MickD

Can you tell if the thumb bar is coming back up properly, all the way up, when you start the retrieve cranking? If not, the "linkage" that makes that happen could be worn and not giving full travel. And look to see if you can figure out how the thumb bar disengages the reel when pressed, see if the "linkage" that makes that happen is positioned properly, working properly, not worn. On some reels how this all happens is pretty obvious and troubleshooting is pretty easy. You just have to get into it in detail.

You may be surprised that your apparently joking comment is most likely true. I have tested many blanks and rods of all price points and have found that the true natural frequency (TNF) is generally higher on the higher priced "premium" blanks and rods. Most experts believe that sensitivity is proportional to true natural frequency. One thing that is obvious is that the higher the TNF, the faster the recovery from deflection.

About 6 feet, mono or FC. Easiest, most reliable knot, IMHO, is the double uni, easy to tie, hard to screw up, but it's a little on the large side so may not clear guides well with heavy leaders or really small guides. I use the Alberto with the braid tag tied tightly onto the end of the finished tightly set knot with two overhand knots to prevent unravelling. Quite small and very reliable, not difficult to tie with a little practice. I think that really long lengths of leader don't make a lot of sense. If one is going that long why not just use mono or FC for the main line? The FG is clearly the smallest knot, and tied correctly, can be very strong, but many have trouble learning it and tying it reliably. Some suspect that some braid coatings can affect the knot. I have used it, but had too many "phantom failures."

Some rods transmit those axial forces better (so that they can be felt) than others. Compare an old Ugli Stick to a modern graphite rod. Most rod experts for many years have believed that sensitivity of the rod is proportional to the stiffness to weight ratio.

Always do a "dry assembly" assembling all parts together without epoxy, EVERY piece including winding checks if you use them, before even starting to mix your epoxy. Have everything laid out logically. Have paper towels and alcohol handy for clean up of the epoxy immediately after glueing parts, going over it a number of times to ensure you have it all. Be careful of tracking epoxy onto the blank away from the seat/grips area. Once epoxy cures it is about impossible to get it off without damaging the blank or grip parts.

I submit they are not the same power or their action descriptions are wrong or your impressions of tip stiffnes are being misled by the sloppy feel of one rod. But without subjective measurements, there is no way to truly understand. Here is a good place to start: https://www.common-cents.info/

How do you know? Because they are labeled the same, or because you have measured their power? Study hot shot rods.

I respectfully submit that you are wrong. I hope newbies to the subject study it well enough to understand what they are getting. Unless they are using an objective measurement system like CCS they won't know because, as you say, not all the subjective descriptors are the same. But you are misleading less knowledgeable people. Some Extra fast action rods of lower power ratings have tips that are actually what most would call "sloppy." I think you need to study what are called "hot shot" rods. They are really EXTRA FAST actions, bending only in the last few inches of the rod. I doubt if you can find faster action rods by your definition of fast action and mine, which are the same. But the tips are super soft, very easily moved by the hot shot lures that they were designed to fish. Just because the action is fast does not mean the tip is stiff. Faster refers to action. Stiffer tip refers to power. So you are talking both action and power, equating the two. They are not the same. Action is where the rod bends, power is how much force it takes to bend it.

Agreed. But your other point is wrong. Most likely because the blanks are not almost identical in power, or are mislabled. All mh's are not the same. Just recently on another forum we had been discussing a CCS ERN (effective rod number, a measure of power) of 21 and one builder called it MH, another M, and a Fuji blank with an ERN of 20 is called ML. You talk about a "moderate fast tip." Action is for the whole rod. A rod that is "moderate fast action" is a rod that is moderate fast, not a tip that is moderate fast. I still would like to hear your definition of "tip action." It might help us clarify what we are talking about. Please define "tip action."

I didn't say one will be more sensitive than the other. I said if they have the same power the one with the faster action will have the softer tip. Power is defined as the weight it takes to deflect a certain amount, with CCS it is the weight it takes to deflect 1/3 the length of the blank/rod. If they deflect the same distance with the same weight, they have the same power. And the faster action blank, the one that starts its bend farther up the blank/rod rather than bending over more of the length of the rod, will have to have the softer, less stiff , tip. It can be no other way. What is your definition of "tip action?" I think you may be confusing action and power.

I agree that polyurethane is the best answer, but I don't agree that all masking tape arbors are destined to fail. I recently took apart a rod I made decades ago and the masking tape arbor was still in fine shape. I have always wrapped them very tightly so they feel rock hard, and always totally encapsulate them in epoxy. The failures I've repaired have either been cardboard arbors, called boxboard by the recyclers, or factory rods that didn't use nearly enough epoxy. Keep the surface prep issue in mind, too. https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/waterfree.html Keep in mind too that if you do the gluing of the seat to grip properly no water will be getting into the arbor even if it's not totally encapsulated. But it's good advice to use polyurethane whenever you can, IMHO.

If two rods have the same power the one with the XFast action will have a softer tip than the one with the fast action. It could be that the XFast is not transmitting as much force to the hand as the Fast. IF they are the same power. But I use both Fast and XFast rods of about the same power for finesse and I've not noticed a trend that the XFast is less sensitive. What you could be sensing is a difference in material/design of the two rods. I don't know the rods you are using, so don't know if there is a basic material difference. Tough call. Most experts have for years thought that sensitivity is proportional to stiffness to weight ratio. Is there a significant difference in this between the two rods? I presume you are using the same lines, or lines with the same characteristics. There is a huge difference between braid and other lines (mono/FC/Hybrids) for sensitivity.

Get spot lock or a version of it and power deploy and stow. Then you can operate it from anywhere on the boat and as you age, you'll appreciate the power deploy and stow even more.

I only use masking tape when the wall thickness of a polyurethane arbout would get too small. I don't use dry wall tape (too messy, hard to handle), and don't use the black Fuji hard graphite because they are difficult for me to get to the size I need. The white/ivory colored rigid polyurethane arbors are very light, easy to ream, and work great. I usually will use two of about 1 1/2 inch length on a seat. Use liberal epoxy to assure a lifetime bond. If using masking tape totally encapsulate the tape arbor so it will not deteriorate if water gets in. I have even used them for ramps off the ends of spin seats and with a couple coats of wrapy epoxy on them, they have lasted fine. There is nothing that works so well and is as light.

Rapala also makes a nice, light, hooded, pullover shirt, very nice for hot weather. https://www.rapala.com/rapala/clothing/t-shirts-and-long-sleeve-t-shirts/rapala-performance-hood-pattern-grey-camo/Rapala+Performance+Hood+Pattern+Grey+Camo.html?cgid=rapala-clothing-tShirts&taglist=Rapala|Clothing|T-Shirts %26 Long-Sleeve T-Shirts#start=4&cgid=rapala-clothing-tShirts

My opinion on spin seats is that 16 is too small for almost everyone. I use size 17's and find them fine. I have a 9 inch span from thumb to little finger tips. I find sizes larger than 17 a bit "cumbersome" on my lighter rods. I have built with 18's a couple times, but for my hand size, 17's work fine for all my spin. Make your decision based on your hand size and priorities ergonomics/comfort vs weight. Fuji DPSSD in size 17 weighs .8 oz. I think you are meaning Permagloss and Lumiseal. I have only used Permagloss but I believe they are equivalent moisture curing polyurethanes. You won't get the "epoxy look" from either. Both will not yellow with time/exposure to UV.

I think you can copy the pfd then paste into the message function. Yes, just did it, then cut it out. You have to have PFD software that will allow you to edit PFD files. You select the text, copy it, then go to the message function here and paste it.

Point Blank PB701MLF blank, built by me into a spin rod, good for everything I've tried it on. I've not found any blanks with as high true natural frequency as the Point Blanks have which probably means they are as sensitive or more sensitive than any other blanks I've tested, and I've done quite a few brands of premium blanks. It clearly indicates the fastest recovery speed of all the blanks. Very light for its power, of course, or it wouldn't have a high true natural frequency. Fuji titanium KLH guide train ending with size 4 KT's, Fuji Ultra Pro Candy Apple wraps, Fuji TVS size 17 seat.

What is the width of the point? Can you epoxy over it directly or do you have to use CP first? I saw some at Hobby Lobby this morning , but only in black exc for 3-pen packages, which I didn't want to go with. thanks

Why? Details?

I have to admit, don't see the rationale for that ball.

Main thing to remember is that if they are not here, they must be there. And keep applying this principal until fish are found.

A rod lathe is not necessary, nice but not necessary. I've built a lot of rods and never had one. I now use the bed and roller stands and thread carriage but no motor. I used to use a home made V block set of frames + a Flex Coat thread tensioner, and I did fine on it. Unless you are doing very long wraps turning the rod by hand works quite well. If you have a drill press it is easy and cheap to make a setup that will allow you to machine your own grips from cork rings using sandpaper, which is is much better than being stuck with factory shapes that may not be what you want, + you can get so many different types of attractive rings. If you want help on that send me a message and I'll get you the info.

You're welcome. You do know that after 6 pages and counting on this project we will expect photos on how it turns out. Keep asking questions-that is how one learns. :-)

That is Fuji Ultra Poly candy apple red #020 with Flex Coat cp. (I use two coats of cp just in case, and make sure to fill the tunnels until capillary action no longer draws cp into the tunnel, then blot off the excess with a paper towel. Second coat, same process) Pro Wrap metallic black and Pro Wrap gold metallic (one of their golds, don't remember which). I like metallics, even in black, for the nail knots I use for the trim rings. It tends to stay tight better than regular thread. I think I got those done with only 3 wraps of the nail knots, but cannot remember for sure. Might be 4. Cannot make a nail knot work with 2. A tip on nail knots, when you pull them tight and work them into position, don't cut the thread tails off immediately. Apply cp to the junction of the thread, justs a tiny drop, and it will stabilize the knot so that when the cp dries a very sharp exacto knife can be used to cut off the tails. Of course if you're not using cp, this cannot work. I really like the sheen of regular thread with cp. I put the first coat of cp on the wraps as soon as I feel confident the guides are in good alignment to stabilize the guide positions a little; they still can be moved slightly if necessary even though cp is on them, but it will be harder to do it, and they won't move from a casual bump. Note that if you use white cp it has solids in it, which is how it works. The color goes transparent when it dries. But you should mix the cp every time you use it to be sure the solids are in suspension and not settled at the bottom. I simply shake the bottle, which yes, makes bubbles, but since I blot it anyway any bubles are burst and don't dry.