on top of the water and the water has been super stained and muddy. This has made topwater difficult.

50lb Seaguar braid.

I don't use it often for frogs but I like the G. Loomis 844C GLX when it comes to being lightweight. I primarily use the same rod in the IMX line up for frogs. The tip is not as soft as the GLX and it seems to have a little more backbone. It is also not as sensitive and a bit heavier but for whatever reason I have better hook ups with the IMX when it comes to frogs.

I have the 6.2:1 and have used it for just about everything. Since it's primary purpose is crankbaits and spinnerbaits, I don't see where the fast ratio helps. Personally, I think you just need to be mindful of what reel you have on and turn the handle accordingly.

So I have always been a believer that most rods break due to user error. I read and hear from guys that say, "I broke my (whatever brand) rod on a hook set. It just snapped." My next thoughts are always> did something else go wrong here and it's probably not the rods fault. Well today for the first time ever, I am the guy that broke a rod on a hook set. I was fishing a small swimbait and jig head with a Shimano Stradic, 6lb test FC, on a 7'2'' ML Fast Fenwick Elite Tech Walleye Rod. I have had this rod for a few years and it gets limited use. But oddly, I had something hit the bait on a long cast and when I lifted the rod to set the hook> snap. It broke right in the middle. I caught one fish (2lb+ largemouth) on this rod about 15 minutes before it snapped and had no issues up until the break. I am going to call Fenwick on Monday and see what they can do, if anything. Any thoughts on Fenwick's warranty and customer service?

I would pass. G. Loomis stopped selling blanks around 2008-09.

It's a tie between the Daiwa Steez SV TWS on a St. Croix Legend Elite 6'8'' M Fast and a Shimano Antares 70A on a G. Loomis 853C. I use 12lb Invizx on the 70A and on the Steez is 10lb Tatsu. Baits.... 5in senko Black with blue flake t-rigged with a 1/8oz bullet weight and the Megabass Dark Sleeper.

I haven't seen an old Quantum that I would consider buying used and I own a few. As far as Abu goes, I would go with old round reels but parts can get expensive. My favorite older reels are (don't own the Daiwa's though)...... Shimano Core Shimano Curado B and E Shimano Chronarch (any) Shimano Calcutta Daiwa TDZ Daiwa Luna Daiwa Alpha

I have a few that are sort of duplicates.... G. Loomis 844C GLX and IMX, and a 783 GLX 2 2012 Antares (one regular and one HG)

I can't tell what the noise is exactly. The main gear I think should be brass as well as the pinion. The orange seal bearings will make noise. The ceramic bearings tend to make a grinding sound. The seals can also rub and make a weird noise. I took the seals off of mine. If I were you I would get a factory set of bearings and a set of new gears and start there. Here is part two on a Shimano Citica from the same era. You can see what is should look like. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFxdapDGOOY

You can try these guys in NY. I have heard good things but have not ordered from them. https://www.capitolfishing.com/g-loomis-nrx-jig-and-worm-casting-rods-p/s-glnrxjwcr.htm

I think the Avids are still made in Park Falls.

After giving it some thought, the chances of getting into something big in saltwater that will run and be strong are pretty good compared to bass fishing. I usually don't recommend braid but in this case you maybe better served with it. I would go with 50lb Power Pro and a 20lb leader but you could also go straight braid for salt. The braid will discolor and could break down faster in salt but it will work well with the various species you may encounter.

Kind of agree. I had one and it broke on the first day of use> user error. Also, the standard size does not hold as much as a regular 3700 but they are well made otherwise. On a side note, I recently picked up some of the BPS waterproof boxes and they are not bad for the money.

DSG also has the Plano Edge boxes buy one get one 1/2 off.

Welcome to the forum.... I might rethink using that SX in saltwater. From what I can remember this reel has been known to lock up after exposure to saltwater even after being rinsed in freshwater. Not knocking the reel though. I am sure it would be great for bass. As far as line goes, 12lb or 15lb Invizx.

Topwater: Whopper Plopper T-Rigged Plastic: Too many to list but Senkos and Zoom Lizards Crankbaits: Lucky Craft CB series and Megabass Deep-X All time favorite: Megabass Vision 110. Fish just smash this thing. It is the funnest lure for me to fish.

I have used Sniper, Shooter, Invizx, Tatsu, Abrazx, and others and not really had hook setting issues with any of them. Different characteristics, manageability, casting, abrasion resistance, knot strength and longevity> yes but not hook sets. I would look at the hook and what presentation you are using as I am guessing you are concerned about the line stretch. Also, what rod is being used? If you are using a Moderate rod with a regular worm hook that may also be a minor concern.

I am guessing this is the silver 200A. I would clean it from top to bottom, replace the idle gear, soak the bearings, re-oil/lube, check the bearings to see if they are bad, and replace (probably) the spool bearings and the drag washers.

I would, as others have suggested, take a little of the line off and use it as backing. Then I would add new line.