MickD

Exactly! Thread only yes, but not necessarily so for the right adhesive. Especially considering this question was posed for a light power rod. I think it's worth a try based on previously reported success. I personally don't think the weight savings is that important to justify my taking the risk, but that's just my opinion. No data.

Guides are specified by mm, so I think you would want a V type single foot spin guide of size 10. I cannot really see what the finish is, but try to match it. It looks dark, is it black? What color is the ceramic ring? thx

The question posed referred to what many consider to be the epitome of purchased rods, NRX, so the answer was based on that reference. If the question were to be asked what do you consider to be the best value in high performance blanks, or what are the blanks that are at the price point where adding more money doesn't yield much more advantage, the answer would be different. There are some very good blanks out there for less than $100. If one builds on blanks for which the objective power and action numbers are known, he can very well predict what the finished products will be like.

Not having experienced an NRX I can only offer what I consider to be the best blanks out there for power to weight ratio, True Natural Frequency, and a very crisp, clean, feel. They also are smooth, so no troublesome ridges to contend with. I'll bet they are as good as an NRX. #1 = Anglers Resource Point Blanks and #2 = Rainshadow RX10. I have good experience with one Phenix M1, also, but no experience with the rest of their line.

Measure the other two adjacent guides' OD's of the ceramic rings (if they have rings, if not the ID of the wire opening) and select a guide that looks about the same in design but is in between the sizes and wrap it on. It will work. If you can get the data, select by height so that the line through the centers of the guides would form a straight line. Would help if you posted a pic of the first guide and described its finish (SS/black/gold?)

I have heard of using Permagloss to successfully attach guides without thread wraps. https://www.rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,475815,475815#msg-475815 Although, if using Permagloss, one can get a very light wrap with thread because PG is so thin it's almost weightless. Unlike epoxy. Use very good ventilation! But it won't look like epoxy, will look more like old varnished guide wraps on cane fly rods. I respectfully disagree that it's the thread that does the majority of the holding. If this were true one could not adjust the alignment of guides after wrapping and before applying epoxy. But every builder tweaks the alignment on many of the guides before applying epoxy. After epoxy they cannot be moved. The combination of thread and epoxy forms a composite similar to plywood where the strength of the composite is greater than that of either component. If serious, give it a try. If one comes off, the line will hold it so it can be retrieved and then wrapped for more security.

It's not rocket science, and by building your own you get what you prefer. There are thousands of blanks out there, and some are offered with objective descriptions for power and action, something I've never seen on a "built rod." I don't have a single store bought rod that I use, nor does my son, daughter in law, granddaughter or grandson. But I warn you, it may not be as addictive as tying flies, but it's close. Don't expect to save any money. Expect to get better rods.

I have never had a spin or casting reel with drag problems right out of the box. And that is a lot of reels without drag problems.

But the fact is that it was disassembled before any problem was detected. I didn't say that disassembly was part of the problem, I stated that it might be. If it had not been opened we would know without a doubt that improper disassembly and assembly were not an issue. And the warranty issue would be clean.

That's how mine are, with the foot portion just the same material as the rest of the waders, and it doesn't stretch which I think is the problem. Some waders come with integral full boots, so you don't need other boots to go over the foot portion;. Some have stretchie neoprene bottoms with fit into separate boots. I think they would be more comfortable. I have no experience with neoprene or integral boots. Some have integral belts, others you have to have a separate belt, but whatever type you get, use it. A friend of mine pulled a guy out of a fast stream as he was rolling helplessly down the stream with full waters.

This says the reel was disassembled and greased BEFORE it was fished.

I don't think the type of grease has anything to do with it. Is it possible that it was not reassembled correctly? I don't know why people tear apart a new reel that's working properly. I have never had a reel malfunction right out of the box.

I've noticed that noise on one of the three fly rods I've built with the REC guides, snakes, but it is affected by the line. I changed to a different line and I don't get it any more. And not on the two other rods. I see no need for Torzite on a fly rod. Titanium frames with good rings for the first two, then wire guides after that. I think the real advantage in Torzite comes with spinning rods. But that's just one person's opinion.

Make sure you have a belt arrangement of some kind to prevent the wader from filling with water if you go too deep. That can be deadly. I have Gore-Tex waders with what I call "sewn in feet," feet which are the same material as the waders, and they are really uncomfortable. I think the waders with the integral boot feet or neoprene feet would be much more comfortable. Dry plus or Gore Tex are nice since they are so light compared to old rubber ones and they do breath quite well. I don't even know it rubber is made any more, but I would not buy them. Some boot designs, like felt bottoms, are now banned on some streams due to their tendency to spread invasive critters, so make sure you know what you want before buying.

Since rod makers do not objectively specify power and action it's difficult to get what you want. I suggest getting a weight equal to what lures you'll most likely be casting and tie it to a snap so that it can be attached to the tiptop of a rod. Swing your current rod to get a good feel for how it behaves. Then take it to a store with lots of rods for sale and try to find one that feels right with the weight snapped onto the tiptop. The question about handling braid is as others have pointed out-just about all rods can handle braid. The guides most likely will never groove, but an old, cheap tiptop might. But they are easy to replace, so don't worry about it. Just go fishing.

How do I figure out the differences between all the Tatulas listed?

You can stick a Neko weight into one? I can't get one onto a cast jig keeper, only a thin wire keeper. ??

Nope. Only build with Fuji or Alps, SIC or Zirconia rings.

I think that is still true whenever the G L name is mentioned in connection to a rod blank or rod.

I use mostly 4's for running guides using 15 pound test braid and 15 pound teste FC leader with an "improved" Alberto knot. Improved by adding a tightly tied half hitch to the braid tag end up against the knot. Ensures reliability without making the knot larger. For the lines I use a double uni doesn't clear well. If you want to see the difference in recovery speed from deflection between different guide sizes run TNF (True Natural Frequency) on the different combinations. On most blanks you'll find that the reduction guide size/weight has little to no effect, but the running guides do. Lighter the better.

https://anglersresource.net/kr-guide-placement-software/ This software works very well. I don't even test cast any more; it always makes a great rod. One thing you might consider is that if you build with the 20H 10H 5.5M (I've never used the 5.5L) you can go up in reel size and line from any plan that set you up for 16-8-5,5 and it will work just fine with both the lighter and heavier line, smaller or larger reel. The difference in weight is IMO negligible since it is not on the tip. Unless I'm building an ultra light that is unlikely to ever be used with heavier line or bigger reels, I go 20-10-5.5 for its versatility.

NRX is nothing out of the ordinary for good builders. Lots of premium blanks out there that are at least the equivalent, and the details can be whatever the buyer prefers. I personally don't like the grips/seats/handles etc of Loomis. I think my designs are better. And I do not build for anyone other than family and me.

For breaking off a snag which is likely many feet away from the rod? I don't want to lose that much braid when I get snagged. Yes, good braid scissors are necessary when rigging or cutting out snarls, but I'm not about to lose that much braid to a snag. I also don't think it wise to leave a long length of braid in the water where it can get fouled in motor props. This tool is very good, I have a number of them. When rinsed, they don't mind salt water either. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Boomerang_Tool_Company_Snip_Line_Cutter/descpage-BOOMS.html

There will be no damage to the rod or reel. If having to break off a snag just point your rod at the snag, take up line as much as possible, put your finger on the spool to prevent it from turning, and pull to break off. After doing this, make sure the braid has not imbedded on the spool and is free to come off for the next cast. I've never had a cut from braid. Flouro or mono, doesn't matter. I use premium 15 pound flouro fly tippet/leader material because it's stiffer and works best with stuff like blades. If your rod does not have micro guides then use the double uni knot to connect the leader to the braid. Easy peasy and reliable. I suggest buying premium braid, at least 8 fibers instead of the usual 4. You'll pay more, but it lasts for years, so not to worry. Premium 8 (or more) fiber braid casts farther, fewer wind knots, worth the money. do this right and you'll never go back to mono. For anything. Any questions I can help with just message me. Best colors where I fish are Canada Craw and Goby Bryant. Yes, but there it is nowhere near braid for feeling the bite, sensitivity, and long casts for the same pound test. You can cast as far with 20 pound premium braid as you can with 6 pound flouro/mono.

I think that the detailed design work on balance and action are not easily copied. Yes, the exterior is a piece of cake to copy, but I don't think that is as important as what has been done inside. I could be wrong, not being a bait designer or builder, but that is my opinion.