MickD

Cork is not soft, so if you can get about the same shape as a trigger it will work as a trigger. You only use one side of the trigger, and the slot in the cork is about the same. EVA is not the right material for this. Good luck.

This is what I'm proposing. If the rod has an adequate foregrip on it now it can be altered like this. Do the slot on the bottom, then do a slot on the side where your finger wants to access the slot. Be careful, you cannot put the material back on. And be careful not to touch the blank. Better to do a new foregrip because then you can get a lot of blank exposed. If this is not what you were trying to accomplish, please clarify. thanks, Mick

I think what he is after is a second trigger at the front of a conventional casting seat. I see two possibilities, the first as I mentioned before, add a foregrip and contour it to provide a finger notch which will work like a trigger even though it does not look like one. The second option that might work is to add a skeleton cast seat trigger piece up front. Easier said than done on a completed rod, which is why I think the first option is the better.

Does this give the second trigger that the OP is looking for?

I was in a big box store today and looked over their rod selection. I'm sure glad I'm fishing with my rods rather than what I saw there. Even one of the top manufacturers of the USA didn't show me much. Guide wraps that look like footballs, rods all black with black wraps, guides with big fat ugly rings, grips and other parts nothing special. One rod I wanted to see was the Ugly Stick Gen 2. Still not, in my opinion, a very good rod (heavy, not the greatest workmanship). Of course there were some big names missing, and I hope that a couple of them are doing better, but what I saw was very revealing to me. I hadn't done it in a while. IMHO With the introduction by Fuji of their Fazlite line, especially in the KLH configuration, it is now possible to have world class guides for a very affordable price. There are great blanks available in the $60-80 range. So, in my opinion, custom rods are getting more affordable than ever. All the components can be had for about $100, even to those of us who don't buy wholesale. I expect my opinion is not news to you.

My Lund has carpet on the upper surfaces but a hard vinyl or something like that on the floor. I really like it for easy clean up.

Ever kill one by dropping one of these on his head? Couldn't resist. All the heavy stuff mentioned above is not unusual in MI, especially the lead for deep fishing in the summer. Don't rule out small tubes, though. Last spring we found some friends who were doing well in about 8 feet along a wall using tubes. Took me a while to catch on that they were using small tubes. When we switched to small tubes the strike rate went way up. Also the jerks in less depth. As mentioned smallies will take some pretty big jerks. I think I took a small one last year with a jerk about 1/3 his length.

To original poster, are you sure you are not experiencing braid digging into itself? The deeper it goes the higher the resistance? Probably not, but worth considering.

I've had so much success with anything Daiwa lately that I would go Daiwa. Since Ned fishing is a very "lightweight" technique, I would go no bigger than 2500 size, could go smaller. 2500 is a good all around size that can be repurposed to many other techniques.

24 volt TM setups run on 1/2 the current of a 12 only if they don't develop more thrust. If they develop more thrust and you use it they are doing more work. If you never use their higher thrust capability, or use it rarely, you will see an increase in time to discharge. But it's not quite as clean as "twice."

Every outfit has different strengths and weaknesses. You need to define your priorities. If distance is one (It would be for me if I'm fishing from shore) then go longer, up to 7 1/2 feet, fast action, power to match the weight of the lures you will use. I like the comment about going for a finesse outfit, keeping your current one. But the 7 1/2 footer most likely will not balance as well as a 6 1/2 footer. With finesse your tip will be up a lot, so maybe not so important. If sensitivity is one high priority consider using 10 pound braid either with or without an FC leader. This will enhance distance casting , too. You can get some very nice spinning reels for well less than $200. Everything Daiwa is top notch. For spinning, especially finesse, I think the big money should be in the rod, not the reel. You can get very good reels for $100-150, but money spent over $150 will be well spent on a rod. Look for combos and/or sales, take some time, don't be afraid of Ebay sellers with 99 + % approval rating.

I have enough trouble casting spinnerbaits in the wind without adding FC to my troubles. I prefer braid for spinnerbaits. Much more sensitive than either FC or mono and it casts well. I use 35-40 pound braid with a FC or hard mono leader.

If your rod has a cork foregrip you can "notch" it to provide some shape to accept your index finger. Don't get into the blank with your notch. It is not impossible to add a foregrip. Buy one of the diameter, length, and diameter you want, ream it to an approx good fit to the blank, split it and glue it onto the rod, then finish it. Done right, the split line should be pretty unobtrusive.

After the early shallow bite I think your odds of finding them are pretty slim in Erie. Once they move off it will be too dangerous to go for them. At that time find some largemouth bays.

Go fishing, don't worry about the guides. I've used braid on my old cheapo rods and never had a guide groove. Tiptops, yes, but these were old very cheap rods with guides/tiptops made long before the current braids. Most tiptops are a piece of cake to change. If you have to come back here and ask for advice.

My most important "tool" is the mailing address of a good reel repair pro. The reels are getting too complicated for me to be taking them very "far" apart, even spinning reels. Don't even mention bail springs to me.

For heavy lines and leaders the FG is the best because done right, it is the strongest and smallest of the line to leader knots. The problem with it is that most people have trouble learning to do it right, and as a result they have a number of failures before they figure it out. The easiest, most reliable, (probably most popular) hardest to screw up, line to leader knot is the double uni . Search for a video (I posted one here just the other day) and you'll find it a piece of cake. Just lube it as you set it. Its only problem is that it gets pretty big with high test leaders. Others will suggest other knots, but keep in mind that what works for some doesn't seem to work for others. The FG didn't work for me at first, and many other knots don't work for me ("don't work" means I get surprise failures with them.

The rod shown above is the result of putting too much priority on weight and not enough on ergonomics. After using that rod all day, put an old full seat/full grip rod into the user's hands and he would think he was in heaven.

There must be something wrong with me. I never thought about it before. :-) "it" being kayak fishermen.

FC is the most expensive line of all. Because we keep trying to find one that works well and in the process we buy a dozen, take them all off, then buy some more. Lots of partial spools left. None on the reels. Good that you are going that light. Might work. But you will be losing sensitivity.

Braid to flouro with a double uni is easy and very reliable. While you're watching TV practice. I'll bet when you do your "wraps" you are not going over both lines with the wraps. Inside the loops. I think that's about the only mistake, other than not wetting when setting the knots, that there is to make with the double uni. I prefer knots to swivels since I can have a longer FC section without worrying about winding it into the tiptop. this video is very clear, but it does not mention wetting the knot before tightening it. That is very important with any knot.

Yes. Many custom builders do just that with their builds. You don't need to chip anything away for what your pic shows. Don't make a mess of a simple project. Remember the "dry wall principal." There comes a time when anything you do will make it worse. Just recoat it.

Leaders need be no longer than 4-5 feet. I like to use FC designed as a leader material. Much more expensive, but you don't use much, and I believe it is much tougher than FC line used as leader. Its stiffness also helps keep blade baits from tangling on the cast.

Two very good choices. Not hot sauce oil and grease. They dry out, stain everything, not good choices.

I have done so.