MickD

Like at least one other poster, I won't buy a reel without an anti reverse switch. I have two Tatula LT's and one Fuego LT and all three work perfectly. I just don't know what more I could ask of a reel. I'm beginning to fall in love with really light reels. Put them onto a 3.6-4 oz rod, and it's a great system.

I have to admit, I never thought about the direction of spin. If most spinners spin in the "standard direction," (which direction is that when viewed from the rear? Is it the same in the northern and southern hemispheres? ) how do I make spinners that spin opposite? Learn something every day!

I've not bent a lot of guides in that way, a few, and the wraps have never come loose. On single foot guides I use a locking loop finish on the wrap which may make a difference. On bending a guide that seems like the highest stress point on the wrap. There are experts who maintain there is no difference; I think they are wrong. Regardless, for the way I treat my rods, and for those I've built for, regular thread with CP works just fine. And of course, without CP will work fine if you can get the color you want.

Yes, without CP it's a lot stronger, but I don't think the bonding strength we are talking about is a significant issue since epoxy over CP is plenty strong. I almost always use CP and have never had an epoxy/thread/guide failure because of my choice. The real question to be answered, in my opinion, is what color effect is desired. The only way to see exactly what will happen with regular thread without CP is to do real test wraps on a similarly colored blank section, finish them, and see what it looks like. Short of doing that, one really cannot predict it accurately.

I have to admit to having used too much heat in the past. Before I got smart. I now use very little. If any.

There is a lot of debate about whether CP weakens the joint between the thread/guide and the blank. It is logical that it would since the way it works is to prevent the penetration of the thread by the epoxy. From my experience in removing guides and wraps done both ways, it is definitely stronger if CP is not used. BUT, a very big BUT, guides wrapped with CP on the threads are plenty well attached, and there is no reason to not do CP because you are worried about strength. I have not done a build without CP in a long time, and I do not have any problems with guides moving. As stated before, I do use the Forhan locking wrap on single foot guides. (I don't do the blocking wraps, don't think they are needed, it's the loops around the guide that are most important).

Not sure whether pics on a computer would be good enough, also, with all the colors the question is not easily answered. Lighter colors tend to go translucent and get a little lighter. Darker colors tend also to go a little translucent, but change tone and get darker. Best way to figure it out is to take the colors you think you might use and do some test wraps on an old blank which is about the same color as the one you plan to use, then wet the wraps with alcohol. It will be fairly close. One example of one that I like is Gudbrod garnet, a dark red. Similar to Pro Wrap Merlot. It turns into a color resembling ripe sweet cherries. No CP threads have a chalk or something in them that allows them to retain color without CP, but they just don't have the sheen that regular thread with CP has. I think your best bet is to choose your color that you want from regular threads and use CP. I put on a lot on the first coat, let it set a couple minutes then blot the excess off. Let it dry and then do another thinner coat. If you do it right one coat should do, but I do two just to be sure. Make sure you see it capillary into the tunnels as you apply it, and keep applying it until it doesn't capillary into the tunnel any more.

Would be much more helpful if St Croix would simply publish CCS numbers.

It depends on what caused the crack. If it's just bad cork it can be filled and probably won't grow. But if it's caused because the fit of the cork to the blank was too tight then the cork remains under tension and the crack will grow. I don't think there is a way of confidently knowing. Probably best to return it.

Winding checks are used to provide a finished look at the end of a grip. but they are not necessary, it's all cosmetic. Epoxy ramps are used to provide a smooth transition between the front of the seat and the blank. I think you plan to use a thread cover over the reel seat threads, if so, then nothing else is necessary. If you look at my photo carefully you'll notice that I do up-locking seats, which put the threads at the bottom. I use a small ramp, not epoxy, but often cork or polurethane reel seat arbors "machined" to what I want off the front of the reel seat hood. Nice transition to the blank, but not absolutely necessary.

The 17 size in that seat is not big, but does fit the hand well. On another forum the moderator, one of the experts in ergonomics of fishing rods, uses sizes 18-20 in pipe seats. I assure you that you can order just the 17 and be pleased. 'and you won't have a 16 to get rid of. An idea to give you some confidence: measure the distance from your thumb tip to your pinkie tip with the hand opened as far as you can. Mine is 9 inches. Unless yours is significantly less than that, a 17 will serve you better than a 16.

I didn't answer your question about machining cork rings. They can easily be machined on a drill press with a cheap, easy, "jig" that stabilizes the lower end of a mandrel on which the cork components are mounted. If you need details message me and I'll send the details.

Having had troubles with braid on my baitcaster I switched to Suffix Elite mono, 14 pound test, and it casts wonderfully and doesn't seem too stretchy for hard jerks. Rod is a Point Blank XF action. I have never been able to make FC work well on BC, and would not take a chance on expensive FC that could easily fail with the first backlash. Just too fragile. I know it works for many, but not for me.

I strongly recommend going with a size 17 seat for better ergonomics-I NEVER use size 16 any more, even on ultralights. If you change to 17 make sure that any other parts that are specific to seat size are changed. I have quantified the advantage of a titanium tiptop vs stainless on true natural frequency on a different blank and it was measurable but small. You would never be able to feel the difference. But if you want to do the absolute lightest you can do and the cost doesn't scare you, go for it. I alway use 2 KB's on spin just to be on the safe side, don't feel that 3 KB's or even more on cast would be overkill. With cast I use the RV 6 for the first guide, then KB's and KT's all the same size to the tip, usually 5.5 on cast. With cast I figure I'll be using heavier leaders if using braid (which I'm getting away from to get better casting quality with mono-without leader knots one can go as small as he wants if icing is not an issue) Are you familiar with the Forhan locking loop for single foot guides? Makes sense for these small guides and only takes a few seconds more per wrap. I always use it for all single foot guides.

During the first year or so of the Ned up here in MI many said it was a dink technique. I argued that the Ned caught fish of all sizes and there were more dinks than hunks. Sure enough, the sentiment has changed and now the Ned is recognized as an effective technique for big smallies as well as small.

I notice most if not all who are not doing well with finesse are largemouth fishermen. Those of us who concentrate on smallmouth know that finesse is not a "dink" technique. My third best smallmouth, over 6 pounds , was taken on a Ned. If you largmouth fishermen have not tried tubes, you probably should. Up here in MI largemouths love them.

I will not fish all day when things are not working out well without completely stopping about mid-day, grabbing a sandwich, and thinking calmly and deeply into where I've been, what has not worked, why it probably didn't, and what options I have for the rest of the day.

Most suggest 1/2 size higher on tip-top. but if the one you have is a little too tight you often can gain a little room by sticking a bodkin or ice pick down its throat and working it around. If there are any burrs or local tight spots it most likely will get it to slide on . Do not sand the tip. I think Torzite is overkill. I've never grooved a SIC. While they are great tiptops, even the titanium SIC is pretty pricey. I use LG or the Arowana in SIC. but it's your rod. Yes on the BIC lighter, but just use the edge of the flame near the blank as you rotate the blank. You don't want to get the epoxy really hot and you don't want any soot to form. Mix your epoxy, warmed a little by submerging the bottoms of the bottles in hot water in the sink until they feel warm, for 120 seconds, making sure to incorporate all the epoxy into the mix. Take it from the center as any not mixed well will be at the edge. Size 4 guides will pass what you propose, even if you have to use an Alberto. If you use an Alberto finish it by really pulling it really tight and adding two half hitches of the braid tag end and pull them tight. I find this Alberto more reliable than the LG, but if you can do a reliable FG, it is the smallest knot. Since most of the contact of the hand will be on the seat you don't need much of any fore or rear grips. I just use one inch custom turned ramps off the seat, then a butt knob on the butt end. I turn my own from cork rings. I think that seat "kit" you are using is designed to be up-locking with the nut covering the threads?? If yes, no front grip is necessary. A minimal rear grip can be used, mostly just for looks since there is not much hand contact there anyway. Go to the Anglersresource.net for guide help. I use exactly what you are proposing for guide sizes, KLH 20-10-5.5M, two KB4's , then 4 KT4's on 7 foot rods. Many builders only use 3 KT's, but for a very fast tip I like an extra one. The titanium tiptop might make a slight difference in tip response time. Titanium runners will have a measurable effect on the true natural frequency of the rod (yes I've tested it) but not a major effect. I've made a lot of rods with stainless steel running guides and they work just fine. Using titanium reduction guides on this EXFast action blank probably will have no effect on frequency because the butt section is so stiff. The minor weight penalty probably will not be noticeable. The site has a tutorial on a two line stress test. Use it. A two line test actually is easier than a one line test as the guides do not have to take the stress of loading the blank and they can be moved without unloading the rod. I place my first guide 19 inches from the tip of the reel spool shaft, use the calculated spacing of the three reduction guides found on the KR software on the site, then use the two line stress test to locate the runners. If you have trouble holding the tiny KT's while wrapping, come on back and ask for tips. I put my keepers an inch or inch and a half in front of the front grip/reel seat on the bottom and have had no troubles with line snagging on them. Do not put it on top or at 90 degrees. I know those positons don't work well. If you are using black thread it doesn't have to be NOCP. Regular nylon or polyester will work fine and will have a little more sheen than NOCP. I don't think Fuji offers titanium alconite guides any more-you have to go SIC to get titanium. If I were you I would use stainless all the way. I should point out that the KLH 20 is so high (that's why it works so well) that it won't fit in some round travel rod tubes. There is a good one that has a triangular section that I use that can hold two spin rods and two fly rods. It is by Temple Fork Outfitters and comes in two lengths. You may have seen the photo before, but I include it to show how I do this rod and other similar spin rods.

In my experience if it says St Croix on it , it will be of good quality. Regardless of where their stuff is made, they don't put out junk.

I have found the best way to get AA is to buy an electronic level, not expensive, easy to use, just line it up with the "indicator" recommended by the CCS process. Or you can get a level app for your cell phone. Most are free. I am surprised that a MH rod is only 20.3 ERN. https://www.amazon.com/Protractor-Inclinometer-Magnetic-Horizontal-Backlight/dp/B08HN47DJZ/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3EHI7CDEHEMAE&keywords=electronic+level&qid=1641002983&sprefix=electronic+level%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-12

I use both, no problems, just seems natural either way. I would suggest just sticking with it and it will come.

3.8 in Keitech swim bait in April, 4 feet of water, close second silver blade bait in November, 20 feet of water.

Try to find a medium power rod with high reduction guides, like Fuji KLH or Microwave. But not to worry, just about anything will work with the right line, like 10-15 pound braid. I use a Stradic 4000 all the time with medium power 7 foot rods, works fine.

The numbers I gave are for my SB841-3. 19.1-82 I would rather have an 82 for tubes than a 70. My son uses a 65 and is pleased. There is a lot of personal preference, but generally people like tube rods described as fast. And I find most rods described as fast are about 75 degrees. My tube fishing is on big water and long casts are important, so to me the power of the rod has to be consistent with the weight of the lure which means the rod will load well and make long casts easily. For tubes that I most often use the power of about 17-19 is about right, and for that power a lively tip feels good, feels sensitive to the subtle bites, and that means most likely an AA of 75-80. Remember that for two rods of the same power the faster action rod will have the softer tip. Notice that ETES72M in the RX10 chart. That is one of the few rods where my data and the published data disagree, and I am very confident of the AA that I measured for my ETES72M and I got 80 degrees. I also found it more powerful than 466 grams by about 7%. It fishes like my numbers. I normally have correlated well with Rainshadow data. Rest assured that the ETES72M is at least a fast action, and it fishes tubes very well. It has a high true natural frequency, but is not the highest I've measured. (It is fair to point out that if I erred and deflected the rod more than 33% of its length both the power and AA that I got would be high.) I have no idea why the RX10 chart shows rods described inconsistently with the numbers. I would go with the numbers. But again, the NFC chart has the same inconsistencies.

Spinning for light stuff, (tubes, drop shot, Ned, small cranks, blades, wacky) BC for heavier (cranks about 3/8 oz and above, spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, hard jerks).