MickD

I just did some internet research to try to find out the relative strengths of the Albright, improved Albright (Alberto) and double uni knots when tying mono to braid and found this: Both knots less than 50% of line strength Both knots between 90 and 100% of line strength Braid is really bad for knot strength which is why the line is much stronger than stated pound test-it is the approx knot strenght that is on the box. What the truth is, I suppose, will depend on your specific lines and your specific techniques. Sounds like a good winter project. I'll be tying them both and testing. As stated before, my experience would lead me to believe the truth is closer to 90 for both knots than it is to 50.

I have used the double uni knot for years and have never had one slip. period. The Albright knot is more compact, so will go through the guides better. Even the modified Albright is more compact (with Albrights the large diameter line only gets doubled while in the uni-uni it gets wound over the small line 4 times. This can make quite a large knot if using heavy flouro). I used the Albright only a few times last season and had no trouble, will be trying it more this next year. I retie after a couple days of hard fishing to make sure the knot and line near it don't get too torn up going through the guides. I don't have any data on knot strength, but I use 40 pound braid and 20 pound fluoro and have not noticed any of my uni-uni's or Albrights showing any weakness whatsoever. Remember to spit on them as you are pulling them tight.

The best outfit for flippin might just be a long cane pole and the same length of strong line. Couldn't resist. Please forgive me.

Cabelas-Really a good company that stands behind their stuff, has customer reviews on a lot of their product, and they have a good credit card that allows me to accumulate Cabelas bucks (which allows me to get more good sporting goods in a sort of stealth fashion, if you know what I mean-out of sight of the spouse). Also, if you travel out of the country, their card has only the 1.5% Visa charge on converting other currencies-most cards have the 1.5 + a few % of their own. Jannsnetcraft.com- This is a company I have bought from since I was a kid. Lots of things you cannot find anywhere else + the usual stuff. They also are very good in standing behind their product, and they ship very quickly. If you need netmaking, net fixing, hooks, beads, swivels, molds, rodmaking stuff, they are very good.

Here is a bullet-proof source for guide sets at about half off retail-salvaged new guide sets from rods damaged in shipment: http://stores.ebay.com/Handler-Custom-Fishing-Rod-Supply Here are two sites for sizing, locating, and how to do the Fuji Concept System on spinning rods: http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/staticguide.html http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/newguide.html The biggest mistake I used to make, and expect that it is not that uncommon, is using guides that were larger than necessary. There is no reason for the four guides closest to the tip to be bigger than size 6 ring on fresh water casting or spinning rods, and as previous poster mentioned, get the transition from the butt guide to the tip guide sizes done in about 3 guides, fast, not progressive size change all the way to the tip. Go to the rodbuilding.org phorum and spend some time reading there before investing or starting your rod. Use A size thread and keep your rod finish on the lean side on fresh water rods and the lightest, smallest guides you can - for best rod sensitivity.

Forgot your question about if more guides are better-generally more guides are better in order to better feed the line and to load the rod properly. But. . .you can have too many and sensitivity suffers from the weight of the extra number of guides. With casting rods that have the guides on the top you will need more guides than spinning in order to keep the line off the rod when it is flexed. For optimum numbers of guides, check out top of the line rods like Loomis IMS and St Croix Avids/Legends. 7 foot spinning rods often have 8 while 7 foot casting rods often have 9. It can depend somewhat on the actions of the rods. You'll notice that cheaper rods have fewer guides than expensive rods-reason of course is to control cost and offer a rod in the price range that more can afford.

More expensive guides are generally harder and lighter than cheaper guides. I've never had guides groove from line, and I use braid all the time, but I have had tip tops groove. They are easy to replace, and top quality tip tops only cost about $6 in most bass rod sizes. Go to: http://www.rodbuilding.org/read.php??,250628 for a chart that lists many guide ring hardnesses. I think Hardloy is Aluminum Oxide, but if I'm wrong someone will correct me. Are the more expensive guides worth it? That's up to the user to decide, but harder is better, lighter is better (use the smallest guides you can get away with for better rod sensitivity)-rodbuilder.org has some articles on that too- I use the finest of titanium frame guides (SIC or Nanolilte) on my top-level rod builds and lesser guides on builds done with lesser blanks, but always a SIC or Nanolite tip top. The only time I have ever had a guide failure was when I stepped on one in the boat, and I have had rods/guides from the cheapest to very expensive.

Getting back on topic, I used to have a few rear drag models, although only one was an old Symetre, and I never noticed any drag performance problems with them. I would expect a modern Symetre rear drag to perform fine compared to front, but I have no data. What the rear drags did do better than some front drag reels, they allowed for faster spool changes (button in center of spool would release it). Having said that, some front drag reels would do the same thing, although I don't think Symetres do. If a front drag model were lighter than a rear drag model, I would go with the front drag. Weight is more important than any performance/handling advantage I've ever found in rear drag. I would think that front drag is simpler to execute than rear, and simpler is better.

I have 4 of these reels, or a slightly newer version of them. One was a gift out of the blue from my dad, and at the time, it was state of the art for casting (narrow spool-free spool-with star drag), and I was in hog heaven. I bought another, and when my father died, I received his two. They are so special to me, but they certainly cannot compare performance-wise with even the cheapest reels today. I believe the reel shown in the pics has free spool and a star drag, as someone previously mentioned. I took one of the wide spool models to Canada to use for walleye trolling not long ago, just had to get these old gems back in the game, but gave up right away. The reel handle spans on these are so small compared to modern reels, I just couldn't get used to it. If anyone knows how to adapt modern handle spans to these reels, I'd like to know. The free spool release being in the center of the handle complicates the issue. I'm going to put one of them, along with an old casting lure, into a display box. They are pretty classy reels, and to me, they have a great history. Any good reel oil and grease will work fine with these reels-I've cleaned and lubed mine many times. Just don't expect too much from them-sort of like old cars-nostalgic, classy, and can get you from here to there, but not as well as the new ones.

The fundamental reason for using red line is that the color red only holds its color down to about 10 feet depth (ok, might be a little more or less). So the line companies came out with red line and advertised that it disappears at depth. The fact is that it does not disappear, but it looks black, which doesn't sound like all that much "stealth" to me. But I've not tried it, so really have no personal data. I think it is a marketing gimmick, however. It could possibly advantageous where you need a line to be visible above the water. Whether it casts and handles well and holds knots are all independent of the color and depend on the basic quality of the line.

You don't need a crankbait-specific SPINNING rod, you just need a 7 foot medium action fast tip spinning rod. The reason for all the crankbait-specific hype nowadays is because we went through a fad a few years ago when CASTING rods were all heavy action, and it didn't make sense for cranks. Just find a good MEDIUM POWER FAST TIP 7 foot spinning rod, the most that you can afford, look for sales, and it will do just fine. We sometimes get too tied up in hyper-matching or something like that and forget that they are just rods, not machines to get us to the moon. Buy a rod and go fishing.

I have no experience with the PT spinning reels, but I do have one of the ones that cost about $100, maybe a bit more, and it is my least favorite reel. It is not nearly as smooth as any of the other similarly priced or lower reels that I have experience with, like Symetres or Cabelas Prodigies (Daiwa). I seem to feel every tooth in the gear set on the Quantum and avoid it unless I don't have anything other to use. With a brand new linep of reels from Shimano, I would certainly take a serious look at them before buying.

I do most of my spinning with tubes, jigs, soft jerkbaits, and very small cranks, and while I've used both 6 1/2 and 7 foot spinning rods, I have grown to really like my 7 foot medium action fast tip rods. In searching for another blank to build from it is obvious that there are a lot more 6 1/2 foot blanks than 7's that are described as medium power, fast tip. It appears that I am swimming upstream while most everyone else is swimming down. Can you spinning experts tell me if I am missing something in favoring 7 over 6 1/2 for the type of fishing I described? Are there advantages to 6 1/2 that I've been missing? thanks, Mick

There was a recent post regarding this topic in which it was mentioned that cold temps could cause damage to the epoxy-I don't remember it talking about the graphite or glass being affected. I have stored probably 15-20 rods in my Michigan pole barn for many years and have had one case of handle cork loosening, no cases of any graphite or glass damage. I really don't think the epoxy failure was caused by cold, but have no way of really knowing. It was easily repaired. After reading the post I have brought my custom made rods in and hang them off the edge of my gun cabinet with a little hanging rack I made in about 10 minutes. Not taking any chances, but also it is nice just to see them as I pass by ("works of art," you know).

I always use a flouro leader a little shorter than the rod on braid-not sure it is necessary, and I doubt if it would be necessary flipping into thick stuff. Since I use 35-40 # braid, it will be about as big as 8-12 mono, and of course it is opaque. Guides I have been with won't use braid at all because they think it is too visible. Not sure of the truth. You need not worry about the "extra knot" if you use a uni-uni or Albright. The Albright is probably better since it is a more compact knot and will go through the guides better. I rety every couple days of very heavy fishing to make sure the line isn't getting weakened by constantly passing through the guides.

I agree that I have not found a flourocarbon line that I like for casting reels, but haven't yet tried the Yozuri Ultra Soft (actually a copolymer, not pure flouro) in 12 # that RW likes so much. All the flouros I've tried tend to spring off the spool too much. I used to use a copolymer in 14# that I liked, and lots of monos in the 12-14 # range cast well-they tend to be much softer than the flouros I've tried . . . but the best casting line I've ever used on a baitcaster was Fusion in 24 #-it had the best mix of diameter/body/stiffness/lack of stretch to cast and fish really well. Can't get it any more so am looking for a braid that matches its characteristics. (some braids are too soft IMHO for baitcasters, and while 35-40 Power Pro casts fairly well, I think it is too soft and tends to unravel when you pick at a backlash.) I always use a flouro leader a little shorter than the rod with braids/Fusion type lines.

RW, what does the Shimano backplay protect the reel from? I have many reels with one way bearings/clutches, Shimano, Quantum, 2 different BPS, Ambassador, and I don't detect any backplay on any of them, if backplay means spool rotation before the one way clutch engages. I'm either easy on this issue or I lucked out on all my reels.

Thanks Reelmech for your comments on the number of ball bearings that affect casting. I never could understand what all those bearings were doing, and even where they all were. May explain why my old Shimano Calcutta with 2 BB is one of the best casting reels I've ever had. In answer to one comment, yes I've used baitcasting for salt water fish, both the old Calcutta and a newer Quantum Cabo, and for certain kinds of fishing they are far superior to spinning. I think they are easier on the body for casting long periods, but where they really shine is bait fishing. When you want to let out line instantly, just hitting the thumb bar is much quicker, easier, and more reliable than trying to open a bail when the fish is taking line. When trolling sardines for barracuda the cuda often cuts the sardine in half, you miss the fish, but it comes back for the other piece if you can let line quickly enough. And when you want to stop the fish, engaging the spool is easier and quicker than closing the bail. For casting light stuff to bonefish, spinning is the best way, in my opinion. For either baitcasting or spinning, the quality of the drag is a major issue. Just about any drag will work for bass-not so for salt.

I have built two of these 843 rods from blanks, one for my adult son and one for me. We both love them. They are very sensitive in spite of being quite soft. I have caught everything from small bass to 15 pound king salmon on mine, and it handles everything very well. For casting the rods cannot be beaten (for lures in the 1/4-5/8 range) because they are very light, soft enough to load well, and being soft, are very easy on the arm. It is the best one handed casting rod I've ever experienced. Yes, I know I have not tried them all, but for the right range of lure weights, I think you will be very pleased. My son uses his for jig and pigs, too, and constantly comments on how sensitive it is.

Just saw your post on 30# braid. While really expert casters may find some of the softer braids at 30# OK, it is tougher to cast well than say 12-14 # mono. The old Fusion I liked so well had a diameter of about 12 # mono, and I think was about as stiff. It was much different than some of the 30# monos. Your 30# braid probably has a diameter something like 8-10 # mono? I expect I would have more trouble with that than heavier braid. If you like braid try going to higher pound test. The Suffix braid has words in its advertising that sounds like it may have surface bonding that may make it better than Power Pro for a BC. I have a spool but have not yet tried it.

Hey Reelmech, had a bad day? The issue of soft braid on a BC is not BS. Yes you have to consider the whole setup as a system, but soft braid is much more susceptible to getting slung away from the spool and then over the line as it leaves the spool, locking up the spool, or something like that. On a borderline case of it you can hear it hitting the frame of the reel, but it doesn't stop the spool. Stiffer mono just doesn't do it as much. And stiffer "braid doesn't either. If the line gets too stiff you have other problems. There is an optimum. You're right about a solution, but what the original writer described didn't sound like a normal backlash and tips to get him out of the problem, if he is using soft braid, would include not only resetting the reel but possibly moving to a stiffer braid or possibly mono. The best line I ever cast on my BC's was 24 # Fusion, and I've never found any line since then that cast as well or was as insensitive to changing lure types or weights. To almost match its performance I now use 40 # Power Pro but am going to try a few others that sound like they may be a little stiffer, and better for a BC. Some lines are better than others (think different diameters, different stiffness, different density) for BC and to ignore that fact is to not open the mind to all the possible fixes. If the writer is a relative novice he could use all the information pertinent to his problem, not just part of it.

While it is impossible to really know without personally checking it out, if you are using braid, z11541 probably has the right answer. Some braid is too soft and tends to do what he is proposing. If you are using mono of higher test than about 12, that phenomenon is not likely. If this is what is happening, using higher brake settings will help as will practicing a smoother, less abrupt, casting style. If this is going on, you usually can hear it happening, too, up until it actually stops the cast. If you are using braid and want to continue using braid, find a braid that is a little stiffer (pound test in the 35-50 is good for me in Power Pro, but if I get sloppy, what you describe is still on the borderline of occuring-can hear it). I use only braid on bait casting-love the sensitivity/lack of stretch-but it has its downsides and you may have found one. I use a fleuro leader of about a rod length attached with uni-uni or Albright knots.

Couldn't find what I thought I remembered from Reelmech. There is a lot of info on Rodbuiders.org and just do google search for spiral wrapped fishing rods.

It wasn't mentioned yet that there are a number of ways to do the spiral wrap. My last rod was done with the "simple spiral" as recommended by Tom Kirkman of the Rodbuilders.org forum http://www.rodbuilding.org/list.php?2. I think Reelmech has some good info on spiral on this site-will check and report back. My last casting rod was built this way and before I wound the guides I tried it with simple spiral, conventional, and a progressive spiral, and could find no difference in casting performance. You can easily demonstrate the advantage you get in fish fighting by taking a conventional casting rod, and load the rod with the rod in one hand and the line in the other, starting with the line directly under the rod tip. Generate a substantial bend in the rod with the line aligned right under the tip, then move your hand with the line outboard so that the rod is being loaded somewhat from the side. When your line hand gets far enough outboard the rod will snap over with the end guides now going under the rod instead of staying on top. The rod will have twisted 180 degrees in an instant. If when fighting a fish you always have your conventional casting rod pointed at the fish then you may not feel a difference, but if the rod is loaded from the side, then you will see and feel a conventional rod snap as in the experiment above. The spiral rod will be stable under any loading conditions, and as a result will be stressed less (no twist + bend, only bend). Rodbuilding.org has a library that had the instructions for the simple spiral, but in a nutshell it goes like this: Size and locate your guides in a normal fashion for your casting rod. Put the rear-most guide on top, and all others on the bottom, but in the same axial locations as if you were going to wind a conventional rod. Add an extra guide 1/2 way between the normal guides 1 and 2 and locate it at 90 degrees to the others. I put that guide on the right side so it will be up when I lay the rod down with the reel handles up. It should be no bigger than normal guide number 2 and should be a very low profile guide. Its only function is to keep the line off the rod during the transition from the top to the bottom, and it will be loaded, as all others are, directly in line with the foot of the guide (this is important on heavy duty rods).

The Loomis CB843 would be a very nice crankbait rod, and I use mine for spinnerbaits also, but most on this forum probably would recommend a little stiffer rod for spinnerbaits, especially with mono. I use only braid. I am not familiar with the rods others have recommended, but the people recommending them are credible. I always recommend erring on the softer side for casting rods since the softer rods are so much easier to cast and easier on the arm when you are casting all day. You want the casting rod to load like a fly rod, then release its energy to help the cast. Stiff rods don't do that unless you are using quite heavy lures. The rod must be matched to the weight of the lures to load properly. I personally prefer longer rather than shorter rods. The shortest casting rod I have is 6' 6", and I prefer the 7 footers I own to the 6 6's. With two fishermen in a short boat, I would revise that recommendation.