MickD

Thanks for all the suggestions; I knew you would have some very good recommendations. I know how much many of you love your boats.

I'd like to find a really good cleaner for my painted aluminum boat and the engine. Being black they show the light colored water spots, and I'm having trouble getting them off. Any really effective products in your tool kits? thanks

I agree with all above, and add that it may be that making modifications might affect how the reel works when reeling in. It might compromise the bail staying in place while reeling. I don't know if that is the case, but I will not be taking that chance. I'll just close it by hand.

I agree with everything you say. Regarding weights, I used to try balancing by adding weights to the butt with a BPS system, and by the time I got one old rod back then balanced, it almost left my hand when casting once. I build my own now and use hi performance blanks (light, expensive usually-the basis of my comments on expensive and power are that expensive will get you the lightest blanks and lower power will do the same, as will shorter) and I build as light as reasonably possible for the job to be done, and I never add weight to balance. The length of the rod below the handle is dictated by what I've found works FOR ME without hanging up on my clothing. I know that YOU can tell handling a rod without the reel that it will be good or not for you. But you are a pretty experienced, expert, evaluator of what works for you. I think the reason that one can say that reel and lure weight don't seem to play a major role is that the equipment most of us use is pretty light, and the lighter it is, the less important balance is. IMHO. Good discussion.

I'll bet the rods that you say are "balanced" tend to be shorter, lighter power, and more expensive than ones that you consider not as well balanced. Do you have a 7 1/2 foot MH casting rod that you consider "balanced?" And I'll bet you use very light reels. I agree with your comment on "depending on how you define balance." However, you also mention that every rod has a balance point, which is true. It is a point that is not affected by anything. It is what it is. It is the point on the rod where the left half and the right half weigh the same. Pure physics, not opinion. And the position of the balance point on the rod will be affected by the reel attached to it unless that reel weighs zero or is placed at the exactly same point as the rod-only balance point. We don't fish with just a rod, or just a reel; we fish with an assembly made from a rod and a reel, not to mention a lure on the end of it. (Man, does that affect the "balance.") The problem in discussing balance without having the reel involved is that less experienced anglers can be misled by thinking that what he thinks is balanced in the store will also be balanced when he adds his not-so-expensive relatively heavy reel to it. And a 3/4 ounce lure.

Based on your many astute posts, I'm sure you realize but did not mention that a rod does not have "balance" on its own. The reel is part of the balance equation. And the current trend to longer rods makes achieving balance harder.

Posting a photo isn't that difficult, but you do need to know how to access the photo files you want to post, preferably from your computer. At the bottom of the post form there is the 'drag files here to attach, or choose files." When you have access to the properly sized photo files, click on the "choose files" to select the files you want posted. The "files" are the photo files for your photos, and they will be a file with a name like "xxxx.jpg" and will be in some folder on your computer. The "choose files" will open a box in which you can navigate to the folder with your files, and select them. If your files are too large, open them in any graphics program, MS Paint included. In paint, open the file, then click on "resize," and fill in the form with a percentage, like 20 percent. When you have resized it, save it. Now you have the resized file and you can attach it with the "choose files" command as described earlier. Give it a try; we would like to see your rod.

How about just posting a photo here so I don't get tangled up with ads and pop-ups, etc? Never did see the rod. The reason the rod feels more sensitive is more likely due to guide selection than the fact that it's a spiral wrap. Smaller than normal guides? Or could just be a great blank. I've done spiral wraps, but do not perceive the "torque" problem on normal rods, and cannot get used to the appearance of spiral wraps, so do all mine on top now. Except, I like spiral for bottom bouncing and trolling, though. With those techniques the torque advantage is perceivable and is worth the funny look. I know, more opinion and preference than anything else.

If the small fish are eating the NED, try the big one. If I didn't have the NED, I would have very few fish this year. But I have caught a pretty good number of fish. Partner and I took 32 smallies last week, all on the NED. I tried lipless cranks, small slow deep cranks, hard jerks, soft jerks, drop shot, tubes, wacky drop shot, surface including the Whopper Plopper, and caught zero on those. Partner tried some of the above without any success. so. . . it was the NED again that saved the day. There are a lot of very soft takes on the NED, and bass will try to swallow them. Whatever they think they think NEDs are, they want to eat them.

Sometimes they work like a champ, and others they don't work at all. My best use of them comes in fairly shallow water, especially in the spring when largemouths are in shallow bays, mid-April to mid May in central Michigan. We reel them very slowly, and even let them kiss the bottom now and then with a little pause or slow-down. Trailer and color is important. A black really lively curly-tail grub or worm tail with a Junebug skirt is good for the above fishing. They are not one of my favorite lures, but when the fish want them, I give them what they want.

The level wind guide on most reels is about 6mm diameter, 1/4 inch, much larger than the line diameter. What she did was not pay attention to the process and the line was against one side of the guide or the other for the whole process. This is really not a big deal. I'll bet if you fished it for a few days it would all even out. But if you simply go to a ball field, take it off, and reel it back in, what happened to her could happen to you unless you pay attention and correct the line lay a few times while reeling it in. By correcting the line lay I mean consciously making the line run against the side of the guide that is coming up lean on line. This is not difficult and will work fine. Regardless of reel brand or line type. This thing is getting really "overthought," in my opinion.

There is a towing spec that changes at 3500 pounds total weight. There is a great number of rigs that fall below that, and what you describe will easily be below that. This means that most mid-sized SUV's and similar "box-shaped/hatchback" vehicles, which are great all-around vehicles will easily tow and be good, versatile, family vehicles, too. And they will get much better fuel economy than any of the true trucks, regardless of size. I personally don't care for jon-boats. I really dislike how noisy they are when small waves simply lap against the bow. Just a personal thing; many have no problem with the noise. I would strongly consider a 14 or 16 foot deep V with about a 25 HP outboard and a good trolling motor. It's only a small step up from less capable rigs, and this will allow you to actually fish the bay on a good day. Even if the weather changes, it will get you home. Check Craig's list for rigs where their owners are stepping from their starter. There are a lot of boats sold on Craig's list.

While I admit there are many who disagree with me, I am not a fan of glass. Graphite can do anything that glass can do and probably do it with a lighter blank. Graphite is more sensitive, most likely lighter, and may be more tolerant of abuse than some of the glass blanks. I have no experience with the ones you suggest. Take a look at the Amtak Bushido blanks. They are very high quality, sensitive, blanks at a good price.

Looks to me, based on the replies, that any reasonable length down to about 2 feet will work just fine. I don't find length to be all that important, but I also start at about 6 feet. For some reason I just don't like it going onto the reel, and if it gets really long then the advantage of the small ID of the braid is somewhat sacrificed and the whole system gets "softer."

You can also do a double uni to attach a mono or FC leader, then the more "conventional" knots will work fine. And you won't be cutting your braid off with every lure change.

Suspicions confirmed! I really think there is a lot more to great blanks than the highest tech materials. I have an RX7 spin rod that I would swear was a very expensive blank, and it's about a $60 blank. I think the Eternity may be justified for fly rods if it really is as tough (nano tech) as advertised since fly rods (at least my 8 bonefishing) takes some abuse in the boat and fishing.

I'm far from expert, but my Helix 9 was acting up on SI, giving only partial views in some combo views, and the solution was to update to latest software. Then it was 4.0. (Or was it 1.40?) Check yours, then go to the Humminbird site for instructions on update. BE 100% SURE YOUR UNIT IS RESET TO DEFAULT SETTINGS BEFORE UPDATING. IF NOT YOU MAY HAVE TO SEND IT IN FOR THEM TO FIX.

What this "ratcheting" indicates is that the threaded nut has failed under the foam. I doubt if any adhesive will fix it by itself. If you get the foam off and get to the nut I expect there are a couple of ways to make it serviceable without total rebuild. One would be to put a loop of wire over the nut, better two, and twist them tightly to provide a strong hoop over the nut. Bend over and trim the wire twists. Then cobble a cover for that, maybe cork tape + a wrap like tennis grip wrap or WinnWrap. Cover the other grip to make it match. Or first seal the crack with some kind of adhesive to prevent any epoxy from getting into the crack, then carefully apply a woven glass mat or carbon fiber sleeve (full 360 degree sleeve) to the outer surface of the nut, being sure not to get any on the threads. Then cover as in the first suggestion. If the nut has sprung open then you must wire it temporarily to close it while applying the second fix. Plastic nuts seem to fail sooner or later, so better to buy rods with steel banded nuts. Although in this case, how could one tell? Maybe DVT had a better idea.

I won't guarantee that the press and jerk method will work in this area. I can guarantee that you are going to have to do the whole operation yourself.

It is my opinion that the method you chose not to use would have worked fine. The barb would have been pre-loaded away from the nail. 1. Pinch the other two barbs down. 2. Put the loop of heavy line under the imbedded hook. 3. Press lightly on the middle of the two exposed hooks. 4. Jerk the line very fast and hard, don't chicken out. Some think that this method works only for small hooks, but it will work with pretty large hooks. I used it in Canada on a 2/0 spinnerbait trailer hook and it worked fine. No pain, no problems afterward. Of course the surest thing to do is to take it to urgent care. But as you point out, that is sometimes really inconvenient. The biggest mistake one can make is to cut the hook off too close to the skin. You did well by cutting it off well out from the skin so the cut-off end couldn't get covered with flesh. I would have even tried for a little more distance.

Must be good. I left 4 unopened bags in my car overnight and it was a little stinky in the morning.

Maintain the engine properly and 15 years will be no sweat for it. My last Suzuki 50 ran like new after 18 years, absolutely no deterioration in anything in 18 years (exc props). I expect all the brands will do that now that they have electronic fuel injection instead of carbs. Changed the lower unit lube, engine oil, plugs, and fogged it annually. New water pump impeller about every 5. (I run in clear water; if you're running in "mud" a lot , do it more often.) Outside storage is a tough pill to swallow. It really takes a toll on the boat: sun, rain, mice, tire deterioration, rusty trailer, probably a cover every couple years. Is it possible to put one of those "temporary" carport kinds of things over it? Rent a garage in the neighborhood? Move to downsize the house and upsize the pole barn? If you do, make it drive through. So easy to put the boat away. Consider an Ulterra trolling motor, power deploy and stow. REALLY better than sliced bread. Especially for those getting up in years. Money well spent. My new Lund has carpet on the upper surfaces, vinyl on the lower. Very nice.

Does the unit have latest software installed? Check your software against the latest per Humminbird. If you have to update it, make sure you have reset the unit to factory defaults. If you don't know how, read your owner's manual and consult Humminbird support on line.

I've never used a Suffix product that disappointed.

Try one of the Z-Man products, very tough/soft products. I think you'll be amazed at how durable and effective they are. When you buy, get some Ned rigs, too. I expect they will amaze you, too. Read the forum entries on how to fish them.