MickD

I believe that "5 power" is an older power designation that does indicate pretty heavy power, although I don't know if it's based on actual measurements or on opinions, as most power ratings (M-H-MH-H) are. Not every brand's H is the same power. The only objective power rating system is CCS, I believe. https://www.common-cents.info/ It measures the weight that it takes to deflect the blank/rod to 1/3 its length. Many of us builders use it to select blanks to build that meet our power (and action) requirements, once we have become familiar with it and many of the popular blanks. A few blank manufacturers are starting to publish the CCS numbers for their blanks, Point Blank, Rainshadow Eternity RX10, and NFC to name the ones I know about. I have never seen a CCS rating published by a rod manufacturer. CCS measures power and action objectively, but does not measure anything relative to sensitivity or response/recovery time. But I have a simple, inexpensive, process for that, if anyone is interested in measuring recovery time, true natural frequency (TNF).. PM me for a tutorial. (It requires an Android phone/Kindle/tablet + a free app). This number is a power description, not an action description. But whether power (L-M-H etc) or action (slow-moderate-fast-etc), they are very imprecise with not all makers rating the blanks/rods the same. A recent example on another forum has a blank described as M, MH, and H by 3 different people.

Very true, but I wanted to point out that there is a performance cost for those footballs some builders seem to like. It can be measured. I have a process for measuring the true natural frequency (TNF) of a blank or rod that shows the difference in frequency between KT4 stainless and KT4 titaniums. Titaniums degrade the natural frequency less than stainless guides do, resulting in a faster recovery time for the rod. The process shows that some premium blanks have higher natural frequencies than others, often by a significant margin. The process can show whether a specific guide set or tiiptop affects TNF more or less than another. When a builder is going for the ultimate, little differences can become significant. The process is possible with miniumal equipment, the most important is an Android phone, Kindle, or tablet plus a free app. The butt has to be restrained, but forces are low, deflections minor; meaning it is safe and doesn't risk damage to the blank. It no longer takes expensive equipment to measure the response time of blanks and rods. Many believe that sensitivity is proportional to true natural frequency. It has been argued for years that sensitivity is proportional to stiffness to weight ratio, and TNF is a measure of stiffness to weight ratio. If true, and I think it generally is, then there is a method of actually measuring the value of different components in maintaining the sensitivity of the blank through the build. TNF clearly directly measures recovery time. Anyone wishing to get the details on the process may PM me and I'll send a short, simple , tutorial.

575-600 grams. Response time of the rod is part of performance. With all due respect for your expertise, I invite you to show us your objective data supporting this statement. The variability of epoxy covered wraps is vast. There is definitely an advantage in response time of the rod with having a wrap covered in Permagloss vs a football of epoxy times 4-6 guides on a light tip of an Xfast action rod built on a premium blank. Built on an old Ugli Stick, no, but on a new premium blank, yes. The OP asked for how to attain the ultimate. Unless something like Permagloss is used on the wraps, it will not be the ultimate.

Relative to blank weight, I have never found a discrepancy in the weight of a graphite rod blank, actual vs claimed weight. I'm not a high volume builder, but over the years I've totaled quite a few. The only discrepancy has been with a glass blank which weighed 2.3 oz vs a claimed weight of 2.0. There is no logical reason why weights should vary much since the material that goes into the blank is carefully prepared, measured, cut, and then processed.

Yes, and not finishing with epoxy, which is heavier than Permagloss, although the difference is slight and the appearance is different. But, if going for the absolute lightest. . . My Point Blank 701MLF has an ERN of 19.8. Recently a person with NFC stated he was talking about an ERN of 19-21 when he mentioned MH power. So you can see the difference in interpretation when you don't use objective measures. I think my St Croix SCV70MF is less than 19, and it's called M power.

To have a rod that really doesn't make too many ergonomic compromises AND actually has what most would consider ML power (unless one uses CCS ERN or IP the power is a guessing game, open to interpretation) the rod probably will probably come in at about 3 oz. A 1.2 oz blank of 7 foot length is not going to have real ML power. I believe about 1.5-1.6 is more like it. I won't compromise ergonomics in order to achieve even 3 oz; with full size 17 reel seats I get about 3.6 for 7 foot ML or M power (premium blanks/titanium guides), and they fish comfortably all day long. Not yet mentioned are the guide wraps. They should be no longer than just past the foot of the guide and Permagloss or similar light finish will cut the weight of the wraps. It can be significant to the response of the finished rod.

At the same power level this is definitely true, has to be. Very good description of Xfast, IMHO. At the lower power levels the tip can feel a little sloppy. I really like longer rods in Xfast action. They are very versatile, casting well a larger range of lure weights.

I didn't record anything until about 6-8 years ago, and have recorded significant data from all trips since. I'm really glad I did because it really helps on getting to the right spot on the right date, and knowing what worked. Significant data are all the things I think at the time important: time started , hours fished, spots fished , techniques, lures that worked, water temp, wind, climate conditions, water clarity.

Permaglass cures from water vapor in the air, I believe. I'm not sure how it would do inside a grip. But it really isn't designed to be an adhesive, so it may not even work effectively as one.

For the life of me I cannot see how coating something that is not transparent with something that is transparent makes the whole thing transparent. I think FC coated lines are a worthless gimmick. Sort of like calling a raincoat "titanium." I'm confident I'll get corrected quickly.

Everyone has an opinion, few have data.

Green just seems to be a very effective smallie color-watermelon/red tubes and Ned, watermelon/candy tubes, Ikes Smash DT's, olive wooly buggers, one of the best smallie flies ever, I always find green works well on smallies.

No mention of Ned rig yet, should be part of your arsenal. For LMB I like Junebug, for SMB Canada Craw. For smallies be sure to have some green in everything you buy.

It is my opinion that all FC's stretch a lot more than most fishermen think. Go with the FC that fishes the best. Stretch will take care of itself.

Buy a few Rapala DT's in the depth numbers that match the depths you most likely will be fishing. If there are bluegills in the lake, get that color. The best all around color I've found is the Ike's custom color "Smash," works for everything.

Me too. Never my fault. Always the fault of the fishes. Or the water temp. Or the atmospheric pressure. Or the cloudy water. Or the clear water.

Of course. Which is why I am going to force myself this year, in the middle of a tough day, to stop fishing and think. Think about what I have not tried, what could be effective, where I have not tried, etc etc etc. We have to slow down and do some thinking to be most effective.

My son and I were fishing on a hazy warm afternoon, no sign of any weather problems, when I noticed my line not drooping into the water, but it was going up into the air then entering the water vertically. I raised my graphite rod to try to figure out what was happening, and when I raised it really high we could hear a sizzle. My son raised his and got the same thing. We took off immediately, leaving the water. In a few minutes a thunderstorm struck. We came very close to being struck by lightning. I'm sure you've seen what lightning does to graphite rods.

It's really hard to evaluate what works for others, especially considering that the power and action ratings vary so much, even within one company's product line. But from what I think I know about St Croix, if the rod's lure weight recommendations fit what you plan to cast, it should work OK. But the best thing is to try it. If it works, fine. If it doesn't , use it for another technique that is a better fit.

Keep in mind that the new Shimano reels, as with many other brands , do not have anti reverse switches any more. If you want a switch, look elsewhere.

thanks!

I use 15 or less for braid, (or Hitena 20 which casts like most 10's) 14 pound fly tippet FC for leader. I find anything less than 10# leader to be too fragile. I've not found any techique or water clarity that requires me to go lighter. I'll be looking to make sure I'm not wrong, but so far. . .

Don't go beyond 90 degrees and you won't break anything unless you've whacked it onto the boat or somehow damaged it. I don't flip fish into the boat, so I don't have that risk. Usually the most fragile rods are the highest modulus/most expensive rods. I only own two MH or H power rods and only use them for trying for the rare muskie now and then. I've never broken a rod on a fish, only by stepping on them.

When do you think your soft water season will start? I'm thinking mid April for Sag Bay.

I see you have been robbing banks again, A-Jay.