MickD

If you point the rod at the fish the stress on the rod will be zero.

Don't overthink it. Fish have been taken with many different ratios, actions, powers, lengths, etc for many many years. They all will work, and if they are working well for you, then no problem. As you become more proficient, and really get into different techniques, the strengths and weaknesses of your rigs will become apparent. You can then fill the greatest need when you are in a position to do so. When its priority becomes to you, number 1. And it will go on from there. Relax and enjoy your fishing.

Fuji has a very handy tool to help guide your line through the micros. It's as DVT says, the biggest advantage is a lighter, crisper, more sensitive rod. A disadvantage not yet mentioned is that they do not pass line to line knots as well as bigger guides. Yes, I know there are knots that will work with most pound tests and micro sizes, but the plain geometric fact is that a bigger guide will pass a knot cleaner than a smaller guide. If you're going to use fairly heavy leaders and fairly heavy braids, and want to use your old favorite double uni knot, you may want to go with bigger guides, bigger meaning only something like a 6, so they are not that big.

If selling you'll need to understand the tax law and file (fed excise tax), not sure if that affects repairs, probably not. You'd better be a LOT faster than I am if you expect to make a profit. After you build a couple rods and have recorded your time, figure that your time when you get good will be much less, but still may make your rods hard to sell while still making a decent rate for your time. I suggest you simply try a few rods for yourself, starting with moderately priced blanks and components, then decide if you really want to go on. If you have a fishing family, there will be "demands." Keep in mind that if you simply put together a lot of standard components, your rods will not be that distinctive compared to factory rods. If you custom make grips, butt knobs, do fancy thread wraps, you will have more time in the rods. Custom dimensions are faster, but still take time to make the decisions and plan the rods. I think those who actually make a decent profit in rodbuilding are very skilled, very fast, and very good business people. You will need to consider that when you sell a rod you are going to be expected to stand behind the rod, and many people don't know how to properly treat a rod. You WILL get failures. It may be in your circle that repairs may be more lucrative than building. Unless your tourney friends get their rods at deep discounts or free. Big decision, sneak up on it.

For smaller lures/trebles, just adjust your hook set.

Build your own CCS measuring device and you'll take all the mystery out of power and action. I've never tested Garcia rods, but from my experience, mostly with blanks or rods I built from blanks, St Croix spinning/casting are usually more powerful than you would expect from their description. There is a way to do the CCS testing without using a big sheet of pegboard. http://www.common-cents.info/

Looks based on the number of posts that most didn't believe the topic should be closed. I'll go go for a tube. Warm water, cold water, smallies, largemouths, shallow, docks, beds, deep, pike, muskies, walleyes. A little limited in heavy weeds, but that's about its only down side.

Buy some heavy duty ones, like for salmon, and report back. :-)

If one uses split rings that will handle trophy bass, it's pretty tough on the nails. The best tool is a very good quality split ring plier. I think Texas Tackle are excellent. The cheap sheet metal ones simply don't work, or don't work well.

Give it a try. There are two positions for them. Out, or active, or in past a little detent feel to make them inactive. I don't know how one can screw this up, I think they are either out or in past the detent . I suggest you put a drop or two of oil on the surface that the brakes run against, then put all the brakes out, or engaged. Adjust the little cap that loads the end of the spool until your casting weight falls slowly when the rod is held horizontal and the reel release is tripped. Try a couple easy casts. Any funny noise? Feel? Do they seem to be preventing overrun? If all looks OK, adjust them for what you think you need to cast well but prevent backlash. If something seems wrong, noise, gritty feel, anything other than smooth casts with no significant noise, then send it to DVT or another good reel servicer.

Look at your reel's schematic, you can find it on line if you don't have the sheet that came with the reel. Do you really want to get into taking all that apart and putting it back together? You don't have to, and I certainly am not going to. I've used many reels for many years, and except for dunking one for a few days, (I sent that to an expert for major clean and lube) I've serviced only as you suggest, take it down the first level only, lube from there. Maybe the level wind needs a little cleaning, but don't take a chance on a major dis-assembly. Light grease for gears, good oil like DVT suggested for everything else. Not that red stuff-it's inferior in quality, stick with clear oil like DVT suggests. I add a drop or two of oil to all moving parts, especially the level wind worm, a couple times a year max. And my reels work fine. Don't get too obsessive, keep it simple.

How about some details on what makes them worth the extra money.

I'm really surprised no one mentioned lube. You have a used reel and no idea of whether it has ever been lubed. Put a drop or two of good oil on every moving point on the reel (roller, bail pivots, grips, and into the hole where the handle goes, both sides) . Then try to get into the habit of closing it by hand.

I guess I didn't think one could trim so much that it would make a significant difference in whether the threads come into play either visually or functionally. I stand corrected.

I agree with those suggesting going smaller. You haven't mentioned your rod, but if it's short, hooksets will be poorer than with a longer rod. Also, a faster action sets the hook better than a slower action, in my opinion.

Or don't trim. What is the reason for trimming? Minimize weight? How much? almost nothing. Better looks? Not sure it's worth it. IMHO

+ watermelon black flake. KVD Dream Shot

I just don't think it gets much better than St Croix SCV , not familiar with the factory rods. But I think the absolute best rod will be the rod built by one's self on a Legend blank. Then everything can be as one wants it.

Ned is not a small fish lure, it is an all fish lure. Since there are more small fish than big fish, you'll get more small fish. But if there is a big fish there, it will bite.

In my opinion, hte secret is layering. I start out with light weight fishing pants, T shirt, and light fishing shirt. To start the day , depending on the temp, I'll have either breathable rain paints on over the light pants, or insulated pants on. On top, I do a fleece over the fishing shirt, then a wind shirt, then depending on temp, a hoodie sweat shirt or just a breathable hooded rain jacket. Very flexible, very comfortable. Don't forget an ice fishing fleecy hat over your billed fishing cap, and fingerless gloves or mittens with exposable fingers, and you can handle anything. Take layers off as it warms up. Very comfortable without spending a fortune.

Iron Silk only. Sorry for the confusion.

I've tried it in higher pound tests and see no redeeming value for it.

You are at risk with 6 pound test anything, but certainly with Vanish. Your lure will vanish.

I would contact the Duckett people first. There is no reason a guide will fail just because it is a micro. They must be using inferior micros. I have micro casting and spin rods that are years old, lots of casts, lots of fish, no problems.

Any suggestions for a reasonably priced (less than $150) 6 wt 9 foot 4 piece fly blank? Personal use experience will be especially valuable. Not looking for fast action, but somewhat slower, like a moderate or moderate/fast. thanks, Mick