MickD

I don't see the answer here. But no need to go further. Based on my own experience any fish can swim faster than I can reel.

Which makes it an entirely different thing than sharpening a small hook that we are talking about. If they work for anyone, fine, use them. I'm only saying that I have not found them that effective. And they rust.

I respectfully submit my BS detector just went off. I admit I cannot prove it is not wrong.

Up-locking reel seats have a reputation for loosening. I think it depends on the design of the seat more than the position of up-locking because I build almost exclusively up-locking with Fuji DPSSD seats and don't have loosening problems. For custom builders Fuji offers a jam nut which fits their seats and some other brands. Of course it has to go on with the intitial build, cannot be retrofit. For those who are having the problem the solutions offered above will most likely be easy, effective, fixes.

Yes, but it has to be faster than 20mph. I guess there are no data. We are all just "guesstimating."

That yellow-handled thing is about useless, IMHO, and I find the diamond dust devices so much more effective. But yes, hooks can be "repointed," and should be repointed to be so sharp that when pulled across the thumb nail, they dig rather than slide.

Some factory rods I've gotten into used cardboard as a shim between the seat and the blank. Lack of sufficient epoxy is high on the "failure list" too, as you say. And not just on cheap rods. One thing one can expect from buying a custom rod is that its structural integrity most likely will be bullet proof.

Got good, technical, data? I have a hard time believing that bass and pike can burst no faster than I can ride my bike.

I respectfully submit that the original post mentioned the line coming off the spool looking like a slinky when slack. If the line were not twisted, especially being 4 pound test, it would not come off in that manner. None of us can be certain, and it could be a combination of problems, but there is strong evidence to suggest twisted line.

I don't think anyone can reel faster than any fish can swim. Except maybe for big catfish or carp. I had a couple hybrid bluegills in my decorative pond and when they would feed they would come out from under the lily pads so fast they basically couldn't be seen. Just a flash and a splash. And predator fish can catch them. The initial runs of all the sport fish I've caught, I believe, are faster than anyone can reel. I've seen smallmouth bass "zooming" after tiny minnows, and they are just a streak across the water.

Flouro line and leader has a higher specific gravity than water, therefore it sinks and with some surface lures, it will adversely affect the action of the lure, tending to pull it under. On my surface outfits I only use mono, either as line or leader on braid main line. Braid and mono, except for Gore fiber braids, have about the same specific gravity as water and don't sink like flouro.

I don't know if all line labels are oriented the same way , or if all spin reels rotate the same way, so when I put line onto a spin reel I have it come off the end of the line spool counter clockwise if the reel rotates clockwise. Vice versa if the reel rotates oopposite. Because every rotation of the reel rotor puts one twist into the line. Having it come off opposite takes that twist out. A couple reservations. Some reels say you should just feed it on from a rotating spool because the reel has a design that prevents twist. I don't know if that is true, seems like it is contradictory to simple physics, but that's what's in some of my reels' instructions. Also, as the reel source spools are most often larger in diameter than the reel spool, I believe the process will not ensure zero twist, just less twist than feeding it from a rotating source spool. Regardless of what technique is used, dragging the line behind a boat for a few minutes will take any twist out. Excessive use of the drag will add twist since the rotor is not rotating. I don't see the fundamental reason why manual closing of the bail prevents twist more than letting the reel close it. I manually close it to minimize wear and tear on the bail mechanism and because it is smoother and quieter to do it that way. I would appreciate someone clarify what physics is at work that makes one way better than the other for line twist. I also don't see what there could be about your new reel that would make me suspect it is a problem. I believe the installation of the line was done wrong. You have some sort of line problem, not a reel problem. Since the line is only 4 pound test it should be limp enough to work well even if it's flourocarbon, but most likely it's mono. And should work fine if not twisted.

Agree with snaps. I've had trouble with loop knots not taking impact very well. Could be they mostly have been made with FC, probably less a problem with mono.

About once a week.

As the title says, . . . I cannot find much ammo, no primers or Hornady .224 V max bullets. Can anyone help?

This company is a great company, and probably can accomodate you without spending a fortune. Give them a call and discuss what you are trying to accomplish. Please tell them you were referred by a member of the Michigan Rodbuilders. I have a sticker I use on all my rods that they helped me with, and many other builders will endorse them as a quality company. https://decalconnection.com/

In addition to what A-Jay recommends, there is a little metallic green in there, probably kristal flash (fly tying flash material) , lime green or green?

Ghoti, how does your first rod compare to those you are building today? My current rods are much different from my first, in so many ways.

I always trim the weed guards. They are way too aggressive. It doesn't take much to deflect a weed.

Saginaw Bay and Lake St Clair, Rapala DT series, which one depends on depth, Strike King and Keitech swim baits in white, Strike King (3.5 in.) Coffee tubes, Ned rig. Best colors are green, green, and green (with red flake on the soft stuff except swim baits)

All that's required are years of study and experience that allow one to predict the outcome, to not do some of the stupid proposals one sees on forums, the knowledge of what guides to use, where to put them, where to put the reel seat, what materials will work and which will not, the ability to handle micro guides and get them wrapped solidly to the rod, the fitting of components, good epoxy technique, the concentric reaming of cork and other materials, selecting the right blank characteristics for the technique a person wants a rod for, keeping current on new processes and materials. Pretty simple.

Smallies have better grammar. Sounds like a largemouth. ?

It is my opinion that the difference between the whopper plopper and a buzz bait are minimal. Fish bite from instinct. I expect both of these lures and the old Jitterbug are all the same thing to the fish. But what do I know? I'm not a fish. I expect if one has not taken a smallie any of these lures it's because the lure wasn't used when fish were hitting surface and the fisherman didn't think the lure would work. So he did not try it.

With regard to pound test rating inaccuracy Hitena advertises that their pound test ratings are correct, for their lines and leader materials. I have not tested them, but based on their overall quality reputation I expect they are correct. or close.

I have found line counter reels very helpful in trolling for salmon, getting the lure into the effective zone repeatedly once it's determined. This is not down rigger trolling, but just trolling a diving lure. I would expect that for vertical jigging they would be very valuable.