MickD

Looks like it's designed for a clamp-on motor.

Got it. I don't have a clue. Sorry.

Can you provide a photo of the bow where you want to mount the motor?

I think your best bet is to call customer service at Mudhole.com, Getbitoutdoors.com, Anglersworkshop.com, and any other blank seller. They know what they have and can tell you quickly if they have anything. They have many brands, hard to go through them all on the internet, but their customer service will know right away if they can help.

Really good photo of you and your fishing partner. It says a lot. Your son?

Both Mudhole and Batson (Revelation line) have fine 2 piece blanks, look them over. Then see what your builder comes up with. If he's really good, he will have good suggestions to meet your needs. You need to decide what you want for power, lure weights, action, and some idea of what you're willing to spend for a blank. And you need to communicate this to the builder. With what you've told us, you may be getting into something that will disappoint. Almost any 2 piece 8 foot blank could satisfy what you've stated.

Since I'm unlikely to be able to cast a reel before purchasing I purchase by brand. The Shimano and Daiwa baitcasters I've bought have all been good. I lean a little more towards Daiwa because my recent Daiwas have been great reels at very good prices. There is a brand that I used to buy, but it didn't last well. That brand may be fine now, but with two brands of great reels, why try it again? So I'm down to two brands and now I look for the features/specs that fit my needs. Like weight, size, drag capacity, and line capacity.

Get a reel different than those you already have. In that price range they all are good, but most likely a little different. Then you'll be an expert on all those reels.

My son does this , too, using a regular vest while running and the auto-inflatable when fishing or moving slowly. I have had a couple different inflatables, both Cabela's, and one thing I've noticed is that the the collar design, behind your head, makes some comfortable, and some less so. My rounded collar one is the more comfortable. I don't change anything annually. The only time one went off was when it was in a boat locker and my boat cover leaked allowing a lot of water into the locker. I think the inflatable ones, at least mine do, have a pull string to allow manual firing of the CO2, + the mouth tube. I also like the idea of using a vest type regular vest when out in lonely, cold water. My son kids me that he wants me to always wear a PFD because he doesn't want to waste any fishing time looking for my body. Easier to find if floating.

Yes. 2 pounds over is insignificant. But you can use anything you want-you can use 30 pound braid if you want. You just don't use as much drag as you might have with a more powerful rod, and you don't stress the rod more than about 90 degrees by pointing it more at the fish. The only issue with overstressing the rod by using heavy line is if you also use lures much heavier lures than its rating, and don't carefully lob them. If you try to do snap casts with heavy line and lures, that's when you might break the rod. I missed this blank when looking for one for you. It sounds almost exactly like the Bushido and Loomis rods that I have used for light cranks, and much more, for years. I expect it's very much like the REV IP70ML.

Good to have one in the boat; I have a Leatherman Wave. But it's backup to my regular tools most of which work better for the job they are designed for. Shore fishing might be a different story (one tool advantage) . I agree that the diamond hook sharpener is very good.

A friend's open carry instructor told him the same thing. He said every thug knows the sound of racking a shell in, and all but the most crazy will flee rather than fight. If they do fight, one shot is all it will take. Only problem will be the restoration costs-pretty messy.

If you're using almost any pound test braid with an 8 pound test leader there is no need to use the FG. A double uni is a piece of cake to tie, hard to tie wrong, is reliable, and with the lighter leaders will go through almost any guides cleanly if that is necessary. For some reason, I've never found the popular and "always" successful Crazy Alberto to be reliable. Something I'm doing wrong that I cannot figure out.

A-Jay, regarding your pic. And previous ones of your rod locker. You'd better stop robbing banks. Sooner or later, you're going to get caught> ? A-Jay, are the red ones fairly effective? I've never had much luck on them. My most effective for SMB are the chrome/blue and chrome/shad, Strike King Red Eyes.

I hope I'm not being redundant to other comments, but my comments are: Spicast have the advantage, IMHO, of being able to cast heavier lines well than are open face reels. But my comment does not include any experience with FC or braid on them. Their disadvantage is that you cannot feather the cast to shorten a cast without totally stopping the cast. Can you drive a stick shift car? If yes, you can use one of the new casting reels, like the Daiwa Fuego, which needs very little thumb control with most lures.

I have no experience with the Mudhole composites, but the Bushidos and Revelations are great blanks at a great price. Mudholes may be, also. I'm sure you'll get some comments on them. REV casting rod I'd suggest you take a look at is : Revelation REVS68ML-SBFinesse/Tubes/Small Crankbaits 6'8" 6-12 1/8-3/8 0.44 5 Fast 1.71 ML This is listed by Batson as a spin blank, but blanks don't know what they are going to be built into, and this one looks right. I've not built it. It should be a little crisper, faster action than the Bushido, which I would call a moderate, not a moderate fast.

Just re-read and noticed your 12-15 FC preference. If spin, go with the KLH 20 first guide. If cast, OK with the blank mentioned above. What is ideal for your small crank is the spin option with the 10-15 braid. IMHO. I really think you should, because you can get great Fuji guides for a reasonable price, and these blanks are very affordable, build both. The spin with the 16KLH.

Cast or spin? For spin a terrific rod blank for what you want is also a quite versatile rod, but it really excels at small cranks and is surprisingly affordable for its quality. REVIP70ML-SBInshore / sea trout / 7' 6-12 1/8-3/8 0.390 5.0 M-Fast 1.7oz ML Rainshadow Inshore Popping, action and power are perfect. If you plan to use braid under 15 pound test the Fuji reduction train KLH 16, KLH 8, then KL5.5M is perfect, followed by a couple KB's then KT's to the end. I like size 4 runners for this. If you plan heavier line the go KLH 20, KLH 10, then KL5.5M, followed by the KB's and KT's. But I see no need for going to the heavier line option. I have built a number of these for me and my son. His first reaction to his was "This is really a sensitive rod." But it also loads perfectly for small cranks, and the M-fast action is right for casting the cranks and handling the fish. For cast, I like the the American Tackle Bushido CB68/6-12 Bushido 6'8" Popping/Crankbait 6-12 lb. 1 6'8" 6-12 lb. 1/4 - 5/8 oz. .415" 4.5 1.37 oz. Mod-Fast Medium This is another bargain blank that performs way above its price. It's power and action match a Loomis that I built many years ago. For guides I like the Fuji RV6 first guide, followed by 3 KB's, then KT's to the end. Size as you want, I like 5's for this type of build. Please keep us posted

If the fish want it slow, the chatterbaits easily allow you to give them slow. I've found them very effective in shallow areas for LMB, if the vegetation allows them. I've not found them as effective on SMB.

Buy jigs with a wire bait holder, not a molded lead one. It is about impossible to get a Ned properly placed on a lead bait holder. Also try to stick with fairly light wire hook so you don't lose the Ned material's buoyancy advantage.

Reels no problem IF you shop only from Ebay sellers with 99% favorable ratings. AND if their return policy is agreeable. I have bought a few used reels, and no problems. Look the pics over carefully. Rods are another issue since many fishermen don't understand how easy it is to damage a rod by knocking it into the gunwale or shock it in some other way, so they may not even know themselves that the rod is compromised. Better to simply wait for the sales and buy new.

I have never seen a tiptop with a tube diameter this small, or a blank with a tip this small. Something seems very wrong here. What tool did you use to measure it? I would think that rod would have a tip dia of about 5/64. Looking at Loomis blanks on an old blank catalog the only blank with a tip less than 4/64 is a fly blank. Most are 4.5 or 5. If you cannot get one from Loomis, then one way to build up a tip for a larger tube size is to wrap it with thread to get a larger diameter. It is a good, solid, way to do it. Although if the tip really is this small, it might look a little funny.

If the pike is below about 30 inches you can grab them from over the fish right behind the head. Hold on tight or you may have a hook and a fish in your hand. Above about 30, they are too wide to hold onto, so get under the lower jay and grab through the slits there, making sure to stay clear of the teeth, and the lure. However, a tool to grab the lower jaw is available and not expensive. Much safer, especially for newbies. If you think you may encounter more of them, take a jaw spreader in your pocket or pack. Cheap and so effective in aiding the removal of the lure. https://www.cabelas.com/product/NORMARK-CORP-FISH-GRIPPER-FLOATIN/3178271.uts?productVariantId=6135166&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=BingPLA&WT.z_mc_id1=02231139&rid=20&msclkid=d67a200a5a5c13b5603f7d818153c62f&ds_rl=1252079&gclid=CK7fxMf07OQCFdVIgQodTPIHAA&gclsrc=ds There are many more, do a search for "fish jaw grabber"

Thanks. I wouldn't want a reel with full time anti reverse-rarely, but sometimes I like to back reel when fighting a fish. Often I switch it off to adjust the line, usually to back the lure off the tip if I reeled it up too far. Opening the bail takes a little line, so it jams it into the tiptop more. Releasing the anti reverse is better. Significant mistake, Shimano.

No anti reverse? Or is it anti reverse is always on? I wouldn't want either.