MickD

What are you using the tape for? Curious, don't understand tape relative to this string.

If you want to spend some time practicing and perfecting, try the FG knot, videos all over YouTube, search for "how to tie the FG knot." It's the slimmest knot, and if done right, the strongest. But a lot of people have trouble with it. My suggestions to help are to use about 20 weaves, (if yours slips, next time make more weaves until it doesn't slip) make sure to pull it REALLY tight as you are setting the knot, make sure it's wet when you do, and put a drop of super glue on the half hitches (only the half hitches) when you're through. This knot will last a long time since it doesn't get beaten up by the guides. I find that the knot generally lasts until I have to tie on a new leader because repeated lure changes have shortened the leader too much.

While I agree it's probably not worth it, it is possible to remove a seat and replace it from the rear. The seat can be carefully cut with a Dremel type saw, longitudinally, a few times, then torn off. The grip or grips can be taken off by carefully cutting the cork/EVA off, cleaning it up. Finally, when all is prepared, use wraps of masking tape to provide the base for a new seat and grip, essentially removing the taper from the blank. Lots of work for little return, in my opinion. All my spin builds are done with up-locking seats. They put the fingers on a smooth surface rather than threads and allow me to put a ramp on the front, which is just about like having direct contact between the fingers and the blank.

Sounds like a business opportunity to me.

A local lake has a wakeboarding concession, and it appears that no one can wakeboard without loud rock music. I have to admit, it really ticks me off to have to listen to it. It could be any kind of music, but I would still resent the intrusion that it is on my enjoyment of the lake. We fishermen don't have to contribute to this. If you can't fish without music, please keep the volume down.

If you are not already using braid, try it. It will transmit vibration a lot better than mono or FC.

Best stereo for everyone else on the lake is none.

Regarding hardness. How hard is hard enough for max casting distance? The rings are not deforming, not being dented, not even wearing. The loading from the line is about zero when casting. If you can find a coefficient of friction difference, then maybe there is a difference in performance. But I think it will be insignificant compared to the other factors I mentioned. On most of the guides I inspect, they are coated in crud from the water and clean only where the line hits on the cast. So the line is also a crud cleaner. What won't the Torzite do? Torzites will do everything other guides will do. And if they are lighter, then the rod will be more sensitive. But I didn't get that sensitivity was an issue. If lighter, the rod will recover a little faster, and that's good. But lighter than what, and by how much? Check the guide weights between different identical geometries and the lightest will be the best. Enough to justify the cost? A torzite 20 mm KLH costs $41.00. One guide. I haven't priced the set for your rod, but likely about $200. If you are willing to pay whatever it costs to possibly get the absolutely longest cast, even if it only exceeds the options by a couple yards, then torzite is the answer. But you can do much better by simply going down to 20#. Keep in mind that wonderful striper you fear may not even be reachable with any 30# rig. And if you hook it on 20, you will have significantly more line on the reel. And if it gets close to spooling you, chase it. While you are setting up for a very low possibility, you are giving up the more likely chances at fish outside your 30# casting range. But yes, regardless of line, torzites are the best. But no

I just thought of another issue in maximizing casting distance. Are the ergonomics of the rod correct for max distance casting? You may want to cobble on an extension of the butt of a few inches and try it. Or maybe some other modification can help. Something to think about.

Agree with DVT. Guides can make a difference in distance, but it is not in the hardness of the rings or the cost of the guides. It's in the design of the guide set with respect to height, ring size, and progression. DVT is right on his recommendation of Fuji KLH guide train; I don't think Microwaves offer the same value or versatility. Or performance. I recommend using a three guide reduction train starting with KLH 20, then a KLH 10, then KLM 5.5, then 5.5 KB's to the end, number and spacing determined by a stress test. Look at the new Fuji Fazlites, much better corrosion resistance than past stainless, and moderate cost. Look at the Anglers Resource catalog for details on the guides and the guide train design. Torzites may offer an advantage for sensitivity, but that is not your priority. And any advantage they have come at an almost astronomical cost. Those who have commented on the advantage of lighter braid pound test are right on. That is probably the easiest, cheapest, most effective way to increase distance you will ever find. Two things to consider. Can you live with the lighter braids? The best guide train will have about 5 mm running guides, can you tie a knot that will go through those guides? An FG will, but if you don't already know how to tie it right, it will take some significant practice to master it. I truly believe your solution lies in the text above.

I agee, if it's still under warranty, return it. But, interesting to me is that if the sound were generated from within, where the grease is, I would expect it to not be described as a rubbing sound. A drop of oil right at the rotor/shaft interface might tell you if that is the area that is suspect. But, returning it before anyone really tampers with it is the right solution.

A ten pound fish can generate more than his weight in line tension. That doesn't mean that he cannot be landed on ten pound test line, but for a short distance, and with a little slack line to provide shock when it tightens, no problem to generate more tension than his weight. I've had king salmon, most likely less than 20 pound fish (since I never caught one bigger than 20, I expect the ones I've lost are less than 20, too) fail split rings with advertised strength higher than 30. With respect to braid line test, my casting trials have proven to me that 30 pound sacrifices casting distance with a stradic 400 and choker rings of 20mm. I use 10-15 almost exclusively, and think 20, with reasonable casting distance sacrifice, is as high as anyone needs for almost any fresh water bass fishing.

Use the sleeves you have, then cobble up a pad to go over the rods right at that rear cross member that accepts the butts of the rods. Then, if it does not compress when you close the locker cover, find a piece of compressible packing material to put on top of your pad, thickness as needed to provide compression when the locker is closed, and before closing the locker, put these two pieces on top of the rods right at the cross member. They will provide adequate force to keep the rods stable while travelling. When you open the locker, simply place the pieces under the rods until you pack up to leave. Very simple, effective, free. I used a camping sleeping pad piece and a piece of the blue compressible packing material that comes with electronics. Make sure no rod tip is bottomed out in the rod slots. If it is, that rod will likely break no matter what else you try to protect it.

Does it make the sound when reeled without the spool on? If no then there is some kind of contact between the spool and the rotor. You said the noise was there when the spool rotated, you mean the rotor, right? As in simply reeling in.

Understanding your question to be about smaller swim-baits, your rod should work fine, maybe a little overpowered. I say maybe overpowered based on my experience with 4 " swim-baits on 3/8 oz darter head jigs. My best technique for these on both LM and SM bass in MI is to drop them to the bottom, then get into a cadence of twitching them off the bottom, sometimes aggressively, sometimes more subtle. Sometimes even just nudging them along. Stiffer rods make it harder to get the right twitch, often leaving too much slack as I reel down after the twitch. With a slower action, lighter power, I can get a little more progressive, less aggressive, twitch that often works, and it keeps me in better contact with the lure on the drop. If the fish want a steady retrieve, any rod will work fine if it casts them well. I use white almost exclusively simply because it seems to work well on all waters and clarities.

Here is a good read that will help prevent failures, no matter what the material is. http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/rodusage.pdf

I strongly recommend going much longer on your next rod. Longer rods generally cast farther, but the biggest advantage is a much better hook set. A very versatile rod is a 7 foot medium power moderate or moderate/fast action rated for lures between 1/4 and about 5/8 or 3/4. It will work well enough with just about all techniques, and much better than your current rig. What reel? Whatever you like-there are lots of good, smooth, reliable reels out there. Pick a size between about 2500 and 3500, look for sales and step up to the next level. Changes from year to year on most reels are not compelling, and a past year reel can be a real bargain. About 40-50% off list.

Don't overlook American Tackle Bushido fresh water blanks. Very nice blanks at very attractive pricing.

I'm not an expert southern fisherman, but if one expects one technique to be successful 365 in the north, I think they will be disappointed. One unmentioned technique that can be very good under the right conditions, and can turn a day from bad to good, is the effective use of blade baits. Do it right and all is well; do it a little differently and you might as well go home.

Regarding your knot question, I don't believe there is any significant difference in diameters of FC or monos of the same test. Minor, yes, but significant, no. FC's are slightly smaller than equal test monos. So the issue is moot with regard to your selection of lines/leaders. Knots which work on one will work with the other. Just remember to wet the knots as you seat them. For what you are trying to do, I would make the heavy or metal leader short enough so it doesn't enter the tiptop.

I don't think there is single correct answer to the question of minimum pound test to prevent loss of lures to pike. Everything is a trade-off. The higher the pound test the higher the visibility and the more resistant to teeth. I would try one of two things, or both. One would be tieable titanium leader of about 20 pound test. It's pretty fine and not that visible. The other would be a 12 inch heavy flouro leader on the end of the regular leader-I would think about 40 pounds test would make a big difference, but it is not absolutely bite proof and is certainly not invisible. Buy leader material; it's supposed to be tougher than flouro designed to be line. There is also saltwater hard mono leader material that sure feels tough.

Most who use braid on a baitcaster find that 50 pound braid is about right for best casting performance. The biggest difference between braid and mono is that braid has no stretch, so it makes the system much stiffer, much more sensitive. You may find it too stiff for cranks. Since I have individual setups for most techniques, I have mono on my crank rods. I like braid for all other techniques. One way to soften it up a little is to use mono or floro leaders, just shorter than the length of the rod. Then you have a leader to line knot to consider, and with 50 braid and a 20 or so leader, a double uni will most likely not go through the micro guides well, if you have a rod with micros. Your normal terminal knots may not work well for braids, too, but there are knots that work.

Fishing from shore would lead me to a 7' 3" to 7' 6" length to maximize casting distance. Action would be medium fast to fast, not Xfast since you'll want to use it for cranks, which usually calls for moderate action. Power would be matched to the weight of the lures. For example, if I were planning to cast lures to 5/8, I would buy a rod with about that for the high end of its lure recommended weight. It will then cast from about 1/4 to 3/4 fairly well. This recommendation is predicated on having single rod that will do most things well, as you stated in your question.

I agree with Andy's point about your limiting the use of the rod if you go too small. Keep in mind that the reduction train is much less important to sensitivity since it is closer to the grip. I use KLH for all my spin builds now and if I know I'll never go beyond 15 pound test, I'll start with a KLH 16. For most, in the interest of versatility , I use a 20. I really don't think most people can tell the difference in sensitivity. I don't think I could, but have never done a back to back. For runners I think going below a size 5 is counterproductive. Doing so complicates the line to line knot and any fuzz on the water can be a problem. Earlier icing, too. By using a 16 or 20 with size 5 runners you will be building a very versatile rod that will cast so far with light braid that you will be amazed. And it will pass most of the easier to tie knots if using leaders below about 15 pound test. When micros first came in everyone, myself included, went nutso trying to do the smallest guides. Now we are getting smarter. And the rods work fine.

I was kidding. Plenty of colors, and still more. Looks good. I like the 4" Strike King KVD swimin' caffeine shad in pearl up here for smallies, snapped off bottom aggressively. But only 10 other colors.