MickD

Might want to consider not taking reels apart past the first "layer." Simply use them, lube through ports or externally, limit how far you get into them, and I think you'll have much more success. I haven't taken a reel totally apart in years and all of mine, BC, spin, and fly, work just fine.

If bottom trash is a problem with Ned try using a Ned on a drop shot with the hook above the sinker a foot or so.

Check out the offerings of SiebertOutdoors.com to find one very similar. Great quality, unbelievable options.

The new Tatula is amazingly smooth and easy to cast. The previous model was very good, but the newest one is even better.

I built a 7 1/2 foot 3 wt fly rod into a spin and while it does work well on the cast, it is a little sloppy feeling, and it's a "fast" action fly rod. Which would be called moderate in spin and cast blanks. So finding a fly that doesn't feel too sloppy will be a challenge. If 2 piece is an absolute requirement, then fly might be the only choice. The walleye spin blank I mentioned (one piece) is probably about as good as it gets for BFS. It is light enough in power to load fairly well on the cast and yet has just enough power to not be overloaded by decent sized fish. It's a fine line one is walking finding the right rod for BFS.

A friend just built a BFS and likes it a lot, 7 foot 2 inch walleye spin blank, light power, moderate-fast action. I think longer is better for BFS for better casting distance and longer flex for the cast. Specs below, not that you are going to build, but as a guide to what works well. It is actually what I would call a light power, not ML. He casts neds well with it. I tried it and it works. Might have trouble finding a two piece. A 7 1/2 foot 4 weight fly rod with the handle changed might work quite well if you can find one with what in fly would be called a fast action. I'm not familiar with what is available in factory rods. IMMWS72ML-TC (Rainshadow Immortal) Shad Raps / Lindy Rigging / Jigs / Slip Bobbers 7'2" 6-12lb. 1/8-3/8oz. 1 0.422 4.0 Fast 1.6oz. ML

Since backup will most likely never be used, doesn't much matter what it is. It is there to simply take up space.

A-Jay can't afford another outfit. He's robbed so many banks already to get his current arsenal that they know him when he walks in and they lock the vault. Just isn't working any more. ? I fish similar water to what he does and I have no use for a "heavy."

I agree that most rods are much more versatile than most fishermen seem to think, based on the almost obsessive attention the subject gets on this and other forums.

With Fuji DPSSD seats installed up-locking, the nut stays tight. If in doubt one can use the jam nut that is available. I prefer uplocking so I can get a smooth transition to a small ramp off the front hood of the up-locking seat.

If an anti reverse switch is important to you make sure the reel has one. Shimano reels for the most part do not have them any more. Tatula LT does, and is a great quality reel.

Considering the comment above and the fact that you can lob with the heavier lures, probably will work. A second question might be "Is there a better blank for going as high as 3-4 oz?" I don't know the answer.

10 pound braid will make a big difference, keep the leader only 3-4 feet long. A hook set worth a try would be to reel in the slack with the rod tip at about 10 o'clock until you feel the fish, drop the rod to point at the fish to get a little slack, the SNAP it back up to about 11 o'clock and reel at the same time.

There are so many variations of treble hooks that I doubt if a good answer can be made. I think the best bet is to get some hooks that seem to make sense and try them.

They have to be more sensitive than the flexible EVA grips, and I think they are more sensitive than cork. They are lighter and rigid, so it makes sense that they would transmit bites better. I agree that with spin the hand isn't into contact with the grips that much, and on many baitcast techniques sensitivity isn't much of an issue either. If one is not using braid then the biggest thing they can do to improve sensitivity, bigger than any high tech rod they could buy, would be to switch to braid.

They are excellent blanks. I have no info on durability/toughness, but they are light for their power, feel crisp and responsive. Their True Natural Frequency appears to be higher than the regular MHX blanks, although I don't have a lot of data. A nice, smooth, handsome finish, too.

I doubt if any reel is a better deal than the Daiwa Tatula LT. Still has an anti reverse switch, too.

With my rods all having very small guides the double uni is too large when I use the leader pound test that I like, about 15, so I went to the Alberto. And had unexplainable failures with the knot unravelling when aggressively jigging or snapping. It would come loose on a slack line; it was not breaking. Even when I was very sure I was tying it correctly, with the tag end going back out correctly. I started finishing it with two half hitches and problem solved. It is easy to tie if you start with the leader loop/braid pinched in one hand and wrap out away from the pinch 7 wraps. Then switch hands and pinch just out from the wraps with the other hand. And wrap with the free hand back out towards the leader loop, feed the tag out through, wet, and pull tight. Really set it hard. Then tie the braid tag tight to the knot with two half hitches, also pulled tight.

Unless you can find someone to provide the CCS numbers you have no confidence in the power of the blank. A friend just built one with the Rainshadow below and it works fine with Neds. I think for BFS the longer blanks will work a little better than the shorter ones. The issue is that you are between a rock and a hard place. You want low enough power to nicely cast the light lures, but you want adequate power to handle decent fish. This blank does that pretty well. This blank is more like what most would call a moderate or mod/fast action. IMMWS72ML-TC Shad Raps / Lindy Rigging / Jigs / Slip Bobbers 7'2" 6-12lb. 1/8-3/8oz. 1 0.422 4.0 Fast 1.6oz. ML

Great tutorial! thanks,

Chrome with blue in sunny clear water for lipless, Ike's custom Smash for DT's in all waters, shallow cranks in white or bone. Not sure why. I think certain waters for some reason have "favorite" colors, meaning that on this lake white works well, on that lake green works well, on that lake black works well. Or at least there are "light" lakes and "dark" lakes.

But the question was how much difference a folding tongue makes. The difference between a folding tongue and a non folding tongue will be the same no matter what engine is on the boat and no matter whether it has a jack plate. The difference depends only on the two tongue designs.

Motor and jackplate have no bearing on how much space is gained with a folding tongue.

Very nicely designed and executed. I like the simplicity. Some comments on Point Blanks. They have the highest True Natural Frequencies of any blanks I've tested, and I've tested a good number of premium blanks. This means that their recovery from deflection is faster. Theoretically this should mean longer casts, and it surely gives a crisp, clean, feel. I believe it indicates higher sensitivity as well, but cannot objectively prove it. If anyone wants to know how to test for TNF, let me know. All it takes is a way to mount the blank, wrapping rollers do fine, and an Android device. Quick and clean. I prefer Point Blanks also because they are smooth and don't have the ridges that are sort of a PIA when wrapping and trying to slide nail knots down the blank.

The uni for line to line is about as easy to tie as it gets, is super reliable, and its only down side is its size. Which leads many of us using micro guides to go to smaller knots like the FG and the Alberto.