MickD

If you have never used a modern graphite rod and have only used the old black Ugly Sticks, DON'T try a modern graphite rod. You'll have to buy a whole bunch of new rods; you will not be able to go back. I'm serious.

Having that end piece is very good news. A good rod-builder, or even one who is not experienced, can fix this rod so that its action change with the repair will be essentially not detectable. Follow the instructions in the link. Only an external sleeve should be needed for this one, and while glass is best, graphite will work almost as well. The lower the modulus the better. https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/repair-oquinn.html

Baitcast? How about a short review on the Hitena Pureline. I have some 21 # (.006 in diameter) on a spin tube rod and it acts like about 10 # braid. Just short time experience with it, but I'm impressed.

I don't catch any really big smb these days because my shoulders are so bad that I can't hold the fish out that far any more.

That little band holding the hooks together!!! Orthodontics bands? Why didn't I think of that? That may be the most valuable observation I've made this year. Thanks!

I submit that it is the same. The acceleration of the lure is different between braid and mono/FC. Or put it this way, you can do all kinds of jerks with braid, but you cannot get the really quick twitches with mono/FC, especially with a soft tip rod. With northern smb, they sometimes want it really quick.

I used to use DBN's ALL the time, and the gel-craw was the best bass color I tried. Didn't see or try the goby, but it simply has to work on smb. I found for some reason that the DBN outfished the DLN in identical colors. Their retrieve depth worked great in 4-8 feet water depth.

Sometimes one just cannot get the sharp jerks/twitches that the bass want with mono or FC. But braid, with its zero stretch, will do it. Even with a leader. The Gore fiber braids sink, as does FC. Better hooks sets, too, IMO.

Don't hesitate to use the Humminbird e-mail customer service. They have been very good and fast for me.

In my opinion, you don't want any mono or FC for that rod, considering your long distance casting requirement. Go with a braid no higher than 15 pound test. 10 pound will cast a mile and has the strength so you won't have to be "tender" with it. Braid is usually considerably stronger than its stated pound test. The only mono that will cast like you want is probably 4 or 6 pound test, and they are too fragile for me.

Take a look at the very extensive St Croix Avid offerings-they have to have something that will work. Don't confuse power and action ratings. What you want is a fast action in my opinion, certainly not moderate, possibly XFast. It is true that St Croix will most likely be more powerful than the others at the same power rating, but not that much. I find the St Croix line in fast action fine for what you want. My favorite rod for most of your techniques is a 7 foot medium power fast action St Croix Legend, but it's too pricey. The AVids (SCIII) are great rods, not that much below the SCV for performance. I would choose St. Croix or Loomis over the others if you can find the power/action combination you like.

A quick dunk will not break the grease down. You may be really looking for something since you dunked it. Opening the reel is pretty easy, no need to take it down any more than checking the condition of the grease on the main gears. It may have been ready for some attention before the dunk. Leave it open in a warm place for a while. + a drop of oil at all pivot points, bail roller, grips, etc. As stated many times above, it should not be a big deal.

No thanks. Spent too much $$ already. I'm good with what I have.

You can get braid that sinks-has the Gore fiber/thread. I don't use FC for anything but leaders-have burned a lot of money on it without finding one that handles well. Mono for surface, of course.

Didn't cross any ethical minds.

In my opinion, pulling a 4 pound fish into the boat with just about any rod is asking for failure. I'm sure proper technique in doing it can cut the risk, but it's still risky. https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/rodusage.pdf

Dead nuts on-target response, DVT. I've done many repairs of this type and have never had a complaint on the action or power of the rod after repair. I even repaired a fly rod that needed both internal spigot and external sleeve, and the CCS numbers did not change from when the blank was new.

I would recommend graphite, will most likely be lighter than any glass you can find. I'm sure someone will correct me, but any action and power that can be done with glass can be done with graphite. And most of the time it will be lighter and more sensitive. The most important part of the power question is that the recommended lure weight should fairly closely match the weight of the lures you will be casting most of the time. This is because if a rod doesn't load well on the cast, it will be difficult to cast. Most like moderate to moderate-fast for cranks.

The units on which you plan to display the data from the one SI transducer have to be capable of displaying it.

Don't worry about braid. Usually the only guide to get grooved will be the tiptop, and they are easily replaced.

That's what my son has told me many times. Says he doesn't want to waste a lot fishing time looking for the body. ?

I didn't know BC reels had cupped drag washers, but loosening the drag between uses on any design seems positive. Unless you're taking a long elaborate process to set it. Which I don't do.

It is my impression that the reason to loosen the drag is to prevent the drag washers, the compressible ones like felt or other non-metallic material, from taking a set. For BC and spin, same principle. Steel springs should not take any set unless they are compressed into the plastic zone. The plastic zone means that the steel has yielded, and won't recover. No one designs a spring such that it will be stressed so high it enters the plastic zone. That's instant failure. I hope your bait shop guy is competent-these new BC reels are pretty complex. Would be easy to screw it up.

That sounds rational. :-)

I might have missed it, but don't see mention of varying speeds. Seems to me that with "fat cranks," very slow retrieves are often the best. Coupled with the already mentioned stop and go.