MickD

That's the plan. This looks like a software issue to me. thanks for your help. 1.4 is current software for both 7 and 9 . Just checked. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

This forum seems to be operating like my helix, missing some posts. I got on the water to day and have images to show the differences in SI image in different views. Note that my Helix 7 up front is tied to the 9 at the helm and shows identical images as the 9. Sometimes the view will be fine, then it will switch to the asymmetrical one which seems to indicate that the water on the right side is about twice as deep as the water on the left. 09 shows what it looks like when you switch views from one that works to one that is "flawed." Software is 1.35.

Mono and braid are both about the same density as water, FC is about 50% higher, so on a loose line it will tend to slowly sink while the mono will not. But as mentioned, attached to a lure the difference isn't that great. The leader grade monos are very tough and hard, with the added advantage that tangling on something like a blade bait will be less. I think 8 pound FC, especially if it is not leader grade, is too fragile for both the spin and BC application. Since you don't use much leader the expense of leader grade leaders should not be prohibitive, and they are definitely tougher and harder than line grade (both mono and FC). I recommend at least 10 for the spin leader and 15 for the cast. For some reason, it seems to me when FC gets below about 10 pound test it gets pretty fragile.

Will do. Probably won't be on the water until at least Wed, but will try to get and post them.

Not all braids are the same. The digging in problem used to be a bigger problem than now because there were fewer "round" braids. Braids used to be sort of flat and the edge would allow the braid to dig in. I think there still are some flat braids. From the comments some people can use just about any pound test, but they may be using round braids and fairly low drag settings. I use round braids but I still keep my drags on the low side and generate more stopping power when needed with my thumb. It sounds like if you want a braid that will be fool proof with regard to this issue use a round 50 pound test braid. But don't set your drag to its max torque; keep it where you would have it with lower pound tests.

Thanks, Wayne. As I suspected. Which means more of a mystery as to why a SI image is different in a combo view from what it is in the single pane view.

I read it again this AM, about the third time. And I have gone through the Humminbird site numerous times. I think I'll get it figured out before long. The one thing I have not seen or heard of from anyone else is the asymmetrical SI display on certain views but not others. I also have not found the answer to this question, although I think it is assumed: When I have the SI full screen image up and make my SI settings, then those settings should apply to all views that include the SI image, right? Thanks for your help. I think I had seen your tip, but had forgotten. thanks. I think a four credit-hour college course would be about right for understanding these units.

Thanks, that's the plan. Again.

I'm not clear on the frequencies. I have Mega SI 9 and I think I have it set to the Mega transducer, ( I think it's the only one I can connect) but the label on my SI says something like 455 Hz, not 1.2 MHz. And the image is not a good as shown above. What am I missing? I expect it's in the settings, but I haven't figured it out yet. Back to the book. Any tips?

A proper knot properly tied needs no glue. In fact, I suspect that if one relies on glue, they may get a little sloppy in knot tying. I think that super glue is the most commonly used glue, and if the line is moist, it will cure almost instantly.

If you fish in waters with northern pike, wire is the way to go. I've had trouble with bands not keeping the skirt in place, but not with wire. Siebert jigs are very well done, but I avoid the one with the square hook bend, trouble with hook sets.

Don't wanna be a guide, don't wanna be a builder, don't wanna be resort owner, don't wanna be anything except head of new lure development of a major company. Fishing trips on company money, to the spots where the target fish are known to be, getting paid for it, some pressure, keeps it interesting, but nothing like pro-angler or guiding or chief operating officer.

I now have my Mega SI 9 with the second transducer as Humminbird recommends and the Mega transducer set up as close to further north's setup as possible, and it appears to be working well on SI at all speeds. The Mega transducer is toward the center of the boat, so lower than the second one. I may not have needed the second transducer. However, I notice two things, which I have to figure out. The SI works fine on most views, but on the combo view I would like to use, I get a good looking return on the left side, but one that shows much deeper water on the right. (The digital depth reading appears to be correct.) The SI image is not asymmetrical in the SI full screen view and at least some of the other views. I can't figure that out yet. Since it is view sensitive it cannot be that the Mega transducer is being blocked by the second transducer. If it were getting blocked I would think it would be an asymmetrical image in all views. Second, I go by docks with it and they don't look anywhere as detailed or prominent as in the advertising screen shots. I see the bright spots from the vertical supports, but barely. Still a lot to learn about these units.

Light threads on dark blanks are very tricky. Not only the CP has to be strong and well applied, but the wrap has to be very tight and packed well because any slight gaps will show as splotches. Some builders go to the trouble of painting the area under the wraps a color similar to the thread to minimize this.

Come on folks, this isn't rocket science. Just keep checking in to their web site. If nothing shows up, there is no sale. If something shows up, there is one! Man. . .

There is no doubt. This is it. Get him the weight that he can cast easily, put a white pork rind or grub on the back, and go for it. Good for you , Roger! All the suggestions for spinnerbait variations, spinners with trebles, etc, will just get snagged. If not getting snagged is a priority, this is the answer. You can cast it onto the pads, drag it, and the bass will kill it. Just be sure as suggested that you sharpen the hook and make sure the weed guard is bent so it's just above the hook point.

You can spool it with whatever you want. Use the drag to control the stresses to what you consider reasonable. However, I don't think 16 pound test mono will perform very well. Most likely will tend to coil off the spool. If you want to go over about 10 pound test, I recommend doing it with braid. 15 pound test braid casts beautifully. You may want to use leaders, but many go straight from braid to the lure and do well. Use a black marker to make irregular "camo" marks on the last few feet. With braid you need to be careful of what knot you use, palomar and uni with many loops are good knots for braid. Test the knot before fishing.

Themocells work if you are stationary, will little breeze (mosquitos, I don't know about black flies). Deet works too. It's a great destroyer of the bite and anything plastic or rubber it comes into contact with. And it keeps bugs away. Sounds like there are many options that don't included Deet.

You need to get this resolved properly to prevent your getting stranded due to no starting battery power. The low voltage shutdown means the unit is not getting proper voltage, and depending on your setup, that could mean your engine is not getting robust voltage either. I think you are right on the edge of not being able to start your engine. You have a trolling motor on that battery, too? If so, I think you are playing a risky game.

Very nice job. It should work great. One thing I noticed on your other pics is possibly a photo resolution issue, but it looks like the red wrap on the first Microwave guide is splotchy. If it is, it is likely due to one or more of the following possibilities: Not enough penetration of color preservative? The thread should be saturated, then the excess taken off with a paper towel. Only one coat of color preservative? I use two, both allowed to dry overnight before the next step. Not waiting for the color preservative to completely dry? If you don't give the CP time to completely dry, this can happen. If CP is done right the guide wrap will look very close to the way the thread looks on the spool, with no variations in color, and will look really brilliant (the reds). Looking at the photo again after blowing it up, it really looks like something is not quite right, with the area under the foot looking dark and a few circuferential light appearing threads. I use flex coat CP and flex coat lite wrap epoxy. If you purchased all from Mudhole, you may be using their CP, which should work fine, and their wrap epoxy, which I know does a wonderful job if one is patient enough to let it cure a couple days. In my experience it is the longest to cure of the epoxies. That is not a problem, just a fact. You should be proud of this build. It is much better than my early builds, and you will get better with every build.

There is one case in which the science of the line takes precedence over personal preferences, and that is fishing surface lures like a Chug Bug. FC sinks so readily that it adversely affects the way the lure works, so I always use a neutral buoyancy line, usually mono, for surface. Braid is about the same density as mono.

Oops. Thought you meant butt knobs.

Mudhole.com, http://www.winngripsfishing.com/dealers/

My 2D is outside, and since it is outside, it is naturally above a SI Mega transducer mounted so that it is close to the level of the water coming off the back of the boat (at speed). Since the 2D is working OK now, I will leave it alone for now. I'll lower the SI Mega to start close to your location and go from there. I have other obligations this week, hope to get back on the water next week. Thanks for your help.

Thanks, I'll start there with mine and see how it goes. Yes, I understand that boat differences will affect it, but think your spot is a good one to start with. It is going to be shallower than mine was originally installed, and deeper than the Humminbird location. Something near it has a chance of working, IMO, since it appears that what you are getting at speed is a fully wet underside of the transducer, possibly without the high turbulence that my deeper original location probably had. The Humminbird high location doesn't have a chance of working since it will be above the water coming off the bottom of the boat.