MickD

Permagloss is a fine, thin, light, flexible, finish that will work on the guides and whole rod, but be sure to test it somewhere on the rod to make sure it doesn't attack the current finish. It is pretty hot stuff, lots of vapors, and it will attack some other finishes. It usually doesn't, but you want to be sure. Unless the blank is pretty beaten up, I would only refinish the guides. But Permagloss is a fine finish if the whole blank needs to be brought up to a nice, glossy finish. You have to work fast with it, have it planned out on how you're going to do it, most use a "throwaway" foam brush, and do it with one coat. Do not try to keep going over it as you might with slower curing finishes. https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/refinish.html

Not arbitrary if you use CCS which gives objective power and action numbers. AND Point Blank blanks and Rainshadow RX10's have CCS data published. The more you use it the more you understand about the blanks you are using and considering. It is not difficult to set up one's own set of tools to measure CCS.

If one wants to go with "popping blanks," then there are some great blanks with these characteristics available from Point Blank. Look at the "hard specs" link for the CCS values, and go with AA (action angles) close to 80 degrees. CCS angle, not RDA angle. These are great blanks-I have two and have made two others for my son. Very sensitive and versatile.

Rainshadow Revelations and American Tackle Bushidos are in what I call the "sweet spot" between price and performance. Very sensitive, well performing blanks. Get the length you want in a moderate fast action which will enable easier casting. Look for their "crankbait" actions.

Go with 15 pound test braid. Most sensitive, easier hook sets, so thin the fish probably won't see it (many use braid heavier than this successfully), works best with a moderate action rod. One thing the leader you hate so much provides is a little stretch in the system, which is good with braid as the line. Also, a leader allows you to cut off and retie without losing your main line. Everything is a trade-off. I like the braid + FC or mono leader option. But many make straight braid work.

Very versatile rod, many uses. One can never have too many fishing rods. Sort of like womens' purses and shoes.

Yes. I like longer rods for a number of reasons, but since I build my own, a longer blank allows me to shorten it from the butt if I have to to get the rod I want.

Spoonplugger, it probably happens when the line is slack. But it happens, so what is the solution? I say filling the gap to make a smooth transition.

Another possibility is Sally Hensen nail top coat, available at any store that carries beauty products. It is UV resistant, dries fast, and is pretty thick, so should fill a gap nicely. I've used it for similar little repairs.

It really is not. Dr. Bill Hanneman many years ago developed what he named the "Common Sense System" for objectively rating the power and action of blanks and rods. It was aimed at the time for fly rods, but it is universal and many custom builders have been using it for years. It gives a power number and an action angle which describes the "speed" of the action. Some manufacturers of custom blanks have started using it. One of the biggest, Batson/Rainshadow just introduced a new line of premium blanks and published CCS data on all the blanks. Anglers Resource, distributers of the Point Blank premium blank series publishes CCS data on all their blanks. Pac Bay has published CCS data on some of their blanks. I expect the use of it to continue to grow. It is not difficult to set up the "tools" required for builders and fishermen to measure their own rods, and in time, have a better understanding of this issue. I measure every blank I get my hands on. For more info on it go to https://www.common-cents.info/ The big board described in the literature is ideal, but not necessary. I do not use a big, space consuming board like that, and can show my system to anyone who would like to set theirs up.

It is about impossible to balance a 7' 6" rod, regardless of the reel. If you make the butt long enough to balance it will be way too long for good ergonomics. If one wants a rod to be balanced, better go short rather than long.

The Milliken looks like a pretty good quality rod. The modern ferrules make multi-piece rods behave almost identically to one piece rods. Just a little heavier.

I don't think it will be a problem. I've done similar. Try just a drop in some unobtrusive place. Make sure the wraps are clean and dry and any loose pieces picked off.

Don't assume that the two line stress test is more complicated or harder than the one line test. It is said to be more accurate and it's actually a lot easier than the one line test because the guides are not taking the loading of the rod. Therfore they don't have to be as tightely attached to the rod AND they may be moved without unloading the rod. it is much easier using two lines.

Rule of thumb is the length of the rod + 1 + the tiptop, so a 7 foot rod would have 8 guides and a tiptop. I almost invariably use 9. About 19-21 inches is right for the distance from the line guide of the reel to the first guide. Guides are best located by using the two line stress test as shown on the Anglersresource.net web site. I just did a rod for which the blank maker published a recipe for guide locations, and my locations after the first guide from the tip were quite different. I'll trust my stress test. There are differences of opinion about just about everything in rodbuilding, so develop your own experience using sound basic practices. Lots of good tutorials on line, FlexCoat.com has a bunch.

I am curious about how long they hold on after biting a no-hook lure. Knowing this might help me figure out missed fish, and whether I should slow down on the hook set. Can you describe your experience? thanks

Yes yes yes! Braid less than 15 pound test with a FC leader about 5 feet long will do it. The light braid will cast very well (make sure you fill the spool properly on your spin reel) and facilitate long casts and better hook sets and the FC leader about 10-15 pound test will be nearly invisible) Ned rig, tubes, and white Keitech 3.8 fat swim baits on a 3/16 or 1/4 oz jig (try slow and steady along the bottom and snapping them off the bottom). If they are there, this will work. LONG CASTS. 3.5 inch tubes, usually watermelon, white, or watermelon/candy work well too. Experiment with retrieve from slow drag to hopping. Often with all these lures on long casts the fish will strike on the fall before you even start the retrieve. Yes yes yes!

Double foot for strength in the lower part of the rod where the stresses on the guides are the highest, and single foot for less weight on the top where the stresses are lower. Works fine. The lighter weight out on the rod makes the tip faster in responding from deflections and makes the rod more sensitive.

When I am using my spinning rods I often cast with them. Often very long casts. I seldom just drop the line below the boat. Yes, spinning rods are used for casting. I don't have that problem since I build my own and use CCS objective power measurements.

It is important for rods used for casting that the power be appropriate for the weight of the lure being cast, so that they load properly thus making longer and easier casts. "Light" power rods are useful for casting small cranks and as mentioned above, Neds with light jigs. They can handle big fish if the water is open rather than very weedy. They cannot keep a big fish from diving into the weeds. For light power rods longer is better because the casting distance and hook sets with the short "ultra lights" that many like are really problematic. Longer rods cast farther and give better hook sets.

It's not that complicated. Get rid of the FC and use mono. With just about any knot you want.

There are wires available in multiple packs from Lure Parts Online and Cabelas that work fine. About 3-3.5 inches long, about .030 diamter, I think. I didn't have to cut mine. But they look just like the ones shown in the photo above.

Tokyo rig works great with Keitech 3.8 fat and KVD Perfect Plastics 5 in swimbaits for SMB, LMB, pike, and walleyes. They go through weeds well and just don't get snagged on rocky bottoms. They are a little pricey, but easy to make by buying the wires and coupling them with a bullet weight, a snap, and the hook of your choice. Much cheaper and work just as well.

Yes!

In this situation I leave a few cents to make sure the server knows I didn't forget. I'm lucky to have seldom had fishing guides who were not excellent.