MickD

I guess I missed that one, but beware, most do not have it. Maybe the "new" Sahara isn't "new."

Shimanos don't have anti-reverse switches any more. Not for me.

I have no idea whether the rod manufacturers have CCS data or not, but I know that the blank makers do have it. They have been reluctant to publish the numbers, but that is slowly changing. One reason for their reluctance is that as soon as they publish something definitive, some of us will challenge their data when we don't get the same number. I know they have the numbers because I have asked for them and they have provided them. I take my own numbers so have asked only a few times to check correlation. You don't need expensive equipment or a lot of space. The link to CCS shows a big sheet of pegboard being used, and yes, this is the best way to do it. But you can do the numbers without it. You need to be able to hold the butt of the blank/rod so that it can be leveled (with 10 % of the blank length between the supports of the butt), then you load it to bend it 1/3 of its length, then measure the weight it took to bend it. (grams). This number is the Intrinsic Power of the blank/rod. Then measure the angle the tip makes with horizontal (while loaded) and you have the action angle (AA). The process in no way harms the rod, so one could buy a rod and return it if the numbers are not what he wanted. https://www.common-cents.info/ Message me with your email address if you want me to send you a file that shows my setup. It really doesn't take anything expensive and anyone sort of handy can cobble a setup that will work.

Agree on Tatulas, great, light reels. For me the size of the reel depends on what line I intend to use and how strongly I feel about weight for that setup. For panfish I would think that the line used would be pretty light and any size reel would work OK. If buying a new reel and if you like anti reverse switches, beware of some brands as they are discontinuing them. I have a Fuego LT and I really cannot tell the difference between it and the Tatula for fishing. I don't know all the details on the differences, but if you want a good reel for about $100, I think a Fuego will do just fine.

The problem is that the subjective descripters power and action are often inconsistent. What is called "fast" may not be "fast." One line of blanks, highly regarded, has about 6 light and ultra light blanks that they call "X-fast," but the action angles (that's CCS number for action, usually people would consider a rod with an AA of 55 a "slow" action, an AA of 80 a "X-fast.") vary from 55 to 80. Clearly, not all X-fast. Same variation with power. However, CCS is about solid numbers. All rods with the same numbers will have close to the same power and action but not necessarily the same dynamic characteristics like recovery speed.

A 7-6 extra fast rod is a 6-6 moderate action rod on a stick. The point is that long extra fast rods are more forgiving than short extra fast rods.

But how do you define where the tip begins? It is not a definite thing, like a mark on the blank. It is where you want it to be. Purely subjective. Instead, define the action by CCS.

Extra fast refers to where the rod initially bends. Yes , it is not the stiffness. In fact Xfast rods of the same power as other actions will have the softest, less stiff, tips. I don't even know what a "longer tip" is. Where does the tip start and end?

This isn't golf. When you get a bad score in golf it's your fault. When you get skunked fishing, it's the fish's fault. Jokingly stated, but there is a lot of truth in the statement. Sometimes fish are just "off."

It is my opinion that the Legend is more sensitive than the Vicotory. Enough to justify the price? Up to you to decide, but if the goal is highest sensitivity, with rods of similar power and action, I believe the Legend will be more sensitive.

If it's just surface deterioration another good solution is to wrap all grips with Winn tape.

Switch the system over to LED's. Very trouble free long term. You will not regret it. You will still need a good ground, but once you have that and the system properly wired, you'll have no more light troubles for years.

Got a photo of the rod in question? I would be a lot more confident in commenting if I could see the problem. I'm not sure what you mean by "wearing out."

I understood what? I don't understand this comment.

It's a crap shoot without numbers. If you can do CCS to measure the power and action, and can buy from a source that allows return, then you can measure the new rod, compare, and make a better decision.

Where can one get a Calcutta for $154?

Not many can cast with that precision.

What is being missed here is that all braids are not the same. If one uses 8 carrier premium braids (or more with some Hitena braids) one can go higher in pound test than with 4 carrier braids. I personally won't use anything over about 20 pounds regardless of what braid it is. But handling problems with 40 pound braid on a spinning outfit is hardly surprising. My Hitena Pureline 19 pound test handles about like most 10-15 pound braids. Pricey, but the best braid I've used. It doesn't need any break-in time.

Got it. Seems like you are doing very well considering all. Keep it up!

You only go around once. Best fishing investment I've ever made. At the time I bought I thought it extravagant. I now think it is a necessity. I can understand the concern. But I have caught smallies in less than 4 feet of water right under the boat while spotlock was working. I know at times they are very wary, but I have many times been successful in shallow water with spotlock cranking away. No, I don't fully understand. But what I do understand is that not having to climb up to the bow to deploy and stow is very very nice. And safer in rough water.

Invest in Spotlock. It is a game changer. When you do this get the motor that has remote deploy and stow. That too is a game changer. Being able to control the motor, deploy and stow, from anywhere in the boat is really nice. Especially as we age.

There are two possible explanations for this. 1. It's not really Xfast action 2. It has a soft/weak spot in the middle of the rod. The latter is not very likely.

I think the point the woman in the video makes in recommending inspection is that if the degradation has started it will be visible. I believe humidity/time is the issue. I don't know if it's the white or the yellow, but she mentions that it will be apparent if it's been degraded. If it loses its integrity the pfd will inflate.

You can do locking loops over the ring without doing blocking wraps. I really doubt if the blocking wraps do anything more than the "blocking" that you get with the epoxy. But as is almost everything on these forums, it's just an opinion without data. I do have experience, though, and have never had a micro pull out using 3 locking loops and no blocking wraps.

What is "fair" is what buyers are willing to pay. All this discussion of markups/labor/etc is irrelevant. If what they are willing to pay is too low for you to justify your total efforts/costs, there is your answer.