MickD

Since braid lasts so long and is so expensive, remember to reverse the line when you think it's getting a little old. You'll have a brand new braid line to work with.

http://www.getbitoutdoors.com/specials/blank-bonanza/50-60-off-high-modulus.html If I were looking to try recoils on a rod I think I'd do that on a finesse rod instead of a flippin rod. Above blank looks like it should fit what you're looking for.

Since in flipping you are in heavy cover, max stealth of FC is not needed, IMO. And the knot, if going through the guides, may interfere with the cast, even though it is not "hanging up." You may want to blacken or "camo": the last couple feet of the braid with sharpies. I cannot believe that the line specific gravity will affect the sinking rate when a 1/2 to 1 ounce sinker is used. Actually, the braid's specific gravity is about equal to that of water, certainly not significantly less. It doesn't actually float, it just doesn't sink. But it will when a heavy sinker is used.

What is YOUR definition of sensitivity?

You will most likely get a range of opinions on this one. My opinion is that heavy power is not a big sensitivity reducer, maybe not at all. I also believe, from experience, that all else being equal, the faster the action the better the sensitivity. My definition of sensitivity is the ability to detect information transmitted from the lure. I think your proposal for a rod, given that it is a high quality graphite, will work fine as you propose. One of the biggest things you can do for sensitivity is to use braid line. Some do this without a leader, others use either mono or FC leaders. I prefer FC believing that if you're putting something on to reduce visibility, nothing does it better than FC. If you plan to use the outfit for surface lures, use mono instead-it doesn't sink.

My favorite tube rod is my St. Croix SCV 7 foot, medium power, fast action. That may mean medium heavy in most brands, 181 CCS pennies, 77 degree action angle on my CCS rig. It will handle any bass I've ever encountered. But its beauty is in its sensitivity. If I had to prioritize one attribute for tubes it would be sensitivity. I also really like its 7 feet length compared to a very good 6 1/2 foot rod I have, better for both tip up and tip down working of jigs. Not cheap, but very very good.

OOmod, that is not a fishing boat. Fishing boats have all sorts of lures and plastics scattered all over the platform. You can't fool me. :-)

Better than a test light, get a cheap digital volt ohm meter at any auto shop, Harbor Freight, discount hardware store like American Eagle.Less than $10, maybe less than $5 on promotions. It will come in handy around the house, too. As Cmiller says, do a search for videos and learn how to use it. You are making much more work for yourself (and others) when your problem can easily be diagnosed with the right tool and a little knowledge. I agree it's most likely ground. Do a systematic check of the truck output: Check the ground for zero resistance to bare metal on the truck, like a bolt for example. Then check all the other circuits (when they are operating) for voltage with one probe in the output, and one in the ground. THIS WILL TELL YOU IF YOUR TRUCK WIRING IS OK. Then go to the trailer, while hooked up, and lights on, and check to see if you have voltage relative to ground at the components you are checking. If you do, might be the bulb. If you don't, most likely an open circuit between the truck and the component. Most likely problem is right at the connector. Make sure it's clean, and the female receptacles are actually contacting the males. I would not rewire anything until I understood for sure what is going on. If you cannot find the problem, then just think about how much trouble you will get into by rewiring and praying.

Above idea should work. The direct answer is that you can add a locking nut only if it will clear your guides and any forend. Not likely. I think I remember a person suggesting putting a rubber band around the seat at the hood, tied in a knot, right against the hood, to prevent it from moving. Rubber bands won't last long, so if this works you'll most likely have to do it several times a season. It is possible that putting some compressible material, like gasket material, under the reel foot will provide a jamming effect to keep the nut from backing off. good luck.

Make sure you don't have two things going on, one the casting technique and backlashes, and second, a damaged guide or tiptop ring. Check them with a Q-tip-if the fuzz on the Q-tip snags, you have cracked ring that will cut your line.

This is not the best place to get the info you want. Lots of bad info on DEET. Some good info on DEET. Anyone who uses 100% DEET is playing with fire, both from a health standpoint and the destruction of anything other than metal that comes into contact with it. Winn warned us at a meeting recently that Winn Grips will not stand up to DEET, and they were not even talking about 100%. It is my opinion that you will be able to find some fairly effective repellents without resorting to DEET. And there are some that contain low percentages of DEET that might makes sense if you are careful with its application and your equipment. And you wash it off after its use. But 100% DEET is outrageous. http://healthresearchfunding.org/dangers-deet/

An easier way is to use Sally Henson No Chip Topcoat for fingernails. It's one part, so no mixing, crystal clear, hardens very fast, seems very tough. I use it on replacement eyes on hard lures, glue them on then topcoat with Sally Henson for insurance. Very effective. Either way you want to get the lure really dry before working on it.

Thanks for the replies. I don't have any doubts about the importance of color; I've switched colors many times and changed the results immediately. But was curious about the combination thing, which I've never seriously tried to figure out, and thought others may have. My own experience with laminated tubes, those with one color above and one below, has not indicated that they are better than single color tubes. In fact, I think they may not be as good as single color tubes. With swim baits I think I have concluded that a chartreuse tail is a real advantage over a single color.

If I have found that color A is ineffective and color B is effective, will fish find the same lure in a combination of the two attractive or a turn-off?

Nothing absolute about the issue, use common sense. When I replace trebles I try to stay with the same size, otherwise it might affect the action. I use a 4x strength hook, a good quality sharp hook. If mulitples are on a lure make sure they don't reach each other, otherwise they may tangle. I think that's where shank length may be an issue, otherwise, I don't think it is. If the lures are collectors' items, it may be wise to find out what you're dealing with before replacing hooks. It may be that it would diminish their value. There are ways to get rid of rust.

If you are not already doing so, try using braid, about 10-15 in open water, 15-20 in heavy weeds, with a flourocarbon leader (15-20 pound, a couple feet long at least). Make sure you have a good, sensitive rod. If you're using something like an old Ugly Stick, you could be bitten by a pickup truck and not feel it. With the right equipment, just keep trying and it will come. With the wrong equipment, it may never come.

Out the side is the recommendation of one of the Inn-Fisherman experts. I haven't had enough success with either to have a personal opinion. I've used similar swimbaits out the top with good success as trailers on swimjigs for largemouth.

1/4-1/2 oz jigs, like the ones Siebert on the right makes, fished with trailers in the weeds for largemouths. Long casts, let it sink, they often hit on the fall, aggressive hook set. Works great for snapping the jig off the weeds. Try it, you'll like it.

That chip is so minor that, as others have stated, it will not fail the rod. If the rod blank is damaged, it most likely will fail. DVT has it right , in my opinion, but what I would do is to simply seal it off with a little dab of the Sally Hansen No Chip fingernail top coat. Dries instantly, crystal clear, and tough. The problem with someone not experienced with epoxy is that if it is not mixed properly before application, you end up with a sticky mess. This repair only needs a little dab to seal off moisture intrusion, and Sally Hansen is pretty fool-proof. don't cover the whole wrap, just the chip area. Sorry DVT, I missed your second post on this. Great minds. . .

both Simms and glacier gloves are very comfortable, long-lasting, and effective. A big store brand failed in my first week's use of them. Simms and Glacier for me now.

The FG is the smallest and strongest knot. I've heard all the tales of how hard it is to tie, but I've gone from trouble tying it to no sweat in about a dozen knots. It's not rocket science, and it's a great knot. I suggest taking some line and leader into the house, and while watching TV, just keep tying until you get it right. Notice what works and what does not. The most important elements of success with the knot are to make sure the weave is done correctly and the weave is tightened a couple times before finally pulling it tight. After that it will be a piece of cake.

Don't scrap the line. That line works like magic on a true modern spinning reel, lasts for years, and you'll love it on almost every reel around. I've never heard of this problem before, and I expect you'll have no trouble with the line o anything else. The only issue with braid is that some knots don't work well (slip) with it. Use the palomar to tie to terminal tackle for the most reliable knot. Some use flourocarbon leaders with braid, but that 15 pound braid is so small that I don't think you need to. Do a little "camo" job with a black sharpie on the last two feet.

One question you need to ask is how you are going to prevent the next rod from breaking? If the tiptop was deformed then some kind of abuse occurred. Tiptops don't bend themselves, and they don't bend from simple fishing. The abuse that bent the tiptop also damaged the blank. Anyone who has broken multiple St Croix rods is not treating them correctly. http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/rodusage.pdf

I went to a Canadian lake that I had fished for many years. The last year I went I fished the whole week without catching a single keeper walleye. I watched a good number of fish being caught, but I totally struck out on a familiar lake that I normally did well on. It can happen.

Terminator T1 white with chartreuse. Chartreuse is always good early in the season. Bluegill later on, but not out of the question. Above is just where I start, and if that is slow I try to find what they want.