MickD

Yes. A-Jay says he is a retired coast guard guy, but that is untrue. He is a retired bank robber who has put all his take into fishing stuff. :-)

Whatever equipment you use, make sure you can hold the fish w - a - y out in front of you. ?

I forgot to mention that at times Rapala DT's of the right depth for the water you're fishing are quite good. Slow retrieve, try steady + stop and go. Ike's Smash is best color , I think, although I had a follow on bright orange last week. As the water cools deep hard suspending jerks can get effective. Sharp snaps. https://www.lakemonster.com/lake/MI/Lake Saint Clair-water-temperature-1536

Fish will be out from weeds, so don't be afraid to back off some from them. Could be just about any depth. They really like sun, so don't be surprised if they turn off when the clouds go through, then pick up when the sun pokes out. Don't stop fishing around noon, with the right conditions they'll hit any time. You can usually see them on a depth finder, and they often hit right under the boat. If you miss a strike, leave it, they often come back even though you think they felt the hook. Best drop shot is probably the small Z-too minnow in white or The Deal color. With all soft lures, usually some shade of green is usually best. Goby colors too. If you find some fish in shallow/clear enough water to see dark spots, fish them. When you catch one, you often can see others following the fish, drop a white tube or minnow to them even as you are fighting the first fish. The others are coming for cleanup of the fish's stomach emptying. Which is white. Of course if you find rock piles, they usually hold fish. We found fish off the Canadian shore in from 10 to 14 feet last week. But it was really tough when the sun was not out. Do NOT go into Canada without Canadian licenses. Big problem if caught.

I respectfully suggest that with one maybe and one not your fault, there might not be enough data to prove that they are "more susceptible to breakage." More susceptible than what? I agree the RX10 is a nice series of blanks. I have the spin one you speak of and it's one of my favorites. One thing nice about the RX10 series is that Rainshadow published CCS data on them. Everyone familiar with my preaching knows how strongly I feel that we need to be talking objective rod descriptions as much as we can. I still believe based on my True Natural Frequency testing that the Point Blanks are the most sensitive blanks. They have higher TNF's. I also wrapped one (731MXF) around my trolling motor shaft and was amazed that it survived, still going strong after two years. A couple bent guides, but the blank survived. So with the more modern hi mod blanks, they may not be that fragile.

Never had a "bad spool" of line, as I think you are defining it. I've had trouble with FC, but it's FC, not bad quality. I've had fish vanish with Vanish, but that's not bad quality, it's just Vanish. I think almost all references to "bad spool" are untrue.

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Picasso_Grommeted_Replacement_Skirts_3pk/descpage-PGRS.html A couple in here are pretty close. Chartreuse gizzard shad and Tennessee shad.

A now deceased expert reel serviceman used to charge extra for reels that had been serviced with hot sauce, the red contaminated his operation. The red is a gimmick, IMHO, and natural greases without the dyes make more sense.

Don't doubt what this man says. He has a professional license.

I'll bet most of the engines forum readers are using cannot be started by the cord, even if there is one. I doubt if I can start my 60HP. There is another option which is not that expensive. There are battery packs, very compact, about the size of good sized book , which can start an outboard engine with ease. They hold their charge all season, can be stowed on the boat for the season, then put into your car. They will start car engines, too. Here is one of many: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-NEXPOW-22000mAh-Portable-Q9B/dp/B082ZZ2W14/ref=sr_1_11?crid=3J4V2V6AIVQAU&keywords=emergency+battery+jump+starter&qid=1661604832&sprefix=emergency+batter%2Caps%2C264&sr=8-11

Since you found it pretty early, even though the seal may be damaged, there may not yet be water in the lube. If there is, the lube will look cloudy, milky. It will collect at the bottom, so letting a little out of the drain hole, as mentioned before, can help determine if it's there. I would also be very aware of a more-than-normal oil film on the water when operating the motor. That could indicate oil getting out past the seal. It would also be a good idea to inspect the lower unit area below the prop for oil before going out next time. I would not change the seal unless you are sure it's leaking. Most likely you got it before any damage was done.

And resetting the drag to the proper setting takes no time at all. . . I'm not that efficient, will stick with reels with switches. My reason for bringing this up wasn't meant to debate the merits of it, just to point out that some reels are now being made without them, and buyers should know to watch for it if they like the switch.

Seems like a reel with such high accolades would have an anti reverse switch. But it doesn't. It's not for me. I don't doubt it's smooth, but I cannot tell the "smoothness" difference between my Stradics, my Tatulas, and my Fuegos.

Drag has nothing to do with it. When I've reeled too far up, I can switch the anti reverse off and let a little line out. So much easier than pulling against a drag. Whether the reel has a great drag or not, doesn't have anything to do with the convenience of what I'm talking about .

Those who love the Nasci evidently don't miss the switch, because it doesn't appear to have one.

Daiwa Fuego LT. Great reel for the money, cannot tell the difference between it and the Tatula for almost $200. Maybe in a few years, but I doubt it. Used to be Pfluegers were in the hunt, but the new ones don't have anti reverse switches. Neither do the Shimanos, I think. I won't buy a reel without the switch.

I don't think the larger one is a spook. I think spooks have a symmetrical shape, front to rear. If they are wood and you want to seal them, any clear wood finish should do it well, but wrapping epoxy might be a little thick. If you use it, i would apply it as thinly as possible. Or just at the exposed wood.

What does "zing" mean?

Hitena Pureline 19 pound test.

ERN 21 , good info. That is just a little higher than the ML Point Blank 701MLF. I don't think you'll like 3/4 lures on it but it should work just fine for lighter stuff, especially finesse. Sounds like the only thing missing is "soulful." Sorry, sarcasm alert. Doesn't give action info, but being that light it should work for a lot of stuff. I personally don't like the ridges on NFC, makes wrapping more challenging, tough to move nail knot trim rings. I received a "mirror finish" and it still had ridges. The NFC carbon fiber grips are very nice. You will love them.

What is the length, power , and action? And model designation. NFC describes power differently for different lines of their rods. A medium power drop shot and a medium power spin jig will be nowhere close to each other in power. It will be nice when they publish their CCS numbers.

KB and KT guides are not in the least fragile, in my opinion. I wrapped a Point Blank with size 4's around my trolling motor shaft and bent two guides; the blank survived. The guides were straightened out, and they are still there and working fine two years later. The KT's have a very small foot, but when wrapped with a locking loop, they will not pull out. Their small size makes them less likely to get snagged on things. As with most things, there are some trade-offs at work here. I like to make that trade-off in favor of micros. I can handle the knot issue and can still get the line through the guides when setting up.

First, that pro who spoke on the video is really mixed up, IMHO. I don't think he has thought this issue through very clearly. One needs to realize that all micros are not the same size, they range from about 2 mm up to about 6 and are still called micros. The larger sizes are really little or no different in performance than the same sizes in single foot fly guides or any other single foot guide. In the smaller sizes they are obviously lighter than larger guides so they slow the response time/recovery time of the blank less than heavier guides. It can easily be verified by testing the True Natural Frequency of the blank/rod. This theoretically makes the rod more sensitive and longer casting. I do believe that the smaller sizes do cast farther than larger guides. The reason for this is the aformentioned faster response plus two other factors, I believe (admittedly without objective test data). The line is controlled earlier in the guide train thus cutting line friction on the guides. This may be less a factor on BC than spin, but it's still there. Second, and I have never heard this mentioned before, I believe they cast farther because the line, which is a long cylinder flying through the air, is straigtened out more and therefore has less air resistance. It is less of a loop flying through the air and more of a tiny straight cyclinder. I will not be surprised to be told that I'm smoking something illegal. Do they make sense on BC rods? They do for me. All my BC builds have either size 4 or 5.5 micros , Fuji KB/KT on them. And they cast great. Downsides? As mentioned, smaller sizes require smaller knots if one uses a knot. They also can ice up more than larger guides if one fishes fresh water in freezing temperatures. Which I don't.

Try whatever you want, and if it works and catches fish, stick with it. I would think that a free rig, light hook, with a floating lure would be very effective and relatively snag free. Z man stuff.

They slow the response/recovery speed of the rod. They don't change the power or action (defined as where the rod initially bends) of the rod.