MickD

One who asks this question is probably new to BC, so they should not start with braid or FC. Too many problems. Mono as recommended by others is the way to go. I like Suffix Elite in 14 pound test, and it doesn't feel stretchy at all as I used to feel Uzuri copoly was when I used it. Mono without a leader is the least problematic way to go, and it will work for all lures. You don't want FC for surface lures like poppers because it will sink and pull the lure under on the pop. Mono has about the same density as water, so it just stays where it lands and doesn't adversely affect the action of the popper type lures.

Try leader grade FC and going up to at least 10 pound test. I just came back from catching a number of LMB on drop shot using 15 pound test leader. Pretty clear water, not gin. If that doesn't work, or you want to try something that uses entirely different knots, try the VMC spin shot. You can have different pound tests above and below the hook, it helps some with line twist, and you can use any terminal rig knot you choose to tie the rig onto your leader.

No offense taken.

No need to remove old grease from a device like this. Just add whatever you have. It's not as critical as wheel bearings.

Me too.

My teen-age granddaughter learned quickly on a Fuego. I think for those of us who are knowledgeable but not expert will find the Daiwas very good. I've not owned a Lew's. One thing that I would strongly recommend for a beginner, start with mono line, about 12-14 pound test. Braid has issues that might slow you down, and FC most likely will be very costly (fragile, birdsnests don't often come out without damaging the line) and frustrating.

I'll add to that: any time you want to instantly, conveniently, and smoothly let out line, baitcaster is superior. For most of us spinning is superior for very light lures.

You will add a new dimension to your fishing with a baitcaster. Some lures and techniques just work better on a baitcaster. But don't worry, you won't likely give up your spinners. They have definite advantages for some techniques and lures too.

I have a number of Supremes and they are all as smooth as my other reels, drags work well. For the money they have all been excellent. I won't buy another because they got rid of the anti reverse switch. I don't know if they are packed with grease as I've never had a reason to open them.

If you have two rods of the same length and power the tip will be softer on the Xfast than it will be on a "slower" action. The problem comes with comparing rods of different lengths, different actions, different powers, with the descriptors of these characteristics all over the place from the vendors. Not all "medium powers" are the same power. Not all "fast actions" are the same action. But the fact is, that Xfast action rods normally have pretty soft tips. Are you familiar with "hot shot rods?" They are very stiff for most of their length, and have very soft tips to allow one to see the vibration of the hot shot lures as they vibrate in the current behind the boat. They have pretty high power, but their tips are very soft. They are the best example of what I describe. Xfast usually = soft tips.

It is the power that provides the acceleration of the lure and that loads the rod well for the cast. In the case of hard jerks I think making the jerk you want takes priority because if that is not right you won't get any fish. You have to find the power/action/length combination that with that line allows you to get the jerk characteristics that you want (and that the fish want). I don't think there is only one answer. With some Xfast actions the tip may be too soft to allow you to get the jerk you want. I think, based on my experience, that for that lure, a medium power fast action rod would be the best, and in a length that allows you to jerk it without having the tip in the water. I remember a long time ago that glass rods with weights on the tip were recommended in order to slow the jerks down. But I think that was for southern largemouths. It would not work well for northern smallies that I've encountered, which seem to want a more abrupt, sharper, jerk than would be possible with rigs like that.

I've used both, and have not seen an advantage for hi-vis. Maybe it's my technique, but I feel them or see low-viz line twitch, no need for hi-viz. Maybe a wasted worry, but I make the leader longer than I want with hi-viz thinking the bright line might turn fish off. I reason that a long string of something green would just look like algae or a weed and not concern a fish. But a long yellow one. . . maybe.

I didn't get a fish, or even a bite, on my most memorable night fishing outing. A friend and I decided to go out about midnight on a Canadian lake in August to try for walleyes. We ended up getting disoriented and were on the wrong side of an island when we realized where we were, at an area unlikely to produce. While deciding what to do next, the northern lights started. We just sat in the boat for about an hour watching the most impressive light show I have ever seen. I don't think we even wet a line.

Fly rod?

It is not overcomplicating it to provide details on how it's done without damaging the blank. Many newbies don't realize how easy it is to damage a blank. I expect most experienced builders, when they were newbies, damaged a blank doing tiptop replacement. I confess.

Right, the constant pull prevents damage from anything but the most careless application of heat. As I stated, I use the side of the flame. I use so little heat that I usually take them off and put them on without even using pliers, just my bare fingers.

Read what LeadHead said again, he has it exactly right. I do it a little differently, but same principal. I heat the barrel of the the tiptop with the side of a cigarette lighter flame while pulling with a string through the eye to provide tension. When the temp is right, it will slide off after only a few seconds. If you find it stubborn, take it to a rod repairman because the original tiptop was installed with epoxy, and you have to be VERY careful and skillful to remove it properly.

the recipe for a simple spiral is to place the first guide where you want it, then locate the other guides using a stress test, considering that it's going to be a spiral so may not need as many guides when most of them are on the bottom. Then rotate all the guides exc the first one to 180 degrees. That is where they will be wrapped. Now add a low two foot guide, same size as the runners, at 90 degrees half way between the first and second guides. It is simply to keep the line off the blank. Some don't use it. It should be very low, bend a guide if you like to get it lower. It will be loaded directly into the blank putting the legs into compression with no loading other than right into the blank. The bumper (the guide between 1 and 2) can go on either side. I put it on the same side as the reel handles so it's ;pointing up, as are the reel handles, when the rod is placed on the deck.

With 25 pound test leader one can give up about 50% of the leader strength and still fish well most of the time. Not so with the leader strength most of us use.

Can you show us the simplified GT, ? thanks I think it hangs because a big figure 8 knot is trying to be reeled through the tiptop. I don't think the GT knot makes sense for small guides and relatively light leaders. IMHO

You most likely can get along with 8 or 9 total with a spiral, good idea to have spares. Regarding knot clearance, you want it to be right even for a "now and then" knot clearance. Passing 30-20 through a size 5 will depend on the knot. FG OK for sure. I don't think you'll like it very much with a double uni. Alberto maybe, but I'm not sure. I don't go as heavy as 20 mono/FC. The double uni has 5 "layers" of the larger line, the mono/FC. Alberto has 2. FG has 1. If you have not already gotten familiar with properly tying an FG, you may find an adventure in store. Some people get it easily, some don't , some argue line characteristics get involved with its success. If you go Alberto,, I suggest finishing it by very tightly setting both tag ends, both running lines, and adding two half hitchs of the tag end, also set tightly. I've had them unravel without the half hitches. If you are using 20 mono or FC I don't see the need for 30 braid, so with no knot any guide will work with 20 mono/FC. Are you familiar with the "simple spiral?" Easy peasy, no problems with line loading on the reel to one side, and cast just as well as the more complicated designs. You will need one more double foot guide, very low, size 5 or 6 to put between the RV and the second guide.

Anglersresource.net>Open Menu>Resources>Static Load Tutorial https://anglersresource.net/static-load-tutorial/

I've not found a need to go beyond 20 inches from the level wind guide on the reel and the first guide. After that I do a lot like Casts by fly with a two line stress test. I have done both simple spiral and traditional on top, prefering the latter just for cosmetics, I guess. I just cannot seem to get use to the look of the spiral. But I agree with Casts that they fish well. The elimination of torquing is most important on heavier power rods. Also, with the small, low, guides I use, there really isn't much torquing anyway. I use the Fuji RV for the first guide and KB/KT's to the end, usually 5.5, but have gone as small the 4.

Good for you guys with data! I just might go back to the FG knowing now what you have taught me.

I think this is a very good point. Many times we think more is better, but in the case of the FG, there is an optimum number of weaves, and going beyond that is, I believe, deterimental rather than helping to make a strong knot. I'm wondering whether 16 is too many.