MickD

I have no experience with 832, but I assume it would sink, which is not what you want for surface. I have experience with Flouro leaders on Power Pro, and it doesn't work well for surface. It sinks and screws up the action of lures like Pop-R's, which get pulled downward by the leader which has sunk during the pauses. The braids which have not been designed to sink should work fine with either no leader or a mono leader.

I don't think leader grade is larger in diameter than line grade. It is stiffer and tougher, more abrasion resistant. Since it is stiffer it won't tangle on the jerk (actually on the slack line after the jerk) with blade baits as much as line grade does. If you have a presentation that requires soft line (what might that be?) then it would not be as good. Keep in mind that both FC and mono leader grade is used in crystal clear salt water all the time.

Any brand, but I like leader grade. Not much is used so a 25 yard spool lasts a long time. That link to the knot has been rendered inoperative, so if you need directions on the Alberto, send me an e-mail.

I've not used that part and am a little confused. The hood on the KDPS is floating, right?

Unless you really need stealth, stay above about 10 pound test. 6-10 is pretty fragile. Alberto is a good, small, knot, but make sure you tie it exactly correctly, with the tag end going through the loop from the correct side. Otherwise it will fail. http://www.***.com/fishing_knots/alberto-knot

Let's do a little review of the original post. Two Revo's, one with braid , one with Sensation (mono), both "work like a charm." Add a Revo and 12 # FC and he cannot cast successfully. Maybe the line isn't the issue with some people, but it sure as heck looks like it is with the poster. And with many others on the forum. Not everyone is skilled enough to make FC work. Not everyone is skilled enough to successfully drive a Farari. I'm done.

Got it, thanks. I missed the insert box. I don't think this is the same as the RyanDR was showing. Using an insert like this leaves a lot of threads exposed while the Loomis has them hidden. The Loomis has, I believe, an up-locking seat with a sleeve of cork over the threads and nut which hides the threads and nut. The method I was describing would yield a seat with a cork insert and no threads between the nut and hood, but there would be threads and nut exposed on the one end. A cork sleeve like the Fuji might be close to what RyanDR is looking for.

Can you tell me where in the Pac Bay catalog this part is shown? I cannot seem to find it in their 2016 catalog.

http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building/Graphite_4/Quick-Lock-Recessed-Cork-Foregrip-for-Fuji-HPS

My point is that the line is an important and highly variable component in the baitcasting experience. And FC is, in my opinion, too much trouble, too expensive, too fragile, without commensurate advantages over mono. I know there are many who can handle it. I can handle it under certain circumstances, but for reliably good casting, trouble-free fishing, it's not my cup of tea. And others who are struggling to use it successfully would be better served by simply going mono. I know this opinion is not universally accepted, but I think going mono is good advice for many fishermen.

You can almost match this by getting a skeleton component set, size 17 to make it a little larger than the usual 16, and construct your seat assembly from that set + a custom machined (I use a drill press and sandpaper, not as good as a lathe, but I have no lathe) cork insert. If the insert OD is such that the hood clears the insert, its length is not that critical. But if the insert is larger than that, the most important dimension is the length-the insert should be just a little shorter than the dimension between the hoods when your planned reel is installed. That ensures the reel will be clamped tightly. If the insert is too long you won't be able to tighten the reel down. This seat looks like it must have a cork covered nut, a nut covered by a cork sleeve. A long sleeve of cork coming from the rear. The front hood is fixed, right. Getting the big ID on a cylinder of cork is the challenge in exactly matching it. Unless you can find a component like that-Loomis must get them somewhere. Another challenge is getting the cork of the grip to match the cork of the sleeve and insert. If you can make them yourself out of rings, you can get the match. Fuji has decorative carbon fiber nut cover/sleeves, but not cork. I've done a similar seat except for the nut sleeve, and it is a very comfortable seat. Let me know if you figure out how to match it.

It's not the Revo, it's the line.

Easy fix. Take it off and put on mono. You can fool around with all the expensive and favorite lines of others, but to take the short route to good casting, go mono. Life's too short to try to make FC work. Mono is so easy.

It is not, in my opinion, a manageability trade in since stiffness is an advantage in leaders. It is, as others have stated, stiffer, harder, tougher than line. One application where it is clearly superior is blade baits. Being stiffer, it won't tangle on the jerks as much as a limper line.

As a last resort, if it doesn't work out, keep it for parts and possible sleeves for repair of other rods.

Use a Q-tip, rotating it inside/against the ceramic rings on all your guides, especially the tiptop. If cracked the crack will snag the fuzz on the Q-tip. Switch to mono.

If you're serious about helping them, trade rods with them. Then coach them as to what you were doing with it.

I think the only practical way is to bore a foregrip to the right size (slightly oversize of the blank so it will not be under stress when glued to the blank) based on measurements of the blank, then carefully split it, glue it on (wrapped firmly but not super tightly with something like electrical tape), then sand to eliminate the joint as much as possible. If the joint is too obvious for you, then wrap the grips with Winn wrap or similar product. I'm talking cork. I have not worked a lot with EVA. It may stretch over the micros, but I doubt it. Of course, all the guides can be removed, then reinstalled, but I don't think that is what you are asking about.

Flouro makes a great leader if you use leader grade flouro. Use the right knots and selection of pound tests and get the lure knot to be the weakest link. I use flouro leaders until they get too short, never having a failure in the length of the flouro or at the line to line knot (unless I've been lazy and not replaced that knot after a long time getting beaten up by the guides.) Having said all this, leader grade hard mono makes a great leader, too. I use whatever I have in the right pound test.

That looks like it might be an 8 mm. Because the ring is grey (it is grey, right?) it is not SIC, most likely hardloy or some other lesser ceramic. SIC is black. The frame is dark, but not black, right? I don't believe there is a current Fuji like this. Maybe others with more experience than I with other brands can think of a good sub. But you need to find your calipers and get a good measurement on the OD. Then look at a big supplier like Mudhole.com and try to find the closest match. Most important will be the frame color and ring color. The guide doesn't really look that bent. Is it mostly an alignment problem? If that is the case it may mean the guide is loose on the rod, that the wrap has failed. If that's the case, re-use the guide after checking the ring ID for cracks by running a Q-tip around the ID. Sorry I cannot be of more help.

Got it, have to replace it. I'd still give Shimano a try, but with a pic we may be able to help. Is it a single foot guide or double foot guide? It's probably a size 6 as there is no 7 and an 8 is probably too large. If the finish is darker than other stainless guides, it may be a titanium frame guide or a titanium oxide or other "titanium" framed guide. I'll bet it is a Fuji. I could find no reference to "Deportivo," so if that's an old rod, the guide may not be available any more. A close approximation will most likely not be noticed on the rod. But a photo will help.

Measure the O.D. of the ring to correlate with catalogs for guides. Sounds like it's probably a 6. Would help to have a photo of the guide. Have you contacted Shimano? If not bent severely, or to the breaking point, you may be able to bend it back to the original shape. Avoid involving the ring itself while bending. If you bend right at the ring it may pop out.

https://www.pricefalls.com/product/attwood-trolling-motor-quick-connectors/8129137 do a search on eBay , also.

Someone was having trouble finding a 15 inch Tennessee grip. To easily make one buy a straight cork grip from Mudhole, cut the tenon off, put your reel retention rings on, then add a fighting butt to each end. Look at the Mudhole straight taper fighting butts and buy two, then cut off so the OD at the smaller end matches the OD of the straight grip. Piece of cake, looks good.

I thought you were talking Helix, so the software spec I gave may be wrong. Go onto your unit and find out what version of software you have, then go to HB and find out what the latest is.