MickD

My 60 hp Merc is only 2 years old, and have had no problems. I tend to agree that with proper maintenance that failures will occur earlier rather than later. Which means I won't be purchasing the extended warranty. In general I believe that if the warranties were not in the manufacturer's interest (thus not in mine) they wouldn't offer them.

Interesting how things work. For some just fine, for others not so hot. I had trouble obtaining hook sets with this hook on LMB. Based on a few fish that I (barely) caught it appeared that the "corner" of the hook just off the barb was contacting the roof of the fish's mouth keeping the point away from penetrating. I bent the hook into a more rounded shape and got better penetration. I really do like the designs/variety of patterns/quality/full skirts of Siebert, just am not convinced that that hook shape is right.

Some recommend scuffing the old epoxy with a Scotchbrite pad or similar. But use nothing else but the mild abrasive, no alcohol, for example.

I believe the new Ugly Sticks are nothing like the old ones, but haven't tried one myself. I'm going from their descriptions. The old Ugly Sticks were simply awful, IMHO. Heavy, floppy, poor sensitivity. After I started using graphite I could never go back.

My mistake. Readers who doubt .ghoti's comments should keep in mind that he and I are speaking about action and power changes as defined by the CCS system. Which I believe is the only objective system for measuring action and power. http://www.common-cents.info/ I agree with earlier comments that trimming from the tip almost invariably results in an action that is unpleasant to the user's "feel" when compared to the original blank. Before cutting from the tip use a guide down the blank the distance you want to cut and try it out. The guide may be simply taped onto the blank and will last long enough to evaluate. Before cutting from the butt move the reel seat up the distance you are considering and try it out. Never do something that you cannot undo without cobbling a way to try it out first.

Have you seen the Winn grip tape, a lot like bike handlebar tape or tennis racket tape exc its surface is the same as their grips. I think it's about $10 a roll of 8 feet. Easy. Mudhole.com and other rod builder supply outfits.

My point is that with FC and mono the most sensitive rods still will not be very close to their potential for sensitivity. Regardless of the rod, the biggest improvement in sensitivity will be when one switches from FC or mono to braid. Since sensitivity, as far as I know, cannot be objectively measured, it is an opinion. No data, just my subjective observations.

If you are not using braid don't expect much from a high end rod. If you are using braid and a high end rod then you are fishing the most sensitive combo possible. With any rod the biggest gain in sensitivity is to use braid. An FC leader of reasonable length will not cost significant sensitivity.

The software is on the Anglers Resource web site. http://anglersresource.net/ As stated before, I would do a 20 stripper KLH-H (first guide) and then it goes 10 KLH-H, then 5.5M . these are called the reduction guides. The next guide, your first runner, is called the choke guide. I advocate using the 20 rather than the 16 because if you later decide to use heavier line, it will work better than the 16 setup with negligible down side. If you haven't gone to the Anglers Resource site, do it. Read all about the KLH guides, watch the videos, run the software. But software is not really needed. Put the stripper (the 20) at about 20 inches from the tip of the reel shaft mid-point (it moves fore and aft, use the mid travel point), put the next two so you can look down through them and see a bulls-eye, then place the choker (first runner) to get the bulls-eye, then move it out just slightly. Locate the rest of the runners based on your stress test, and you've most like got it. Test cast, and move the three reduction guides in an inch as a unit, then out an inch as a unit, and go with what feels best. As mentioned before , don't over think it, but take advantage of the resources offered by Anglers Resource.

This person has a need for special ergonomics which to him may be more important than balance. But if he wants to re-balance the rod he can slide and glue some lead sinkers into the sleeve or blank end to adjust balance. It won't take much since he is only taking off an inch or two of blank, which is pretty light. Smallieaddict, if you think you'll want to re-balance it then check it before you start to find the balance point, mark it, and when you do the rebuild add weights to get the balance point back where it was. Keep in mind the rod will be heavier. I generally do not add weight to affect balance, but this may be a case where it is warranted. Your choice. Cobble it together with tape to be able to try it out before final gluing.

I've been to bluegill ponds where the fish get riled up anticipating feeding as soon as people show up on the shore.

One summer when working around a small pond I conditioned LM bass to eat bread off my thumb. Started with them about 5 feet away and slowly moved them in closer until they would eat it off my thumb. Then one day, I plucked a big one right out of the water. And released it immediately.

I find it interesting that the use of mod or mod/fast actions is so extensive in the pro tournaments. You can tell the actions by how the rod curves when they are under stress, and there are a LOT of rods in use there that are neither fast nor extra fast. For all techniques. Meanwhile, it seems that we in the "normal" fishing population seem to be demanding faster and faster actions. There are certain techniques that just cannot be done well with slow or fast actions. Like snapping 5 inch swimbaits on bullet jigs off the bottom. Similarly, I think blades are more effective when using a mod/fast action. Of course the power has to be right, too.

You can try, but consider that you've chopped off a piece of blank with a butt knob on it. How to clear the old blank piece? Maybe someone has an idea I've not thought of. If you try it, most likely will require a rotating tool of some sort, high speed would be best, but be sure you wear google type eye protection. You will be making a whole bunch of little sharp things from dust to significantly bigger. I suppose if the rod construction isn't very good you could get the blank out by applying heat and try to pull it out. If you can do this then you can build up the blank OD to fit and glue it back on. Easiest way to do this is to wrap the blank with thread. Won't take much. Worth a try.

How much do you want to shorten them, and are they full cork grips or split grips? If full cork, just cut them off, round off the end of the cork to a pleasing curve and put an auto interior trim bumper from O'Reily's (look in their interior trim fasteners display for a bumper that is about 5/8 in diameter, sand the areas that will contact the epoxy to get rid of mold release agent) on it. Using epoxy. If split grip, then I don't think you can salvage the butt knob but will have to buy new ones from a source such as Mudhole.com. You'll have to ream the piece to fit the blank. Use epoxy to glue it on. If you need to plug a hole in the end, use the process above. To cut the blanks you have to be careful to avoid splintering them, very careful. MOst builders use a high speed tool such as a Dremel abrasive wheel. Tightly tape the blank where it will be cut before cutting it. Move the tool very slowly. Be very sure of the length before cutting. You cannot put it back on. ?

What does "moderate fast tip" mean? Is the stated action on the rod "moderate fast?" The action description one the rod (M/F/ExF) refer to the rod, not the tip. If it is a St Croix heavy power it is most likely too powerful to properly load while casting 1/4 -3/8 jigs. It is the power that you want to match with the weight of the lures you want to cast. And St Croix's are a little more powerful than other rods with the same stated power. If the lure weight recommendation on the blank states a minimum of 3/8 and it's a heavy power St Croix then I think you will be disappointed in casting lighter lures. It will do it, but a MH power would be better. If you have two rods which are of equal power and properly matched to the lure weight, one a fast action and one a moderate action, the moderate will be easier to cast with baitcasters than the fast. By easier, I mean fewer backlashes, a slower casting action on your part, less arm stress. Faster actions will develop more force in hook sets with less rod travel than moderates of the same power. The Daiwas in the $100-$200 price range are great casting reels. As is the Curado.

I have tried both name brand and "non" name brand braids, not all of course, but my opinion is that some of the "nons" tend to tangle more than the name brands, some tend to fray more, some are thicker. You never know what you're getting with them until you use them. On the other hand, Power Pro is good, Suffix is good (everything Suffix is good), and I'm sure many other name brands are good. They have their brands to protect, so it's doubtful you'll get a lemon with them. A new one I just found is Hitena. 21 pound test is only .oo6 dia and it casts like Power Pro 10 pound test. Pricey, but excellent. Maybe you generally get what you pay for?

The software you want is "KR GPS" shown prominently in the column of items on the left side. I suggest you open all the videos on the guides that are available there.

You say high frame KR and concept, but the high frame guides are KLH. Are you asking about KLH? I believe everything you need to know is on the Fuji (http://anglersresource.net/) site. Open the site and look at the catalog. There is guide placement software there (Be sure to use the right software for the guides you plan to use-there are at least two sets of software there-if your results are really strange, you probably are using the wrong software) plus recommended KLH combinations based on the line you plan to use. If you are using KLH on fresh water spin I would use the reduction group starting with the size 20. It is more versatile than the 16. If you use the 16 and want to go heavier on line, it won't work as well as the size 20 group. If you use the 20 group it will work with lighter lines just fine. The difference in weight, especially since the reduction guides are not near the tip, will have no significant difference in sensitivity. I have settled on size 5 runners for spin, 5 1/2 for cast. You're right, the KLH guides are called "KR Concept." They are all I use now. One thing to keep in mind is that they are tall-that's part of their advantage. But they might not fit into some rod tubes.

I agree with those advocating 10-15. 20 pound with most braids will cost some distance. I just tried Hitena 21pound test and it is great stuff, but expensive. It is only .006 inch diameter and casts like the lighter pound tests i've used. I don't use any mono, hybrid, or FC on spin, exc for FC leaders. The biggest improvement in sensitivity one can make if they are using mono or FC is to switch to braid, any braid. Much more improvement than rod sensitivity, in most cases.

Since you are in the north, waiting for the next big sale and then striking should work. You aren't missing fishing time, most likely. When is the next "sale date," like Black Friday? Ebay sellers with 99+ % approval ratings can be trusted, in my experience. But as all are saying, find a rod on sale as far below its list price as possible, and you'll have a good rod at $60.

WRB has it right. Here is a test article. https://electrek.co/2016/04/08/tesla-model-x-tow-test/ It is my opinion that there is some misinformation in some of the other posts. The good info is what Tom said and the advice to get your info from your dealer.

Not quite. When you want to go from retrieving or trolling to giving line quickly and easily, spinning cannot do it as well as baitcasting. Not as big a deal with bass as with some other species, but it's a fact. When you want to go to freely giving line instantly, spinning cannot do it. You have to open the bail instead of just hitting the thumb bar. An example, trolling for cuda-they notoriously cut the bait in half and come back for the part they missed. Which will have the hook in it. Easy, efficient, with baitcaster, not at all easy and fast with a spinner. I also prefer the more "direct" connection offered by the baitcaster for some techniques, but I admit it is a preference, nothing like a show-stopper.

Everyone who builds rods knows everything. But our knowledge does not always agree. But it works for us. Will it work for you? Whose advice will work for you? Part of this is due to the fact that people work differently and under different conditions, but often don't realize it. So two builders who give you conflicting advice are not lying, but what works for one may not for another. You take all the advice, consider it carefully, try things out , and see what works for you. I'll give you a couple of what I consider important tips: 1. check out https://www.rodbuilding.org/list.php?2 2. Before executing a decision, consider if there is a way of testing it out before getting into an irreversible condition. Like going down a mountain. Don't drop into a place where the only way out is farther down, then you find out you can't go down that way. But you can't go back up. For example, if you think that cutting 6 inches off the butt of the blank is the thing to do, don't start by cutting. Start by taping a reel seat on where it would go if the blank were 6 inches shorter, and try it. 3. At least at first , don't even consider tweaking epoxy mixing instructions, just do it like the maker says. Don't thin it, don't heat it, don't alter the proportions, just use it as intended at the temps intended (cold can be your enemy) until you're much further along. It will work well if done right, as the maker intended. 4. Don't ever cut off the tip of a blank. Doesn't take much to screw the action up, and there are thousands of blanks our there, designed by experts, that should be the length you want. 5. Record the specs of the rods you build, guide spacing, guide details, thread specs, epoxy used, component specs and spacing (reel seats, for example). Then if yo have to repair you have the details needed, or if you build another off that blank, you don't have to go through the guide spacing process again. Oops , more than a couple

Has to be the cold. Couldn't be the truck. ?