MickD

The only way you will have any trouble running any line through micros is if you use line to leader knots, which you probably won't on this setup. Since flipping is such a low energy cast, you don't want anything to interfere with free flow of the line. I really think braid is the right line for flipping, to get the best possible hook set while in the slop and weeds. Having said what I have, I see no compelling reason to use especially small guides or especially large guides. I am building one with Fuji K series in size 5.5, using all KB's for max strength of the guide feet. That guide is now available in a new less expensive version with the Concept O ring. Log T I think?

From my experience with many brands of flouro the two big issues with flouro are that if it gets kinked it will break easily and if the knot is not lubed it will fail easily. But, even the simplest knots, if they are not knots that kink the flouro sharply, will work just fine with a couple extra turns and lots of spit, slowly draw them down, then push them quite hard with a thumbnail to "set" the knot. I test before starting to fish by pulling quite hard on the lure, but I don't get failures. I see the improved clinch knot recommended above, and I agree it's a good flouro knot when done as I mention above. Even the simple, unimproved clinch works well with about 7-8 turns and the method mentioned above. If the knot is "set" then the flouro is permanently deformed into the shape of the knot, and it won't slip as flouro is said to do. But don't kink it, and lube it well.

Unless you are a very good baitcaster, I would not recommend flouro at all. I know there are a lot of guys who recommend it, and I admit I have not tried all brands of flouro, but I have tried a few. I have not found one that casts anywhere near as well as mono. 15 pound mono, exc maybe for the extra tough stuff, will cast very well. And will work well for all lures including surface, which flouro doesn't work well on because it sinks affecting the action of the surface lure. If you want to try braid, which with its zero stretch is very sensitive, helpful for jigging/finesse, get about 40 pound test. Some like even heavier. But get a premium braid that is tightly woven. I prefer Suffix Premium Braid or their newer stuff with the gore thread. Without the gore thread it will have neutral bouyancy, like mono. With the thread it will sink faster.

REVS68MXF-SBAll purpose bass/Freshwater 6'8" 6-14 3/16-1/2 0.455 4.5 X-Fast 1.92 M $52.0 Rainshadow Revelation from GetBitOutdoors.com Everyone I have heard about who has built Revelation has been pleased. Another good option would be the Amtak Bushido series, find one that best meets your power needs in a fast or Xfast action. Again, very good blanks at an attractive price.

If "locked down" means what it sounds like, like no line will be allowed off the reel by the drag, then how do you prevent line breakage?

All the Daiwas I have are reliable, very smooth, reels. I have heard a lot of good comments on Pfluegers. One reason I prefer the big name brands is that some reel service people don't work on off-brands.

You have little to lose since it's no good now. There are two ways to salvage it, although I'm not sure you'll like the results of either. 1. Cut back to solid rod, no cracks, on both pieces. Buy metal ferrules to fit both pieces, if you can find the right sizes. Try Mudhole.com. This will result in a shorter rod with a flat spot in the action at the ferrules, which don't flex. 2. there is a slight chance that you can cut the rod back to solid rod and get matched tapers/diameters so that you in effect have well fitting integral ferrules. It will be chancy, and you cannot sand much off the male to get the match or it will be weakened. If you get matches that look like they will work, wrap the female with thread, top with epoxy. Wrap should be about 1 inch long to provide max possible strengthening of the ferrule. If nothing works, save the rod as pieces of the blank can be used for sleeves to repair other rods. Also, guides can come in handy for replacements for other rods.

If the braid is slipping on the spool you will see the line pack rotating on the spool relative to the spool, which will be stationary relative to the reel frame. If the reel has been taken apart, or if the sideplates got loose and you had to tighten them, then the release bar for the free spool may be out of its proper position. If this is the case take the reel apart again and experiment with the position of the release bar while the sideplates are slid into position. If these ideas don't work, I would take it to an expert or to the store from which it was purchased.

The main feature of a "cranking rod" is the moderate action rather than the fast actions that most other rods have. It means that the rod will bend farther down the rod rather than bending mostly just at the first couple feet. If you notice the pros on TV, almost all their rods are this slower action, sometimes called parabolic. The advantage is that it doesn't tend to tear the trebles out of the fish's mouth as faster actions do. This having been said, I think any action will work for cranks as long as it isn't too heavy a power. You do want the tip to flex rather easily. The best rod for cranks will be a moderate action rod that has the power matched to the weight of the lures that you intend to cast. I'm not familiar with the rods available; I build.

If you have had to tighten down the casting controls to prevent backlashes with the flouro try a soft mono of about 12 pound test. It should allow you to free up the controls.

Just thinking more about this, is the male ferrule intact? The damage limited to the female?

Looks to me like the cracks go way up the blank, so I think the only way to get a fishable rod out of this is to make it into a one piece rod. I'm assuming that the female ferrule is the main issue, and it's pretty well destroyed. I think if you found a sleeve to put over the messed up area and glued it all together into a one piece rod, it will fish well. But it's of course going to be cumbersome to transport.

Got a pic of it? Sounds like female ferrule broke, possibly due to coming loose while fishing. But more info is needed to determine the right approach. You won't be "buying replacement parts,"l most likely.

I agree that with that degree of destruction, the rod cannot be repaired to anything like its former self. And it most likely will fail again. Don't throw it away because the blank sections can be used for sleeves to repair less severe rod failures. http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/repair-oquinn.html

Need more description of the failure, but if the female ferrule has failed, you should be able to use structural epoxy to put all the parts back together, (an internal spigot or external sleeve will add to the strength) then wrap the full length and about a half inch on each end more, then finish with wrap epoxy. But with other failures, need more info.

Anyone who thinks color is relatively insignificant to bass and walleyes is mistaken. Just saw it yesterday on clear water smallmouths, Dream Shot drop shot lures identical to each other exc one had green flecks in addition to the black and purple flecks in the others. Interchanged lures quite a few times, green fleck far superior. Other times with walleyes, and ALL walleye anglers have experienced this, they will take one color far more than any other. The fact that walleye anglers have hundreds of color options in their spinner selections is not because they are stupid.

That is an excellent idea. You may want to try the Winn tape, really a great product, feels great, really good grip dry or wet. It you want to know what it feels like go to a big sporting goods store and you likely will find some rods with Winn grips. Will feel the same as the tape. Your way is reversible if you don't like it, easy to do well, and not that costly.

Sounds to me like you're really trying to get some cork under your grip position which is up from the butt a little. One way is to cut the knob off and install a whole grip onto the blank. Buy an appropriate grip and cut it to proper length by cutting the front where it will join the reel seat. Easiest is a grip that will be bored through, then add a butt knob that you like. Shape the grip at the front as you wish to get the transition you want. Bore the grip so it will slip onto the the blank. This will leave the front and maybe the middle a little loose due to the taper of the blank. Build the front and maybe middle of the grip of the blank up with masking tape to get a good fit to the grip. When glueing the grip on with epoxy be sure to totally encapsulate the tape. This will be a little costly, in my opinion, but will accomplish what you want. If you don't mind mismatching materials you can put a section of EVA right above the existing knob. Get the piece you want, bore it to size, slice it longitudinally so it will slip over the blank (using epoxy on the blank), then glue the slit closed with contact cement. Slit positioned on the bottom. Or, get used to feeling the blank. I don't mind feeling that nice smooth blank instead of cork. This will allow you to fish just about any shape without a problem.

Double uni takes more than 3 wraps. I use 5 or 6. Make sure you lube it as you pull it tight. Alberto's last step is important. You have to put the tag through the "loop" in the right direction or it will fail. I really don't see how any method of tying the double uni will make it "compact." Alberto is much smaller. I like the FG, smallest and strongest, a little tough to learn to tie properly, but once you get it, you'll love it. Search for YouTube videos on how to tie it.

Micros vs larger guides: Some say micros cast farther, maybe, but most good rods with bigger guides will cast farther than necessary anyway. Difference will be minor, IMHO. They don't pass knots as well as bigger guides, sometimes not at all depending on the knot and the pound test of the leader. The biggest difference is that since they are lighter, the rod, any rod, will be more sensitive than if it had heavier guides. The lighter the guides, the more sensitive the rod will be. This can be very significant, easy to feel. The higher the modulus of the rod the greater the difference.

You NEVER EVER sell a rod. If it's a good rod, use it. It is not possible to have too many rods. If it's not so good, give it to a kid who needs one. That's my spin, anyway.

Don't trust off-brands and cheap braid. Loose weaves collect water which causes the line to jump off the spool just after the start of the cast. Anyone having trouble with casting with braid should compare how their outfit casts in the yard vs on the water. Buy a high quality name-brand that has a very tight and smooth weave, if you're going to buy braid. I recommend, like so many others, starting with pure mono, the softer the better, in 12-15 pound test. When you get that mastered, move on to braid if you want more sensitivity. Forget flouro, in my opinion. Finally, don't even try to cast spinnerbaits up wind for a while. Concentrate on easy to cast lures like spoons and lipless cranks, and stay away from lures less than half an ounce for a while.

All braids are not created equal. If your braid is sort of a soft, open, weave, it probably is getting too heavy from carrying water. I've found that premium braids, like Suffix Performance Braid at about 35 pound test cast the best. But look for a smooth, tight, weave in the braid so it will shed water instead of collect it. They also don't dig in like some others. If this is the issue you should find that your current setup casts better in the yard (dry) than it does in the lake (wet). All the other tips above are valid, too, so work with your reel and technique as recommended.

I suggest you look for the sales to allow you to get the best rod you can for the money you're willing to pay. True that most more expensive rods provide more feel. They are also more fragile, easier to break if you don't know how to handle a good rod. Try to get the rod that is the lightest for the power rating and you'll be getting the best. You also can help the feel situation a great deal by using braid line, which has no significant stretch. I think that may be a bigger factor than rod sensitivity. I like no heavier than about 15 pound on a spinning outfit. http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/rodusage.pdf

Sure would like to know the guy suggesting you steal one, so I could make sure he's not near my boat at the launch. I think the only reasonable chance for avoiding cost here is to see if one from your old reels might work. Keep in mind that the cap is designed to apply an axial load to the end of the spool, so the details of its shape are important. Some have a "spring washer" in them to soften up the application of the force. Do it right and replace with OEM.