RandySBreth

Another idea - if you're going to pop that much for one lure you could just buy whatever color Rogue you find the cheapest and send it off to Tim Hughes to paint it however you want.http://www.hughescustombaits.com/page1.htm

I'm thinking (fearing) you're talking about the weedguards coming apart when curing the powder paint. If so, it isn't going to work - always cure in the oven without the weedguards.

Thats funny - I have dozens of different combo's in my storage racks and I can tell you exactly what line/leader is on each one right now. But I rememeber stuff like that.

I have some MH spinning combo's I throw bigger soft swimbaits on - mostly for Stripers though I do it for Bass, too. It's really personal preference. I always throw spinnerbaits and buzzbaits on casting gear, but I use spinning with thin superline/fluoro leader for deep cranking and wonder why I wasn't always doing it.

I've never tipped over except screwing around and playing when not fishing in warm water. I have tipped other people over on purpose, then paddled away as they fumbled around, but that's a different story. I did lose a casting rod/reel combo for the first time last year - kicked it out when jumping out at a riffle while paddling upstream and lost it in the fast water. It wasn't anything expensive (I never carry premium stuff on the river for just that reason) but it still shake my head about that one. Stupid mistake.

Some people love to tinker with stuff, all the time trying crazy things because they have nothing better to do, but some people live by the motto that if it isn't broke...

Backreeling when using a Steez (or even my cheap new Orra S) because maybe sometime something could sort of possibly go wrong is like the guy I knew who was wiring in a override timer on a bypass pump so he wouldn't forget to turn off the switch that bypasses the normal timer - how many hoops of mental masturbation do some people have to jump through when fishing? I sweat little details but I've caught doublel-digit trout on 4-pound leader material with my little supreme's drag just screaming on a run - no black bass is going to do that, even the Smallmouths I love so much. So no - no backreeling.

I love the Bomber 4A - it's pretty new- about 5 or 6 years old. Absolute staple for Smallmouth when they are shallow. I miss the old XS4 (before the EEratic Shad - the XS4 suspended dead level like a Rogue or Husky Jerk, not the nose down of the EEratic Shad like a Megabass). Maybe they'll switch it back now? And the Zell Pop, that's a good one. Oh yeah - there's the Spit 'N' Image - one of the best walk the dog baits no one seems to talk about...

I'm sorry to the other guys but a 40 size reel isn't "HUGE" - it is a size bigger than most bass guys use but it isn't like you're using some giant offshore tuna reel or something.

I don't see the point of a three bladed single spin spennerbait, but the Janns stuff is as good as anything else. If I had to buy pre-made heads I'd buy the better ones from lurepartsonline.com, or what I really like is Northstar Custom baits hidden weight head.

It's just the slack in your line - reel down while lowering your rod until you feel it come tight and bam - sweep set and you're hooked up solid. A bright braid will help with seeing the bite happen, too.

The old "Honey B's" are one of my favorite "finesse" cranks.

Yeah he's right on - for "all around" I'd stick with M instead of MH - especially since you'll be using a superline main line - plenty of power there. You might step down to 15-pound (or less) superline though - cuts through current better.

Love that sound!

Jannsnetcraft or Lurepartsonline has blade size charts in their hard copy catalog. Unless you plan on doing a lot of them or want something you just can't find it won't be worth the price, but I make or customize a ton of spinnerbaits every year.

Unfortunately the XCalibur XS4 were discontinued to make the EErratic Shad, now that's done for, too. I really liked the XS4- like a high end Rogue, but reasonably priced. The XS3 was really good too - one of my best "Finesse" jerks.

The 30 size is perfect - I use the 40 on a couple of heavier rods.

The shortest I use is 6' - it's a light casting rod for topwaters. Longest spinning rod is a 8' medium/light for dropshot or float and fly in winter. Of course, there's a coupl of 9' and 9'6" fly rods I use, too. Most of the time it's around 7' for casting and spinning.

Loc-Tite Super Glue Gel. Everything else is just screwing around with second best.

I have used the Owner Twistlock Finesse with the wire keeper for a 30 degree swim jig mold and they work great. Expensive, but if you want something you pay for it, right?

Owner Dropshot for weedless, any good octopus hook for open water, and my own wire weedgaurd tied on a Gamakatsu B10 Stinger hook for weedless wacky. I never use the spinshot type hooks, instead I use superline mainline tied to a good ball-bearing swivel, then a flouro leader with the hook and weight on it.

Braid and leader - I always use a swivel so why not use a thinner more sensitive main line? No-brainer for me.

Eventually if you are particular enough about tackle you'll get a cheap flytying vise and thread and simple tools- if nothing else you can make your own feathered trebles instead of paying a buck a piece, and in situations like yours you'd just cut off the black on most of them and re-tie with what you want.

Yep - I also use a much thinner skirt on finesse jigs and compact spinnerbaits.

I've using leaders with superlines for more than 10 years. People used to think it was weird or gave me a hard time about it - although now it's becoming the norm. ww2farmer covered the main advantage - being able to use different leaders for different cover and saving the main line - but still getting the sensitivity of the superline.