MickD

I don't think IM 7 or IM 8 mean nearly as much to rod performance as the blank design. Since I don't know much about the rods you asked about, my mention above is just a comment to communicate that some of the best rods are not the highest modulus graphite. There is a lot more to it.

One other thing that's changing that may affect the fish is shorter daylight hours. Boy, I wouldn't miss September for almost anything around here; our fish, especially bigger fish (SMB) are really active in Sept. Might still be hard to find, but if you find them, it's a great time. As mentioned above, go now. I have, in the past, waited too long to start.

I believe the point the Dick's guy was trying to make is that you can get good casting qualities with higher pound test braid than you can with mono or FC. For example, I have trouble getting good casting qualities out of any mono or FC line over about 8 pound test, but can go as high as 30 pound braid before noticing a substantial reduction in casting quality. I usually use 15 pound braid, about twice what I can get away with with mono.

With your liking good hook sets I would steer clear of a ML power. I think you will be disappointed. I know it sounds like "vanilla," but Med power fast action will probably be a better choice. You who don't like XF action for jerks, will you please elaborate on your opinions? Is it because in order for it to be XF the tip has to be too soft?

If you let your boat float away, DON'T forget to turn the Ulterra switch on. I love the remote deploy and spot lock features. They work very well. The tracking with the GPS trying to hold a course, like 270 degrees, doesn't work as reliably. I don't use all the track memory and the other GPS stuff. I used to when I fished the same small lake regularly, and they worked fine, but sort of hard to remember all the directions to use them. I have an 80 pound thrust, a 60 inch shaft on a 165 Lund Rebel SC, and It's about right. I would not go shorter on the shaft.

I don't think there are many reels that will allow good long casts with no thumbing. When I have mine adjusted so that I don't think I am losing distance they will require thumbing through most of the cast. The thumbing at the end of the cast prevents over-run but also tends to straighten the line and flip the lure out so it doesn't tend to tangle as much as if you just let it fall. It depends on the lures (their wind resistance-how fast they lose speed), the wind, the rod action to some degree , and the line. Mono is easiest, then braid, then FC, which I won't even use on a baitcaster. I've never been able to make it work without requiring a lot of concentration, then one backlash and I'll probably break the line getting it out. I'm sure you are going to get a lot of very interesting and varied replies to this one.

For all around, as stated in the initial post, I agree with posters who recommend Med. Especially when you mention Lake St Clair which to me implies mostly smallmouth fishing. But early, even the largemouths are hitting small squarebills. Most of your fishing probably is with lighter rather than heavier lures, and the Med will load better with the lighter lures making casting easier and less tear out of small trebles on the squarebills. I use braid less than 15 with an FC leader all the time there. Good hook sets, good casting, good feel, usually with a med power spin, 7 foot. Don't worry about the length. The only thing I do that is done better with a MH is skirted jig fishing where the MH loads fine on the cast (usually 1/2 oz) and provides a little better hook set and snapping through weeds.

Regarding releasing fish, I read recently about releasing bonefish that if the fish is not dripping water, it's been out of the water too long. I've been keeping fish out too long, but will change my behavior after reading that. I'm not implying anything, but thought this perspective was worth passing on.

Take pics, release the fish, and find a replica taxidermist.

Most of the SMB I put into the live well come out with beautiful mottling in color. Regarding active feeding, this spring I encountered a few SMB that were actively feeding on the surfacel, chasing something that was white, small, and very fast right at the surface (any idea on what they were chasing?) in about 8 feet of water in Saginaw bay, and they looked absolutely black to the eye looking down on them. We only caught one, but it was very black. Not all that big.

There is a trip odo function hidden there in all the monstrous capability, not obvious, but it's there. Humminbird got back with me quickly with clear instructions on how access and use it. I have not tried it yet, but nice work Humminbird support!

As asked above, are you sure the wires are cut? I would remove the insulation to be sure, and if not, tape any damaged wire insulation, then tape the bundle tightly with electrical tape, then embed the whole area in high quality silicone caulk.

The last time I wanted a needle I went to a local big box pharmacy and bought one for a buck or so. Amazingly cheap. Get the biggest needle you can. Most likely after injecting epoxy, might be easiest to just dispose of it. Pharm can probably do that too. After you inject, you may have tracked some epoxy onto the grip; use alcohol generously to clean up. Keep an eye on the area until the alcohol has completely evaporated to be sure you got all the epoxy. If in the end you don't like the appearance or feel of the grip you can cover it with the Winn Grips wraps. Very nice.

I cannot figure out how to determine the length of a track, or how far I traveled in given day. My old Eagle had an easy to use "trip odometer," for I cannot figure out how to get that function on the Helix 10. I've asked Humminbird, but that takes a while. . . Anyone know this?

The reason I recommend Med over Med Light is that I believe feel and hook set is more reliable on a Med power rod for all but the Neds and similar really small stuff. I agree that the best Ned rod is Med Light. If you fish tubes and skirted jigs, I believe Med is a much better rod than Med Light. I prefer Med for drop shot, too.

Medium power for sure, ML is not a good choice for finnesse, IMHO.

Unless you can get the crawlers packed in the paper bedding, before you allow them in your boat, wash all the black crap off them, and pack them with wet newspaper topped with ice cubes. Don't allow that black crap even close to your boat. If you do, sooner or later you will get stains that most likely never will come out.

Split shot for weight, easy, fast, cheap, easily adjusted weight and position. Drop shot weights are not necessary, or even the best solution.

I would not recommend trying to get the grip to move if the bottom feels secure, just inject as previously suggested. You probably will fix it fine with injection, and that will not risk creating the bigger problem of tearing the grip. If that doesn't work, come on back.

Photo doesn't show the butt end detail. If the grip can be slid off the back, then you can get much more epoxy on the interface than injecting will provide. Cover the interface with epoxy, slide the grip back on, rotate a couple revs to make sure you have it all over the interface, and clean up with alcohol (denatured).

What year was the US intro year for the Airex spinning reel?

Tom, I agree with your first statement. If manufacturers published CCS data, we'd have the objective data, but they don't. A few blank manufacturers do provide it. The Action Angle CCS number tells the story on action, X-fast, fast, etc. Angles below about 70 degrees are probably moderate, 70 to about 75, fast, and 75 to about 80, X-fast. But I don't understand your statement about balancing the rod at all. By their nature, an extra fast rod will, for the same POWER as a fast (or any slower action), have a softer tip. This aspect of their action makes them, in my opinion, able to cover a larger lure weight range. The softer tip allows them to load with light lures, and with heavier lures one gets into the "backbone" thus loading well with heavier lures. Sometimes the softer tip feels a little floppy and imprecise, depending on factors I don't really understand, maybe the blank material of a particular rod. I don't believe that X-fast actions create any problems when using braid except possibly in the heavier POWERS. With what we normally call medium POWER, I don't see braid as a problem. Yes, these last comments are an opinion, not objective.

I have gotten ID info from manufacturers, but the fact is, the suggestion to TRY IT takes all the mystery out of it. It either works to one's satisfaction or it doesn't. All it costs is one guide.

Regarding the "extra" weaves on the FG. I have noticed that the FG isn't as reliable on lighter leaders. I've been doing 20-22. The problem I notice is that the braid half hitches come loose when snapping swimbaits off the bottom, so doubt if extra weaves will affect that. A drop of super glue works well. thanks for the info

I don't see any issue with your setup. There is absolutely no risk in using lighter with respect to damaging anything. Any line on any rig can break if the pull exceeds its strength. You can protect the line with your drag. I really don't know where the manufacturers get their recommended line ratings. I've heard it relates to the dead lift capability of the rod, but I'm not sure. Recommended lure weights are pretty good indicators of power. You ask if the line (I think you mean the 10 pound test leader) could break on a cast or hook set. Yes. On a cast, especially with the heaviest lures you are using. On a hook set, probably. Pay attention. If it turns out to be real, just go up on leader test-there is no difference in casting distance with different leader pound tests. Just go fishing and then react to any issues that turn up. They won't be damage to the rod or reel. By the way, how did you end up with 35 weaves on the FG? Seems excessive. I'll bet only about half of them are working to grip the leader. Cut one of them apart and see if the leader is "kinked" for the full 35. I would like to know what you find if you do it.