stk44

I bet Fothergill wins by at least 5 pounds. It would have been close if he wouldn’t have got his limit. Edit: I’m also a big fan when they cut to a new scene and there is no sound. I never know if it’s intentional, my device froze, or audio has failed. They definitely are working their issues out, but I know that can’t be easy to manage all those cameras, audio devices, etc. It’s still awesome that we can watch any of this live.

What is going on between the live feed on Bassmaster.com and on Fox? I’m watching Deon Sanders, Zona and Sanders on FOX have the same interview they had on bass live over an hour ago? It’s kinda annoying having to stay tuned into both.

@casts_by_fly if you don’t mind me asking, what is your setup for your electronics battery? I’m trying to figure out how to have a standalone electronics battery that runs to a fuse box. I’m thinking I will connect the battery to a switch, run the switch to a 30 amp breaker, and run that wire to the fuse panel. Do you have a bus bar set up, and if so do you have a positive and negative bus?

Sorry for the confusion. I was thinking I could replace my on/off switch with the switch you sent me a link for. I see now that wouldn’t make sense. I obviously have a lot more to research, but if I understand correctly, I need: - battery -breaker between battery and switch (do you know what kind and how many amps? 20?) -switch -fuse panel Is my thinking correct here: 1. positive lead (8 ga) would go from the positive battery terminal to the battery side of the switch. with a breaker in between the battery and switch 2.power wire for fuse box (10 ga?) would go back to the switch 3. ground wire for fuse box goes back to negative battery terminal thanks for your help

Thanks. I’ve thought about that and that’s a great idea. Now that I have mega live and only 1 10” screen, I won’t have a need for any side imaging that I share from my console unit. I’ll keep the console in standby and see what I can do about the brightness on the bow. The bow graph is flush mounted and I have a tinted graph glass, which might complicate things. Yes that is the one I’m referring to. Hmm, so if I rig it this way, I would have to constantly switch between batteries, right? Maybe i’d better stick with two switches.does it matter if i rig the switch in the battery compartment at the back of the boat or run it all the way up to a rod locker?

Is it possible to have a standalone electronics battery hooked up to the same on/off kill switch that my starting battery is on? I was thinking if I bought a new switch that has the option for both batteries off/on or 1 off, 1 on would work. From there I would run 8 gauge wire up to the starboard side rod locker which would connect to a fuse panel to power my 2 graphs, 5 port switch, and ML1. Does that sound like that would work?

You are saying 5amps for the other accessories to cover an 8-10 hour period of time, right? When I was guesstimating, I thought 1 ah sounded conservative to run all my other accessories.

Do you happen to know, generally speaking, how many amps the “other accessories” draw? The livewell pump is on a timer and the nav lights aren’t on all the time, etc. just wondering how much more I really need? Also I thought I’ve read elsewhere the mega live 1 was more like 1 amp? Thanks again! Wow. That’s way cheaper than I thought. Thanks! Ah okay, got it. I can probably go for the $239 one then. I’ll probably limp by with my current battery until I either A run into issues or B have some time free up where I can install the battery and wire everything the way I want it. thanks!

Thanks for the info. Im not sure I saw an option for a non heated one, but I likely won’t need it. I live in pa and my unheated garage likely will not go below freezing. I think I will go this route soon, but now I gotta figure how to wire everything lol. I’m thinking a perco switch and want to run a fuse panel to the starboard rod locker to run the graphs and ML1.

With the deep discounts on mega live 1 coupled with mega live 2’s lack of compatibility with my helix fish finders, I decided to pull the trigger on a mega live 1. Currently I have an interstate AGM group 31 dual purpose 100aH battery. I will be running everything other than the trolling motor on this battery( 2 helix 10’s, ML1, bilge/auto bilge, nav lights, livewell pumps, etc). Questions #1 is, will this battery be able to handle the accessories for 8-10 hours? Question #2. I’m looking for a separate house battery. Does anyone have affordable lithium battery recommendations? I was looking at the “LiTime 12V 100Ah Self Heating LiFePO4 Lithium Battery”. It’s less than $300, but does anyone know if this is comparable to any of the big names like Dakota or similar? Is there anything I should look for/ start away from in my search? TIA, steve

Honestly my goal this coming year is power poles, then mega live the next year. So realistically I’ll probably be just fine with my helix units for another couple of years. I guess I could technically go apex for my FFS unit and have some networking functionality with the helix units. The helix units are awesome, but my I think processing is a bit delayed and the buttons are a little cumbersome like you mentioned. No real complaints on my end though. It’s still more than I need.

I have two helix 10’s that I picked out for my boat when I bought it 2 years ago. I’m pretty bummed about this. Now I will eventually need to get an xplor unit and will only be able to use it for FFS, when the time comes to get it.

If I’m not mistaken. The 7’3 xh is there flagship frog rod. I’ve heard great things about it.

I agree with you even though I still do not have a dot on my EDC. Now that they are so small, it seems like a no brainer. I’m hoping to get one soon.

What about 3/16 oz weight with a rage punch bug, tube, or senko? Is that still a little overkill?