ejtaylor822

You can definitely paint the rod. To do it right though you really need to take the guides off, paint and re-wrap. Otherwise it will look a little odd depending upon the original color/finish of the blank. To paint the rod scuff it up with a scotch-brite pad to rough up just a little for the paint to adhere too. The Krylon fusion is the best I have found for the $$$.

In most situations for most people - not all, we are all different - a fast action rod is what you want for single hook applications such as spinnerbaits, worming, jigs, etc. For spinnerbaits I prefer a fast action or extra-fast action. The reason being that you want the power of the rod to come into play right away on the hook set. Here is some more information: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/rod-actions-power.html

Couple of things to keep in mind. Inner "sleeving", that is having the extension inside the blank, is the approach I would take. I believe a much more solid union can be made with the extension inside the blank for this kind of work. That is if you are not removing the cork. However, even if the cork is being removed, the inner sleeve is favored with about 4" to 6" internal past where the union occurs. Still easier (for me) to get a good solid tight fit with the extension inside the blank. Second, any modifications that are made to the rod will void any and all warranties from the manufacturer. Just something to keep in mind with upper end rods that have a (limited) lifetime warranty. Thanks, Eddie

Wow! Those are nice as always.

Another vote for the Revo Winch. Had one for over a year now and love it. Nice reel. Eddie

FWIW - and this is solely my experience and opinion. Years ago was at the beach and bought a Mitchell light surf rod combo. I liked the rod and the reel was "metal construction" so thought for the $$$ was a decent setup as I was a total noob. After the third day or so the reel got very "sticky" and rough feeling even though I cleaned it every day. After a week of heavy fishing the drag TOTALLY died. Was so bad that when I got home got to the point could not reel in the line. When got home thought would send in for warranty repair/replace but before doing so thought I would just take a peek in there. Shocked. The drag was a single plate with a flimsy spring and ball-bearing/plastic cup for the click. But more disappointing was that *ALL* the gears were plastic. The only metal was the drive and spool shafts. After seeing that I didn't want it replaced with another one. I was surprised it lasted a week! Not sure if all Mitchell's are like that, but, I will not own another one - reel that is. (the rod on the other hand I stripped down, put on new guides and tip top and paired with a SaltStriker 30 reel and is now and outstanding light surf rod for reds, specs and the occasional pomp.) I agree with others - go with a Pflueger Trion or President.

Yes, fast action with medium to medium-hvy power to rip the lure. Also, go with a low stretch line like braid or fluoro. You will lose a little of the rod's action at the end of the line with mono.

I was having this same discussion recently with a customer. I am a firm believer in that you are only as good as your equipment - to a point.... I have no doubt that given the same lake and conditions, KVD could outfish me with a Jon-boat and a combo from Wal-Mart with me using his boat and the best equipment money can buy (although would like to think he wouldn't out fish me by much....). But, given his skills and the best equipment out there, well, like he's doing (and done) he would be out fishing the best of the best. I say all of that to point out that using the same equipment as KVD will still not make you KVD as I am sure we are already aware. The premium blanks are exceptionally lighter thereby increasing performance and sensitivity - weight is the enemy of performance. They are better made meaning they will last forever and be more reliable. Everyone jumped all over a certain "high-modulous high performance" $100 rod a few years ago. After all, a "high performance" marketed and labeled rod for ~$100 is hard to beat. But, the bottom line is this: there is a reason a rod costs a $100 - period. This is now being proven out as you are now hearing more and more about the $100 "high-modulous high performance" rods snapping like dried twigs. The way the "high performance high modulus rods" are done is that blank mfgrs DECREASE the graphite and added more resins thereby reducing the weight and increasing the "modulus" which lowers the costs due to less graphite. Less weight, higher "modulous" and less costs - great for marketing but not so good for serious fisherman! Reducing the graphite reduces the overall tensile strength of the blank which is just as, or, more important than modulus. The tensile strength is what allows the rod to deform (bend) without breaking. The ~$100 "performance" rods under extreme conditions deform but the fibers fracture and break because they do not have the tensile strength support due to shortcuts or inferior materials during manufacture: less graphite, inferior scrim, etc. Now, as a custom rod builder, I say all of this to point out that upper-end rods like the St. Croix SCV's, NFC, Phenix, etc. all use lots of graphite with a premium scrim - fiberglass, high-quality paper or in NFC's case another layer of woven graphite. High modulus and high tensile (Strain) materials are what make a high-end rod truly high-end. Like Pappa John says: better ingredients make better pizzas. Same is true for fishing rods and the costs are typically reflective of the quality. Yes, the premium blanks and components are that much better. Period. I say that without hesitation or question. Will the additional cost catch more fish? Well, that's up to the person with the rod in their hand. I believe it will. If nothing else the confidence of knowing that you have the best equipment available to you makes a big difference. The choice is ultimately up to you, the consumer, if it is worth it.

Its like playing golf - you can play a round of golf with a putter. But, probably more enjoyable and a lot less trying if you have say a driver, 7 iron and a wedge. You don't need a bag full of clubs - just like you don't need a boat/garage full of rods - but it does have its place if/when needed. Like others have said: three rods covering the spectrum of power and action along with the matching presentations will suit most folks. Also, keep in mind its better to have three top-quality rods than 6, 7, 8, etc. rods that are technique specific but "so-so" quality rods. Buy the best you can afford. Eddie

Here is what I built to get started http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1204259464/0#0 Literally from scrap laying in the garage. I still use it today to wrap rods/blanks that won't fit on my Pac-Bay wrapper - Got it a couple of months ago. Have used the setup in the link for years now for every rod I have ever built with the exception of the last half dozen or so. Be careful, this is addicting!!!! Eddie

Can also try these: http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_16515____SearchResults Although don't buy into the hype about the sensitivity.

Quantum hot sauce grease and oil. All I have ever used. Grease on the gears and mating surfaces and oil everywhere else.

As far as action fast, mod, etc., think of fast action for "single hook" applications - worming, jigs, spinner, etc. where you need to drive that single thick wire hook through your lure and into the fish's mouth. Moderate action for treble lures - cranks, tight-line top-water, swim, etc. where you have multiple hooks/barbs to catch in the fish's mouth. The moderate action aids in getting the lure deeper into the mouth and also during fighting/landing as most treble hook lures are bigger with more mass that makes them easier to throw. The softer action is more forgiving. Here's an article that might help as well: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/rod-actions-power.html Eddie

2x Quality over quantity any and every day. Especially when you consider that one rod can cover many of the same presentations. Three to five rods can cover almost everything for most folks on the water. Tournament fishing is a different story - you need multiple rods with three different lure setups on each one: ie., three medium-hvy power extra-fast action with black, pumkin and chartruese spinner baits until the pattern is found. As they say, if you ain't fishing, you ain't making money and tying on lures ain't fishing

For topwater walk the dog presentations the best action can be imparted with a fast/extra-fast rod. You want a tip that will provide immediate response/action to the lure - a fast actionwill give you that. Don't use fluoro as it will sink and mess up the action pulling the nose down. Go with at least a medium power - the strikes are vicous so you want the power to control the fish that is already on the move-especially near structure. A 7' will work well, but a 6'6" or less will give you less line slap on the water when working the bait.