MickD

AnthonyRss, what type of reels are you using with yours. It is the 6' 8" 10-17 fast mentioned, and it was sold by Mudhole as a Shikiri shII, without decal as had been mentioned in previous posts. If it's not shikiri, I got screwed. But not out of much at the discount price. Looks and feels very good. I don't have a reel plan yet as I don't know whether to build it into a casting rod or a spinning. Am leaning spin since I don't have a good "heavy" spinning rod-mine are more to the medium/fast variety. Hoping for more comments. thanks, Mick

Anyone with experience making a rod from a Shikiri MB683 (Mag Bass) blank? Couldn't resist buying one on sale, but not sure what is the best way to use it. The blank feels a lot like the Loomis SB 812 (spinner bait - the middle action one) in the hand. It feels like it could make a great casting rod for lures in the 1/2-1 oz range, like the Loomis, or a fairly stout spinning rod for heavy jigs, jig & pigs, etc. Might make a good dropshot rod? Would be very effective for twitching, I would think. Comments please. thanks, Mick

I am working on a spinning rod right now that will incorporate part of the design in these posts. If all goes well it will have a burl cork foregrip of about 2 inch length that will have "arcs" sanded out of it on the top and the bottom that will fit the thumb on top and the finger underneath. It is for my son who, when jigging, has only the pinky behind the reel stem. I don't know if he casts this way or not, but he wants to be able to touch the blank with both fingers but doesn't like the look of "no cork" up there. The double cutouts will make it look a little goofy, IMHO, but that's what we are working on. Functionally, with the way he holds the rod, it should work very well. My only concern is with the structure of the cut-out foregrip. There won't be a lot of cork left. I think I can get a solid partial "ring" of cork at both the front and rear of the cork and plan to use the rubberized cork for the front cork ring. Anybody tried this before? Comments?

RW, a question- I found a chart on typical pound test vs strength for different kinds of lines, and the Yozuri Hybrid lines are on a line between mono and braid, indicating significantly higher strength vs diameter than mono. The Yozuri web site talks of its higher density, which would make sense based on its strength-the strength has to come from somewhere. From the web site: Because of the high density and specific gravity of fluorocarbon, Yo-Zuri HYBRID weighs more than nylon monofilaments. Casting distance is appreciably greater than similar diameter nylon lines because line weight is an integral component in achieving casting distance. Also, the hard, slick finish creates far less resistance as the line runs through the guides. It sounds like great stuff, and I plan to try some, especially the 6# for spinning-I would love to find a 6-10 pound line that handles well- but I don't see how with its high specific gravity it can float? thanks, Mick

I've used many models of both BPS and Cabelas rods and I think you get about what you pay for (except sales will move this around significantly). Buy the best you can afford at either place. With spinning, the rod is the most important, in baitcasting the reel is the most important. The whole system has to be right, but my point is if you have to compromise a little, do it on the reel in spinning and on the rod in casting. A couple things to keep in mind on reels- Pro repair people sometimes will not work on reels other than the name brands like Shimano, Daiwa, Quantum, etc. You can get really good deals on name brands from the stores on Ebay-just make sure the seller has 98% or better in the seller ratings.

I presume since you were talking about 20 pound line that you are asking about line for casting reels. I used to use some copolymers of 14 pound, and liked them. Then I tried braids and probably will never go back to mono/copoly. I really love the terrific sensitivity of braid and the fact that I can cast well with line that is very strong. I am using braids from 30-40 pounds. They last a lot longer than mono/copoly, so their high up front cost is not an issue. They also have no memory, so don't coil after being on the reel for a while. Some cautions about braid: Even though you may be using 25-40 pound test, set your drag as if you were using 12-15 pound test. Braid, being small in diameter for its strength, will tend to dig in as you have experienced, but with lighter drag settings, it is usually not a problem with modern braids. I havn't had it happen in years. Some do and some don't use a leader. The arguments go on forever. A leader of fluoro will give a little cushion to the zero stretch of the braid. If you choose to use a flourocarbon leader, as I always do, use a leader quite a bit lower in pound test than your main line. Then if you have a break-off it will usually be at the lure and not at the main line or main line to leader knot. . . if you use the right knot to tie the leader to the main braid line. Most recommend a uni to uni knot, and I've used that knot for years with very little trouble. The Albright and improved Albright are also popular, and I've tried them and believe them to be superior to the uni-uni because the thicker line (the flouro) is only doubled in the knot, not tripled or quad as in the uni-uni. Makes for a more compact knot. Check this knot now and then to be sure it isn't getting beaten up by the rod guides. I use just shy of a rod length of leader so the knot doesn't go through the reel every cast. I've found Vanish to be inferior to other flouros and use Cabelas flouro line most of the time-it is much cheaper than the fluoros that are sold as leaders and I've had no trouble with it. If there is a problem with flouro it will most likely be in terminal knot strength/effectiveness. I am using Power Pro now, but many comment on it tending to fray, and I can see that issue now and then, mostly when fixing a backlash - yes I get one now and then. I have read that comments on Suffix braid that indicate it does not fray, so plan to try it soon in 30 pound test. If you get to be a fan of braid you will want to migrate to softer rod actions than what are ideal for mono-I use nothing that has the word "heavy" in its action description. Give braid a try-I think you will really like how it casts and it's super sensitivity.

Regarding: Soft rods will not drive the hook point and will often result in missing a bite or because of the delayed reaction, gut hooking the fish. The ability of a rod and line to set the hook depends on the stiffness of the whole system, not just the rod. Since you use a form of mono which is softer, more stretchy, than the almost zero stretch of braid, you may have a fairly stiff rod, but the line softens it up. I use a softer line and zero stretch line, so the overall systems may be a lot alike. And they both most likely work ok with the specific angler, which is another part of the total system. You have to consider the total system.

Regarding: I recommend switching either to a (stretchable) monofilament or to a medium action rod. Definitely-the rod must be chosen based on the line you prefer. Because I use almost only braid, my rods tend to be softer than if I were using mono, and I just do not have any problems with lures "ripping out of the fish's mouth." Softer rods are more comfortable to cast with, too (both spinning and casting), and this issue is the same whether you use braid or mono.

Regarding: I wonder why Shimano reels are made so differently? They seem good-to-go right out of the box. Attaboy RW, I was just coming to question why a $200 + reel needs a bunch of upgrades and you nailed it. Although, I do have reels I like better than Shimanos, that feel and perform as well as or better than. For example, IMHO the Daiwa/Cabelas Capricorn/Prodigy spinning reels beat the Stradics. I took my son's Stradics apart for cleaning/lubing last year and they sure look cheap on the inside, are hard to disassemble and reassemble, are no smoother, quieter, and have no better drag than the D/C C/P's, and my perference is for a handle that fits the hand better than that clunky chunk on the Stradic. And they are significantly less expensive.

"Braid Blade" scissors do a fine job, as will a really sharp knife if you cut against something. I have never found any tool with jaws/cutters that simply close on the braid to cut it cleanly. I use a flame to get the tips of the uni-uni leader to line knot to their shortest possible length (doesn't work well in the boat/wind, however).

Regarding: +1... Except for the weight between glass and graphite. When I did all the research for my CB rod, I found that the statement is not true. Powell for instance, there glass rods are the same or lighter than the graphite of the same specs. Other than that I agree. I went to their website, and sure enough, they say their glass rods are lighter than what appears to be equivalent graphite. Not sure how they do it, but until I weigh one, I stand corrected. Their rods look like a pretty good value considering how light they are. Sure wish they had blanks for sale to build one up.

Just received my BPS Christmas catalog and their Extremes and Bionic Blades are on sale: Extremes for 64.99 + shipping (XTR66MT or XTR70MT - I prefer longer rather than shorter, and suggest these medium actions for cranks-will cast more easily and comfortably than a heavy action and will be softer for the cranks) or Bionic Blades for $54.99 + shipping (BNC70MT). I don't think you can do better for a value rod than these. I've used both and they are good rods.

Check out Bass Pro Shops for their rods on sale- Bionic Blades and Extremes are very good and often at great prices. Especially the combos. Re the comment on glass lighter than equivalent graphite-doesn't sound logical when you consider that the modulus of elasticity of graphite is so much higher than glass. Seems impossible with guides, grips, and reel seats of the equivalent same weight that the blank could be lighter. Would like to see some data.

I assume you're talking bait casting. Don't believe the argument that the best crankbait rod is glass. Glass is much heavier and less sensitive than a rod with a somewhat equivalent action made of graphite. Graphite makes a great crankbait rod as long as it is the right action for the weight of the lures you are casting and is a fairly soft action for the reasons you mentioned. For fairly light lures I love the Loomis Crankbait CBR843C (completed rod number). I made mine and it is the lightest rod I've made to date, even against top of the line spinning rods of same 7 foot length. I made one for my son and he loves his, and uses it for jigging as well as cranks and comments on how nice it is to use a rod that sensitive. Keep the line you will be using in mind as well. I use braid, and the soft action of the 843 pairs well with braid, offering some forgivness to the non-stretch braid. My son uses mono and still loves the rod. With mono you might go up to the next model.

Loomis Loomis CBR843C is a wonderful rod for lures from 1/4-5/8 oz. It is a lighter action than most, but with the braid I like to fish with, it is ideal. One mistake many make is going with an action that is too heavy, thinking that a lighter action won't handle big fish. Big mistake. The lighter actions load well, similar to the "loading" talked about with fly rods, and are more comfortable and effective for casting than the heavier actions. And they will handle big fish just fine. My first fish on mine was a largemouth of about 6 pounds weight, and the rod handled it perfectly. It has also handled King Salmon up to about 15 pounds with no problems. It has the characteristics you want in a crankbait rod, it is fairly soft and a little slow compared to most graphite rods, and it is feather light, unlike glass. I have a glass crankbait rod, but it feels like a heavy club compared to the Loomis. I made mine, and one for my son. He loves his for casting and also uses it for jigging and comments on how much he enjoys such a sensitive rod (also unlike glass). He uses mono on his.

Having viewed this kind of question on this site many times it appears to me that the Shimano Curado would be the most mentioned favorite casting reel-sounds like a "can't go wrong" kind of decision. Check out this site: http://stores.ebay.com/All-Pro-Fisher_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm I've bought reels from this Ebay store before and this is a very reliable outfit. He has "buy it now" Curados for $170+ $5 shipping.

I fish with a low ratio BPS Extreme, and it casts wonderfully-smooth, quiet-no problems. Except I don't like that low ratio for any kind of fishing. I think 6.3 is optimum for most fishing. Having to remove the side cover to adjust is a snap, and you really don't have to adjust this reel that often. I expect the Pro Qualifier is even better, and it does adjust from the outside. Remember that in bait casting the reel is much more important than spinning, and with the differences in the sale prices of these reels only about $15, I would pospone the purchase, save up a little more, and buy the Pro Qualifier. In 6.3 for me, and I'd just reel a little slower if necessary.

Just noticed today that one of my least favorite spinning reels is a Quantum PT i in 20 size. It just isn't very smooth compared to the Cabelas/Daiwa Prodigy/Capricorn reels. After fishing with them, the Quantum always stands out as not being nearly as nice to use. Bail feels sloppy, although it always works, the drag is fine, it's the roughness on reeling that really is the problem. It has been maintained well and not used that much, so there is no reason for this problem.

I have two Quantum casting reels, a Cabo wide spool for salt (have caught cudas to 4 feet on it-performed perfectly-drag is bullet proof-had albacore take 150 yards in one screaming run and drag was solid and smooth as silk all the way) and a Pro PT 7:1 for fresh water casting (salmon to 15 pounds, long hard runs, drag on this one is bullet proof too). Regarding casting, both models seem to be quite critical to adjustments. Every lure weight change or type seems to require adjustment, unlike other reels I've used. I just discovered an easy way to improve them. The adjustment screw that loads the end of the spool shaft does not have a spring inside it, just a solid washer to provide the contact with the shaft. Thus it goes from no contact to hard contact in about a tenth of a turn. By putting the lightest wave washer (from the hardware store bin of hardware)I could find in the adjustment cap UNDER the solid washer (solid washer still contacts the end of the spool) I found that it is less critical of adjustment and gives more of a usable adjustment range. Some reels use a coil spring in this position, and if I can find one of the right diameter and length, I'll try that-it should work better. Both reels, exc for comment above, perform flawlessly under really demanding conditions. I use braid on both.

For another opinion: David is an expert and knows what he is talking about. I agree that I learn something with every build, so if you stand where I am in my rod building progress and look back it leads to a conclusion that a $150 blank may not be the right place to start. I recommend starting with a much cheaper blank, and I'm told that Rainshadow blanks are a very good value. Don't do it if you are just looking for a cheaper rod. It's not about cheap, it's about doing it yourself and coming up with a rod you can really feel proud of. You can buy some very nice rods for $100, all built up and ready to go, especially if you follow the Bass Pro Shops sales. (Like David said) To me the reason for building is that I can, for the price of a good premium rod, (~$200) have a rod that is better than a factory rod, designed specifically for my type of fishing, for my particular reel and line type, better, lighter guides generally, better cork, that has my "brand" of winding schemes (simple, elegant, classy). I recommend you look at David's post at the top of the tacklemaking forum for an idea of what you are getting into. For first rods you don't need all the equipment he has-you can turn cork on a drill press with the proper "jigs," or you can just use purchased cork handles and sand them to what you want. You can make reamers fairly easily, and as others have pointed out, winding can be done with books for thread tension. You will need a drying motor and chuck (bought mine on eBay for about $12-cobbled my own V blocks for supporting the rod for winding and drying). Another great source of info is the library at http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/library.html Rodmaker Magazine is about as good as it gets for info, but costs about $27/year (worth every penny if you get into rodmaking). It is very important to understand that every aspect of designing a rod is flexible-you can do whatever you want- BUT you should understand why you are doing it the way you are planning to do it and understand the tradeoffs involved. For first builds you can copy existing designs, then work on your own designs on subsequent builds if you choose to continue. One of the most critical steps that was sort of glossed over as inconsequential in an earlier post is that of guide sizing and location. Read up on that in detail before starting a rod (before buying the guides). An idea for cheaply getting a feel for winding is to buy a few hook keepers and some thread that matches your existing rods that don't have keepers, and install some keepers on those rods. I'd practice on an old piece of blank or a dowel first. If you do your homework I don't think the risk of ruining a blank is that high. It may not be the same rod you would build if it were your 10th rod, but it will be a good, servicable, rod that you can be proud of. Mick

There are plenty of high quality components other than Fuji. For guides I have recently built 2 rods with Amtak titanium frame nanolite ring guides ("Titans") and really like them. I cannot testify about Fuji's customer service, but Amtak is very fast and responsive. Nanolite is zirconium oxide, which according to Amtak is almost as hard as SIC but much less brittle. I have used both and had no trouble with either. Of course for what you pay for them, they both should be very good! I think the need for the hardest rings is most important for tiptops. I have some pretty cheap rods that I have used with braid for many years and have never grooved a guide. Just the tiptops. I love the Forecast textured trigger reel seat as it is available in a large selection of inside diameters so you don't use arbors, just get the right size and glue it in.

Oops! Forgot to suggest EBay-there are usually some good deals there, especially if you are patient. Check out the sellers ratings-should be 98-100% positive-anything less would be suspect. Better to save up and get a good casting reel rather than settle and be displeased with it. Check out what you are planning to purchase on this site-there are a lot of knowledgeable people who can help you avoid mistakes. With spinning it is 80% about the rod, with casting it is 80% about the reel.

I use small crosslok snaps for most of my fishing, tie direct to tubes, other finesse plastics. Many cranks will work better with a snap as long as it is not too big. Also, I rarely use swivels-only use them when using spoons for a long time like casting for salmon or pike. I agree with Roadwarrier on his assessment of casting vs spinning but would add that if you are going to be casting for hours and hours, like on a trip to Canada for pike or casting for Kings that have just come in from the Great Lakes, then the ergonomics of casting outfits will make a believer of you. With spinning your casting hand wrist takes the whole load when retrieving and most of the load when fighing fish. With casting you cradle the rod in a way that shares the load more of the time. After many hours of casting/fishing/fighting fish with a casting outfit your casting hand wrist will be much less strained/tired.

It used to be argued that when line goes off the spinning reel by using the drag, it would get twisted. It would take a lot of revs to twist it significantly, I would think. I don't know if line twist is significant due to using the drag or not, but back when that argument was being made, I learned to backreel. I now use backreeling and the drag-when I screw up in the backreeling, the drag takes over and bails me out. I use 10-15 pound braid for 95% of my spinning fishing. I have to agree with the arguments that the drags on modern reels are very reliable and smooth and that relying on them is probably the most reliable way of playing and landing fish. If you screw up on backreeling, and backreel too much/fast, you can end up very quickly with no tension in the line allowing the fish a better chance to get off. One mistake I see made fairly often that could twist the line a lot is having the drag set too low and reeling in at the same time the fish is taking line against the drag.

Attaboy, Crestliner. I couldn't have said it any better (which is obvious, since I didn't), and I agree with you 100%. A nicely balanced approach to the issue. I might add that in my opinion, most losses of fish occur due to not doing the first thing my dad told me about fighting a fish- about 60 years ago - and not due to crushed barbs- "Keep a tight line." Many fishermen lose the tight line when they reel down. You can see it when their rod loses its bend. If the rod isn't bent, the line has no tension, and the fish can often use that as an opportunity to get the hook out. How many fish have you caught where the lure fell out as you went to take it out, barb or no barb? If your line is always taut, then the chances of losing the fish are much less. Yes, I know jumping bass change the odds, but the principal is still the same. Mick