FishTank

If those are the two you have, I would go with the one that has the lower gear ratio. My preference is a reel that is 5.x:1 but all really need to do is reel slow enough to fit your needs.

I have tried them and they're not bad but I have other creature baits I like better.

I fish them on occasion in specific spots where I know salamanders/newts are present. Bass seem to eat them or at least want to attack them, year round.

I have gear in various price ranges I take on my kayak but I agree it's easy to loose a set up, especially in high winds and with wakes from big boats. So I try to be cautious in what I take but at the same time I want my setups to be functional and capable of taking a beating. I have found I don't like to take my Curado DC (I tend to get my reels wet and it doesn't respond well to a dunking) or my more expensive stuff. I have found my favorite set up is a Shimano Chronach with a St. Croix Mojo Yak Med. Fast. Next would be my ML St. Croix Avid and a Shimano Stradic. I also like shorter lighter rods with fast soft tip (but not a Moderate taper) as apposed to longer heavier rods with an X-Fast tip. A few things on the Mojo Yak.... Not big on the Wynn grips but they get the job done when things get wet, the shorter handle is great on kayak and helps with hook sets, this rod is soft and whippy (great for long casts)... all that said, it's not the most sensitive rod but it does bring in fish.

A little bit of everything. Jigs, soft plastic and maybe topwater.

I was pushed. It's not my fault.... at least that's what I keep telling myself. A new Met is coming tomorrow .

I am currently using 8lb FC on my Steez CT. No issues at all. I could probably go down to 6lb without any concerns.

I have the old version and it's awesome. If the new is equal or better, you will have a fine rod on your hands. It works great for both techniques you mentioned.

Can you post some pics of the reels in question? Did you spool them yourself? Is the external brake working properly (is the cone moving back and forth when you turn the dial)?

I bought some the Samurai FC early this year and it's great line. I would say it falls somewhere between Invizx and Tatsu. The line keeper works really well. I have since emptied the spool of Samurai and used the keeper for a different spool. Works well but it's not a universal fit

I have the 903 and have thrown a DT16 with it. Although not ideal, it worked. I would say the 845 would be fine with it. Just my two cents, I am a big Loomis fan and my 903C IMX Pro CBR is a great rod but I like the Legend Glass from St. Croix for deeper crankbaits better.

Between my middle finger and my ring finger is where the stem of the reel goes. Anything else feels wonky. And after two semesters of Anatomy in college.... 4 fingers + 1 thumb = 5 digits. It was on a test, believe it or not.

For that price I would also look at the St. Croix Legend Glass. I have owned several over the years and this one has been my favorite so far.

I had the same 803C GLX and unfortunately broke it (my fault) years ago. I did the Xpeditor service and Loomis sent me a newer version without the Recoil guides. It's a great rod but the original was like a magic wand. I still miss the original rod today. I also had one of the GLX crankbait rods (can't remember which one ) from the same era and didn't care for it as much as I thought I would. It was actually too sensitive for a crankbait rod and the taper made hook sets feel off. Granted it is a really nice rod, it just wasn't what I wanted in a crankbait rod. I ended up selling it after the first season.

783C GLX.

I am not expert at it but I tighten my cast control until the bait does not drop, leave the brakes at the current setting, cast low and hard and control things with my thumb (especially stopping the bait). For spinning reels, I do kind of the same thing. Except I put my hand over the spool as the line is going out, and then close my hand around the spool and closing the bail in one motion>stoping the bait. One other thing, that for me helps, is that I max out or come close to the rods upper end weight. I know these weight guides are not all that accurate but if I over load the rod, the tip can act like a whip. So for a senko and a 1/8oz bullet weight (around 1/2oz total), I would use a M rod with a fast tip. For a 1/2oz jig with a trailer (5/8oz+ weight), I would use a either a MH or H (depending on the trailer) Fast or Extra-fast. And.....calm water is almost a must for me to get a good, accurate cast in.

15lb FC. I am partial to Seaguar's Abrazx, Invizx and Tatsu. All three work well but Tatsu is my favorite.

You might take a look at the St. Croix Mojo Yak rod. It does have a shorter handle but it has the type of tip you're after. The tip on these rods are soft but not as soft as a Moderate action rod. They load easy and cast a long way, which makes them ideal for kayaks. I am not a huge fan of the Winn grips though. The 7' ML should cover those weights.

In my case it has always been 20 or 30lb straight braid with pickerel and walleye. I have the better luck with braid to leader than do straight braid with these toothy critters. In some cases I have caught several with 6lb braid only to see them smack my topwater braided line and not the lure.

I use straight braid for topwater and heavy cover fishing with a one particular baitcaster and on one finnese spinning combo I use braid with leader. Other than that, I am not a huge fan of braid but it has its purpose. I use FC for all other bottom contact baits and jerkbaits but mono for crankbaits. One my gripes with braid and I have a few, is that I see more damage and wear on reels that use braid all the time. Line guides, bearings, gears, etc... all have signs of more use than reels that use regular FC or mono. Of course this depends on the reel and how it is used.

That might be true for some people..... just spend a day watching people back up their boat on a boat ramp. That reverse back up computer package comes in handy. So does lane assist after they have had a few beers and a whole day on the water.

I have been thinking about that myself. It rides better with a load in the back or towing something but I wouldn't say it's dangerous.

Don't know for sure. All I know is, it was smother and the rear end was more stable. It felt like a totally different truck. I test drove several prior to buying. I would say it felt like a Lincoln compared to the other Ford equivalent.

Oh I wish this was true..... I have an XLT and was given a Lariat for a week when they did two recalls. The Lariat is a smooth riding dream. My XLT is a truck with chrome bumpers. Also, Shimano did more marketing for the SLX than the Antares. I went to two shows when the SLX came out along with the Daiwa Tatula Elite. Tons of hype, marketing, and pro fisherman pushing for these reels but nothing on the Antares and Steez.

DVT has a great rep here and has helped me more than once but I would contact Lew's first. They too have had a great customer service record. Often going to great lengths to help keep customers happy.