S. Sass

I was talking with a friend when he saw this post up on my screen. We got to bsing about it and watched about 3 or 4 YouTube videos of these failures one after another probably watched 50 or more of these kind of mistakes. We both noticed a common theme with them. (besides the stupidity) I bet over 2/3 of them were midsize or small vehicles. Kind of makes ya think, the margin for error is going to be higher. Less tire on the ground less weight to plant the tire on the ground and maybe other points as well. And although its not a scientific test they were just random video compilations of these incidents so I thought it did have some merit to it. Oh it was later thought there were more Fords in the tank than any other brand as well. But that could be biased comment.

Nice reel ya got I really like my Tournament MB.

No heck no. I just think back to the days in school when they had the slogan "Don't Do Drugs" When I see the retarded prices of something like a fishing reel,a lure, or a old car etc. I understand the reason some do it and others I don't. Still doesn't make it make any more sense. I think I could find a new reel with a warranty of equal quality that I could fish with.

I didnt mean it in a mean way.

I figured as many times as this subject has been touched on everyone knew no to mix them with any other baits. I was surprised to see the post was just that.

Not knocking yaks its the "in thing" to have and do. But if your fishing and anyone wants to go with you you at least have that option now. Along with the option to put a gas motor, if you so desire later for larger lakes.

I don't know what your boat weights but mine with a 115 Johnson gets up on plane quickly, and stayed up there as well. I would think a 150 would make mine have wings. I did check my 18ft SeaArk with 2 full live wells, and all of the fishing gear, a family size cooler, and two grown men, on slightly choppy water did 44 mph without pushing it to the extreme max rpm. It felt really good and I know you enjoyed the nicer ride as i do in these little bigger boats. Glad everything is working out for ya.

Say what? really ... I have a spool of Mono coming but thats it at the moment.

I think you can get any of the Lew's in that price range and be completely satisfied. Lew's has a good reputation and I like their reels. Any of the BB series reels, Lew's Tournament Pro G, Superduty, Superduty Lite, or Superduty Wide should be able to fix you up for that price.

Yeah I saw them last night and they are $39 had two 6'10" Crankbait Hank Parker Lew's rods and two other 7' Hank Parker Lew's brand rods. It was a very stiff rod for a Crankbait rod to say the least. It did have the nice Made in China sticker on it as well.

OK I have went through all the responses to this point. Trying to keep in mind what the original idea I had in mind when asking the question,"What basic tools should a boat have on it? " Obviously I took what were repeated responses or tools that would be redundant and came up with this list. Tools suggested Philips screwdriver Flat blade screwdriver Pliers average size Vise-grips Channellock Pliers 10" Crescent Wrench 10" Small wrench set Wire cutters Spark plug wrench Voltmeter Prop wrench Flashlight with Xtra batteries (also a flashlight app is pretty good as a backup) Knife Jump box Wooden block cut at an angle (section of 4 X 4) Duct tape Electrical tape Plastic cable ties / Zip ties Spare Prop A piece of stainless steel wire about 36" long 6" of fuel hose Hose clamps Spark plugs Note: I edited my first post to make it easy to see the list for others looking for such information. These items I agree should be had. These are more subjective as to if you think they belong in your specific 24/7 boat tool box. As some people carry a cell religiously and probably will have it but not one left in the boat 24/7. I will make sure I have a lug wrench that actually fits the boat lug nuts and suggest other new boaters do as well. You factory tow vehicle lug wrench may not fit. Cell phone Jack Lug wrench Since I am the only one pulling my boat I will keep appropriate tire changing tools in my trucks tools. This will save space, and save weight and on my boat. Also they wont fit in my smallish toolbox keeping them from ending up a rusted mess. Thanks to everyone who helped.

I picked up 4 different colors of them at the $2.99 price and probably should have doubled up. Take bluebasser86 advise above and they work just fine. I think it's the baby bass color that I've had some luck with.

Typically under 7 is what I read and see where there is a kind of a break from good to better or vise versa. I know the Lew's reels are quality reels as I have several and use them religiously. The Shimano Casitas someone else will have to speak for.

Mine is stainless but I don't have the original. Should I still carry a spare? We don't have a lot of rock locally more wood and sand or dirt bottoms. Vise grips added

Might not be the same ones I'm just guessing. Is that where you saw them? Heck I'll go buy all of them if they screwedup there was only 4 two of each one.

The one time someone taking to long on the ramp could be excused? I thought I saw a Ford logo there wasn't sure though. Anytime I need a laugh I go watch Mustang videos and even some Corvette ones but it seems Mustangs are 2 to 1 on mistakes. Boy oh boy are there some good ones.

Channellocks!!! Yeah I forgot I had a pr of them on there already too. I see a lot of mention of spare props and prop wrenches. I guess I baby my boat a lot I just didn't think I would need them. Are they that bad about replacing? I'll see about getting them since it appears to be a sound idea. Block of wood added and already have 2 flashlights

Ok I always have a knife on me and one in my tackle but an extra one in the boat couldnt hurt. As for duct tape and ties I have them and will add those to the boat. What kind of waterproof toolbox do you have? I'm interested in that as well as I have a history with streetcars and drag cars with a lot of tools. I cannot stand for my tools to rust. They cost way to much and I am anal about them anyway. Thanks.

I think my Walmart just got those same rods in. I know one was a 6'10" and the other was a 7' can't remember the other specifics other than they were sliver and black Lew's brand. And we're like $50 I hadn't seen them before at my Walmart. They looked decent but I was in a hurry so I planned to go back later and check them out.

Boat Tool Box suggestions Philips screwdriver Flat blade screwdriver Pliers average size Vise-grips Channellock Pliers 10" Crescent Wrench 10" Small wrench set Wire cutters / side cutters Spark plug wrench Voltmeter / test light Prop wrench Flashlight with Xtra batteries (also a flashlight app is pretty good as a backup) Knife Jump box Wooden block cut at an angle (section of 4 X 4) Wire brush (to clean corroded connections) Duct tape Electrical tape Plastic cable ties / Zip ties Spare Prop Spare Prop Nut Spare Kill Switch cord Spare drain plug A piece of stainless steel wire about 36" long 6" of fuel hose Hose clamps Spark plugs Assortment electrical connectors This is not to be mistaken for a Medical Emergency Kit ! The list above I do not take credit for as the members here and some input from researching the internet helped to create it. My original post starts below this line ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Ok since I now have a boat that I feel confident in taking miles out on the water I am interested in knowing what basic tools should a boat have on it. Now mind you my boat is no yacht so I don't need a full blown rollaway. I just want what a typical experienced guy with a 115 Johnson outboard on a 18ft bass boat would carry. So let's hear what you carry and what you carry your tools in. Don't laugh my tools are not probably correct this is why I am asking. But so far I have : 1 Philips screwdriver average size 1 Flat blade screwdriver average size 1 Crescent wrench 8" I believe 1 Pliers average size Thanks for sharing

Of course not being in your shoes I don't know. But this is where T-rigged came from and made it popular. T-rigged properly should excel when used in heavy veg, thick hydrilla, thick moss... it should not pull through the plastic so easily. Just guessing but maybe your setting the hook point to deep into the plastic. From my experience you don't have to come near penetrating the outer surface with the straight shank hook point. I think people that have been use to skin hooking the standard EWG trying to keep or get that hook point out as much as possible sometimes think that a straight shank should be .0001 of a inch from coming out of the bait. This is far from necessary. On strait shank hooks the point is already leading the way out of the bait with the angle it sits at. Not to mention these razor sharp hook tips of today have no problem poking through. This differs from a EWG that is skin hooked as the skin hooked portion of a EWG is basically being ripped through, using the dull back side of the hook not the tip, the point/tip of this style hook is not leading the way to penetrate the bait, its pointed forward. To make it worse some EWG are even tilted inwards slightly. To come out and hook a fish it has to be pushed vertically where there is no point or sharp edge. I was actually having this discussion with a guy having issues with hook sets using ElaZtech(Zman) baits for the first time at the lake a few weeks ago. He was using EWG hooks and he was having the issue of the very elastic material not letting his skin hooked point rip through. The back of the hook isn't sharp and ElaZtech material is pretty spongy.

These kids now days hehe

Not a hook story but I was cleaning fish with a nice razor sharp fillet knife about 7 or so years ago. Wife called me to come to the kitchen for something. So me covered in fish made a rash decision to stab the knife into the board I was cleaning the fish on. Bad bad idea. My hand covered in fish slid down the handle and blade. Cut my pinky right at the last joint where it bends to the bone. Anyway it barely bled and when opening my hand you could see the bone so plain. It apparently cut what ever pulls to make your finger bend because my pinky doesn't bend there anymore unless I grab it and bend it with my other hand. It has been this way now so long all the normal wrinkles in skin on my knuckles have disappeared. It's just smooth.

I have the Pond Prowler 10ft and at one time I looked it up. I believe (if memory serves) a 5hp was the max the boat was rated for. I would think the very similar boat would probably be the same. In the past I had seen some on YouTube that had some issues with the plastic transom when using a small gas engine as well. It was flexing quite a bit. One guy somewhere maybe in this forum had braced his with metal and again if memory serves said it cured it. I just use aa cheap TM I think it's 45lb might even be less. It's a Walmart job. But I only use mine in small private pools/lakes that the banks are pretty much not accessable. It works awesome though for this. I like the fact I just carry it in my pickup and have no heavy motor to deal with. Getting it to and from the water is much easier. If only that battery would carry itself.

Let me clarify. I don't have a problem with wide gap hooks but by just a standard definition of EWG I meant hooks with the point directly in line with the line tie. I can understand the necessary wide gap in hooks for thicker plastics but I still do not want to have a piece of steel hook directly in front of the tip of my hook. We do all sorts of things to increase hookup ratios with our weedguards just to gain a slight advantage. So this design just goes against my thinking. Maybe it's even a confidence thing. One day about 2 weeks ago I was using a 4/0 EWG on a Paca Craw and had three fish back to back that never got hooked. I changed to a offset design and it was game on. So EWG and me aren't talking for now.