MickD

I have yet to find a double line knot that ties easily, and really don't think I need to. Trilene is easy, very strong, for lures, snaps, hooks, terminal stuff. Double uni for leaders to line where the size of knot isn't an issue, FG where it is. All three of these is pretty efficient for not using up a lot of line, and they don't care how many hooks there are on a lure, still easy.

Comments on line not lying down and rod buzzing when lifted indicate you're close to a lightning situation, and as mentioned, it doesn't have to be clearly a thunderstorm environment. It can happen miles from the storm . I repeat to emphasize the danger which one can find himself in, even without a thunderstorm. If you point your rod up and hear the buzz, get the heck out of there immediately.

Took the fully cleaned up and waxed boat out yesterday, today I used the Lucas mist on it, took only about 15 minutes and it looks like new. So the initial cleanup with dilute CLR, then Slick Mist wax resulted in like new appearance. Then the next time out, only the Slick Mist returned it to like new. Good process, thanks for the tips.

Sorry I cannot help. This is one of the reasons I let the pros do the serious service work. Reels are so complex today that I think it good judgment to let the pros do anything that requires dis-assembly more than taking the side plates off for access to the first layer, or changing level wind pawls. It's just too easy to screw it up. If you're like I am.

OK, you all can stop beating on me now. Original poster, if you don't have to replace that rod, it most likely can be fixed and will be better than new (no defect in repaired rod). I expect you'll have to send it back, but if not. . . If you need details post again. ' You could if you're a crook.

I only mentioned the previous damage issue since many don't understand just how fragile modern high modulus rods can be. Of course I have no way of knowing what happened to yours. Wow, not a great warranty.

When rods break under conditions you describe it is often caused by previous un-noticed damage, like striking the edge of a boat, stepped on, got whacked by another rod or a lure flying back, etc. Doesn't take much, if struck just right. Or, if the rod is pretty new and hadn't been cast much before, could just be a defect.

I do believe that micros result in a longer cast, but probably more important is the fact that lighter guides give a faster, more sensitive rod. There are disadvantages. They freeze up more easily than larger guides if you're fishing around 32F, and they will not pass just any knot. You have to be more careful about the knot and the pound test of the line and leader to be sure the knot will pass cleanly. I build all my rods today, and all have micros.

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I am interested in any data that says 105F is a problem for rod blanks. I know from experience as an auto engineer that the inside of a car gets to about 140F when soaked in the sun at around 100F ambient, and at least that will affect a hot glued tiptop. But I really think that blanks can take higher temps than 105F before being affected. Keeping rods from being subjected to "high temps" is good common sense, but I doubt if 104F will cause any problems. I also would like to see data that indicates that temps below 32F are a problem. Pretty convenient that the resins are affected by the temp of the freezing point of water. I keep my rods and reels in a pole barn, lots of exposure to temps of less than 32F, and I have both graphite rods dating from the 70's and glass rods dating from the 50's and they seem to be unaffected by the cold. I had a boss one time who said "Show me your data. Only God needs no data."

If you are going to buy motor only, consider Suzuki. My 50HP Suzuki was like new after 18 years, always started instantly and cleanly even the first start of the new year, and was quieter than my new 60HP Merc, both 4 strokes. Since Suzuki has no connection with a major boat company, you generally cannot get them as a package. But they are great engines.

I expect that on a lake with a lot of boat traffic the bass get used to it. Conversely, on a wilderness lake it very well may be the opposite. On Saginaw Bay and Lake St. Clair smallmouth bass often are found (active, too) in the dredged canals that boats use for access to launches. It is not unusual to fish these, getting out of the way of the larger boats as they use the canals, and then go back in to fish. The fish don't seem to mind. I have speculated that the boats may disorient baitfish making them easier prey for the bass. Also, if largemouths were concerned about boats they probably wouldn't hang out under docks. In this case it seems that they get spooked by traffic, but not for long. In a local largemouth lake the usual path for the wakeboat business goes through about 5 feet of water and the weeds are cut down in that path. Like a "road" up and down the lake, with no weeds but a couple significant edges. The edge of that path is a good spot to find largemouths, although I've not caught a big one there. That being said, I think that "unusual" boat traffic would alarm them, like fast motoring in an area where it usually is not done. But I'm not a bass. We will have to find a bass to interview.

I only used the word "monomer" because it was used in a previous post. Monomer: "a molecule that can be bonded to other identical molecules to form a polymer." I agree. There is most likely no single molecule line. I think this one of the strings that is getting way more complex than necessary. If you want your leader to not sink, use no leader or monofilament. If you don't care about buoyancy, use monofilament or florocarbon. Materials sold as "leader material" are generally harder and stiffer than materials sold as "line."

Every time I forget that I have FC leader on an outfit and use a pop-R or Chug Bug, and fish it fairly slowly, the leader sinks and screws up the presentation. If a fast retrieve, or walking the dog, I agree no problem. With mono, no problem with any retrieve. On my usual surface outfit, I simply use pure mono all the way. It serves also to slow me down on the hook set. Doesn't really slow my reaction, but the stretch helps slow the reaction at the lure.

If either of the monomers is FC the specific gravity will be proportionally increased according to the percentage of the FC used in the co-polymer line, right? If true, then co-polymer lines (with FC in them, which is really, I think, most all lines described as co-polymer lines) will sink faster than mono, which means their suitability for surface lures is not ideal. Mono is the answer. Or no leader (braid's specific gravity, except for those with the Gore fiber or other weighting scheme, is about the same as mono and water).

I think that co-poly is somewhere between FC and mono for specific gravity, so it too will sink, although slower than FC. Mono = about neutral buoyancy, FC = about 1.5 times the specific gravity of mono. Better to go no leader or just about any mono. Not rocket science. Leader grade monos are harder, more resistant to abrasion/rocks/etc, have the advantage of reducing tangles on some lures like blade baits.

. . . and all those car colors! We only need black! :-)

I also have trouble with the FG on light lines, but the good news is that you don't need the small size advantage of the FG on lighter lines. No way am I going to fool around trying to keep 30 turns straight and in good form when on the lighter lines the double uni is easy to tie, is reliable and goes through the smallest micros just fine. Keep what you are trying to accomplish in mind - a solid, reliable, easy to tie knot that cleanly goes through the guides.

I have one fairly new Patriarch and it seems like a really high quality, smooth, quiet, reel. The only thing that I find that is troublesome is that the dimension from the stem to the spool lip seems larger (more reach to the lip) than Daiwas and Shimanos. Not a show stopper, but something to be considered, check them out in a store and assure yourself that they fit you OK.

One thing to be careful of when buying rubber is the depth of the net. I bought one without paying much attention, and it's too shallow. Larger fish often can flip out of it. Look for one with a deep "basket." They are very nice with respect to getting hooks out, and I expect they are very gentle to the fish, being as soft and smooth as they are.

Replace the whole grip/seat/butt knob with a cork Tennessee grip. Use electrical tape applied with considerable tension to mount the reel, then go over the complete grip, including the area with the elect tape, with Winn Wrap.

I find that "really cheap" Stradics are really beat up used reels or from questionable sellers. A past model Pflueger Patriarch, new, is probably as good as it gets for $150. Shimanos and Daiwas are very good, but part of their price comes from the reputation. Pflueger has not yet built that reputation, but is coming on, and their reels are very good values.

We use vinegar on our faucets and coffee pots and it works well. I tried using CLR on an isolated part of the engine today, and it appears to work very well even when diluted about 8 to 1 with water. However, I'm concerned it may have some long term detrimental effect since protective gloves and water rinse are recommended. It may be that using something like it or vinegar to get the boat initially clean, then on a regular basis use Slick Mist is the way to go.

I'm not saying that. What I'm saying is that it might be possible that defeating the bail closure device could compromise the reeling of line with the bail manually closed. I'm not saying it would happen, but it is conceivable that the device that closes the bail could keep it properly in position when reeling with the bail closed. Defeating it could allow the bail to open when reeling with the bail closed. There also is the possibility that defeating it will affect warranty and resale value. There is no reason that I can see to justify defeating it when you can simply bump the bail to close it.

Quote me on this post, then as you are writing on the reply form, which will have this text on it, look right below where you are to write. As I write this it is right below here, to the right of the paper clip image.