My preference is the VMC Spin Shot drop shot hooks. I have trouble with the palomar, getting the hook positioned properly, and with the VMC's it's a piece of cake. I like the long, slender, cylindrically shaped weights since they get snagged less often. I tie them on, not relying on their feature that is supposed to grab onto the line and secure them. The fact that the hook is "close to the line" has no detrimental effect on their effectiveness, and in fact I think it makes them more effective since it keeps the attitude of the lure better controlled than using a dropper does. But both can work based on my observations and experience.
A tip if you're using Z-man Elaztec lures, especially the samll Z-Too's, just barely hook them; don;t put the hook way into the lure. I think by barely hooking them it allows them to pivot/float up away from the hook to a head down position, possibly imitating a feeding minnow. Seems more effective that way. They are tough enough so they don't easily come off even when hooked this way.
I don't have a better idea and want to point out that whatever you do, do not allow the tips of the rods to bump into any vertical walls/bulkheads/structure. Tips can easily be broken from such contact when boating through rough water.
It is possible to glue it back in, but might not work. Worth a try; I have one 25mm guide I fixed a few years ago and it's still OK. I used rodbuilding epoxy, but a quality epoxy adhesive from the hardware is worth a try. I don't think you have anything significant to lose by trying. Be sure to keep the ID clean of epoxy. If it hardens in there it can be tough to remove. Use alcohol to clean up uncured epoxy. Most use denatured alcohol.
If the lock nut is spinning then the seat threads underneath it are not attached to the blank. This is the most common failure of "big box store" rods, from my experience. Either the seat or the grip.
An experienced rod builder can most likely fix it by drilling a hole in the seat and injecting structural epoxy to glue the seat to the blank.
There is a product that is said to be for mounting guides, supposedly weaker than tiptop glue. I've used it with limited success. I have found it tricky to get just the right amount onto the foot and then get it in the right place on the blank before it sets. I think if you are managing with the bands then I'd suggest sticking with them.
If it's more than an inch it will be noticeably changed, in my opinion. Replacing just the tiptop will be a noticeable change.
But this procedure does work pretty well in restoring original action. Power will not be affected. Theoretically it will recover a little slower due to the added mass, but I've done it to a number of rods and the owners were pleased with how they fished. I own two of the rods and they work fine, one broken near the tip and one broken farther down. https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/repair-oquinn.html
The problem I see with many "multiple X" trebles is that they are made of such heavy gauge wire that I question how they will penetrate and many don't seem to be very sharp. King salmon and barracuda may need them; bass do not. Since I have the drags on my reels set to probably less than 8 pounds, I don't think I need "multiple X" trebles.
Braided line cannot keep any weight jig from sinking. It's very close to neutrally buoyant. I fish a lot of smallies in clear water with 15 pound braid and 15 pound FC leaders about 5 feet long and have seen no indication of fish being line shy. I could be missing some fish, but don't think many. If you want to go longer, fine, but I think 15 feet is excessive. I would keep the knot out of the reel which would give a leader length of about 8 feet.
The weight of the jig tube is usually dependent on water depth and/or the aggressiveness of the retrieve. I generally find subtle , slow sinking, weights work the best and we get quite a few hits on the fall. The deeper the water the heavier the jig. For depths less than about 8 feet I use 1/8 or 3/16, for deeper fishing 1/4. I don't fish deeper than about 15. If I did I would be using 3/8 more often.
I never add any finish to a factory blank. Like Chris, I will finish a rebuild with Permagloss, a very thin, light, hard but flexible, UV resistant rod finish. For graphite or glass rods it is a much better option than traditional varnish, if that is what you are specifically talking about. It cures very fast, and has a nasty vapor, so you need good ventilation and a special technique. Here is an instruction from one of my rodbuilding friends, one of the most skilled and experienced rodbuilders I know:
"I use a foam cosmetic pad. Pour out some permagloss into a small measuring cup use the foam pad to soak up all the perma gloss. I take the saturated foam pad fold it over the blank and swipe it up and down the blank very quickly, takes less than 30 sec but not more than a minute. I wear nitrile gloves when applying. All you want to do is wet the blank with a very thin coat. I hold the blank in one hand and swipe with the other. Start at the tip and move down to the butt. When finished I just lean it against the wall with just the tip touching. The permagloss will not sag because of the thin coat. If you get sagging you applied to much! Let it set for a 1/2 hour or so and repeat to make sure you have complete coverage. If your humidity is very low (like in Southern Cal) may take a little longer. This works extremely well. Like Tom said, I have found it almost impossible to get a good finish by brushing it on. Instead of a foam cosmetic pad you can cut the foam off of a foam paint brush and use it, this also works very well just more expensive. This process gives a very nice finish that is extremely hard and will never yellow. Hope this helps."
It really doesn't matter that you get the exact tiptop model. Any tiptop of the right size tube and ring, given that it's a good ceramic like Alconite, SIC, or Zirconia, will work just fine. If you replace it yourself make sure you don't apply too much heat to remove the current one. If it's not epoxied on you just put a rubber band through the ring, tension it, apply a little heat and it will slide off when the hot melt is ready. Only takes a few seconds. I don't even use gloves to handle them the heat requirement is so low. If it's epoxied on and doesn't readily slide off, take it to an expert or St Croix. The risk of destroying the blank is very high.
The above is possible. Another possibility would be to cut off the butt cap and insert a tightly fitting piece of blank into the existing one to support it. Liberally covered with epoxy. Then put on a new butt cap. Sounds like only the bottom few inches is affected, so this might be the least disruptive fix.
Size 16 seat and cork grip to your liking. The standard ones will fit the 16 seat.
You will have to ream the cork to fit the blank, and since you are going to put the grip on from the rear, you have the taper of the blank to contend with. What you do is to construct a cylindrical surface of masking tape wrapped onto the blank so that the diameter of the series of tape wraps is constant and such that the grip can be slipped over the tape wraps. At the very end you will have no tape, just the diameter of the blank plus a little. Every two inches or so wrap tape to match the diameter of the butt of the blank. You are constructing a cylindler on which to mount the grip. Dry fit all parts, seat, grip, whatever, to make sure everything fits before you mix your epoxy.
Using a good paste epoxy, mix it , and apply it liberally to all the tape wraps to totally encapsulate them. This will prevent them from deteriorating if water gets in. Slide the cork grip onto the blank, and into the seat. If any epoxy leaks out, clean it off with 90% alcohol, liberally used on a paper towel, before it sets. Once it sets, you cannot get it off.
You're talking about the ring diameter. Others and I thought you were talking about the tube diameter. It will work, just not as well as a smaller one. Extra weight out there slows the recovery of the rod. Might not be noticeable depending on the rod. It certainly will work.
Fish don't break rods, fishermen do. Previous posts have it right. Try this link for info on proper rod handling to prevent breakage. Sounds like that rod is a high quality graphite rod, and if it is, it is more fragile than glass rods and lower tech graphite. Most likely it was designed for sensitivity, not max power. But it will still work fine when properly handled.
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