MickD

Sorry, I think I got my companies mixed up. Sounds like you're way ahead of me.

Might be a good idea to call UC and check availability of the blank you choose and get a solid commitment on ship date.

I have no EVA because many years ago I had "black foam" grips deteriorate due to UV exposure. I have no confidence that the newer materials will be any better. They must be somewhat better since no one is mentioning UV problems. I have Winn and like them. Winn grips have EVA inside, but the surface is not. I trust Winn has done its homework relative to UV.

I should have been clearer that different steels will have different heat treatments and therefore could react differently to the hot lead. If you use many different hooks you should test a sample of them all. I expect most will be unaffected, but the only way to tell is to test.

txchaser is right, depending on the steel the transformation that will cause steel to change some of its properties can happen below the melting point of lead. I think the best approach is to test your worst case jig hook against a new one by simply pulling on a strong line with the jig attached at its eye and the hook point being pulled into soft wood. This will apply a bending force to the hook, and if the change in strength is significant you should be able to find it.

Sounds by your description that you are very close. Leave it there until you're on the water again, then when on the water move it down just a little, eighths of an inch at a time. When I used to cobble my transducer to a boat provided by the resort it would make a lot of splash if too deep, but it would read correctly. When I got it right it didn't make much splash but still read correctly. If too high, didn't read. You might have someone else drive the boat and observe if you have an obvious area of smooth water somewhere on the back of the boat while at speed. Uploading photo files is easy if the files are not too big. Set your camera or phone to low resolution to minimize file size, get the files onto your computer, then it's simply click the "choose files" and browse for the files on your computer. Select them then click on "open" or "select" or whatever command your computer uses and they will load and be sent. I can't help with sending from a phone. My phone is smarter than I.

Took my grandson fishing, he was about six. As we left the launch, about 200 yards out, he was standing behind me as I steered from the helm. "Grandpa, it's getting a little wet back here." Forgot to put the plug in. Grandson didn't think it was a big deal. Son disagreed. (we both had pfd's on) Another thing that can help is to put some of that sand coated tape onto the horizontal fins on the lower unit. It helps prevent slipping when using the lower unit to get back into the boat. How do I know that? Never mind.

Try launching your boat with the rear tie-downs still on.

To help in the future I offer this method for hook removal. In this case cut the treble off the lure so you only have one hook to deal with. I have used this method with hooks this large and it works great.

A-Jay, would you care to tell us which of those reels is your favorite, brand and model? I think I see a few Calcuttas there? I used my old Calcutta 150 the other day, still a very nice casting reel.

My experience with the same troubles on a new Humminbird Mega Imaging transducer is 1. You can make it work properly by locating it exactly right, depth and tilt, but it's hard to find that sweet spot. 2. Another transducer can be added. I'm not sure my experience translates to your transducer, but that's what I went through.

Build that rod and I'll bet you find yourself using it fairly often. Smaller cranks, like squarebills, for bass-it will be very useful.

Or just get a scale of the proper range and read the weights directly in ounces. https://www.amazon.com/Accuracy-Electronic-Calibration-Weighing-Portable/dp/B0736QWVT2/ref=sr_1_11?hvadid=77721779360511&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=digital+mini+scales&qid=1555365333&s=gateway&sr=8-11

Rodgeeks has an exceptional support group, so contact them, ask your questions and get the answers from the source

I see this concept is hard to comprehend.

It would not have broken if you pointed it directly at the log, but you did it the right way. I'm just pointing out that if the rod is not bent, it cannot be overloaded. (You might fail the reel or the reel seat) We control how much it bends by how we control its attitude relative to the load.

I have a scale that weighs in all units. It is not that capability that is important. The important thing is that your scale must be matched roughly to the weight you are trying to weigh. Regardless of units. A bathroom scale, regardless of its units, will not weigh the weight of lures, or epoxy proportions, or any other "light" weights accurately. My scale is designed for , and is accurate, in the range of 0-10 oz or so. And is accurate in whatever other units of weight I want to use. It's not about the units.

The rod sees not the line pound test but sees only the drag setting. And most reels' drags are capable of only 12 pounds or so, some to 20. So use whatever line you want to use. Just use the rod properly. You can fail a rod with 20 pound test as easily as 50 pound test. It's sort of like a manual transmission clutch. Treat it properly and it will last forever. Mistreat it and you can fail it in less than a minute.

Tom, respectfully, it's not about the units. The lures were listed in oz and on what appears to be a calibrated scale, they are heavier than advertised. If your point is that you need a scale properly sized for the objects being weighed, right on. You cannot trust a postal scale for 1/4 oz lures. I have never weighed lures. While often a skeptic, I never saw a need to.

I think most monos on the market are nylon. There are different types of nylon. I think most of us consider that a copolymer line is a single filament line that is a mix of nylon and FC. And has characteristics of both but not exactly the same as either. Sort of a compromise that is easier handling, higher density than nylon, and possibly less visible than nylon. Nylon is a plastic, a thermoplastic (meaning it can be melted in contrast to thermosets which don't melt) and it is a type of polymer. Polymer is a chemical compound with long repeating chains blah blah blah. . . There are many different kinds of plastics. When you mix different kinds of thermoplastics you have a copolymer. Like what we consider a copolymer line. But as Tom says, ANY plastic that consists of a mix of plastics is a COPOLYMER. It could be nylon, FC, polypropylene, polyethylene, or any other thermoplastic.

I wasn't as skilled at finding the good FC, and have a goodly number of partials hanging around. Maybe my problem is associated with not being willing to spending major money for a spool of line. About $17 is my limit. And still nothing stood out. All of the FC brands I've tried have been more susceptible to backlashing and more susceptible to being damaged while trying to get the backlash untangled. I would describe the FC's as being "very fragile." I've been trying a good number of name brands, not no-name lines.

The best way to try FC is to find a friend who swears by it. Then ask him if you can have a few of the partial spools he has left from his search for an acceptable FC. He most likely will have quite a few.

What is the diameter of the first guide on that rod? Could be braid going through the guide is making the noise? Maybe the guide is too small? Put some wax on the lip of the spool, let it dry so it forms a matte film, then make a couple casts. Is the film disturbed? If not, the noise is not line to lip contact. If it is disturbed, it might be that contact that's making the noise, although I've never heard it with probably dozens of reels and all kinds of line. But I have heard line to guide contact. Keep in mind that when casting with a spin outfit, there are no moving parts exc the line. So it's a pretty simple system.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I presume everyone who is upgrading bearings is not adding any friction with the cast control features of the reels. That would seem to be counterproductive.

If you notice your surface lures not acting right, especially the walk the dogs and poppers which rest a while, then change copoly to mono for the leader. FC specific gravity is about 1.5, meaning it sinks pretty fast. Mono about 1, so it doesn't sink, it just stays where it was put. Copoly logically would be somewhere in between, which means it most likely will sink. Daiwa reels really work well. I'm with Daiwa from now on.