MickD

https://online.flipbuilder.com/myart/kqin/ This is a good one. HFFcustomrods.com sells it.

I'll not use it under certain conditions, like where thick weeds or other cover would make it problematic trying to get fish out of it. Most of my fishing is in pretty clean water, so it will work for most.

It's fun to cast really light lures on a baitcaster. If you don't want to use 4 pound test, don't. Try 10 pound braid with an 8 pound leader. Or 8 pound mono all the way. There are many ways to enjoy BFS. But if it's all about landing the big fish, maybe it's not the right technique for you.

To keep them off the bottom tie a "drop shot fly" instead of a hair jig and fish it drop shot. It works.

Build your own, then you know exactly how it's built. Seats come "both ways," sized to the blank and one size for all with a sleeve between the blank and the seat. I use the Fuji ACSM seat which is ordered to fit whatever blank I'm using. No sleeve. Blank goes all the way to the butt knob of the split grip. Anyone discussing sensitivity have a "sensitivometer" to objectively measure sensitivity, so that advertising, expectations, price, looks, etc. don't affect the evaluation? Didn't think so.

I have never found a Daiwa that needed oiling before use. If you do oil it, just a drop on the bearings, other pivots/moving parts. Don't take it "apart," just take the side cover off. NO NEED to go into it farther and you would have a good liklihood of screwing it up. Most often needed oiling on casters is the level wind worm gear, just turn it over to expose the worm and a few drops along its length. Check this now and then. When it looks a little dry, oil it.

Easy to check, and gets rid of a possibility, even though rare. If it's a guide, it's most likely the tiptop that is cracked. But keep in mind that FC line is very finicky, and when it gets backlashed, it's likely, very likely, that it will be damaged in getting the backlash cleared. It won't take kindly to the plucking and pulling on loops that it often takes to clear a backlash. AND, it backlashes very easily, IMO.

Great advice! I have NEVER had a "bad spool" of any line, any type, any material. Exc early Vanish, but all of that stuff was bad, not just a "bad spool."

I still can't figure out what the simple question was. What is the simple question?

Hitena's 21 pound test PureLine (Hitena says their pound test ratings are honest), a 14 carrier braid if I remember correctly, is also (stated to be) about .006., I will be glad when Hitena gets back on the market-best braid I've ever used.

I just measured the diameter of Suffix Revolve 10 pound test-advertised diameter = .006 in. Measured = .006 in. Would be interested in knowing the actual pound test if anyone has it.

Daiwa Fuego is a fine reel. 8:1 or lower.

Just measured a 10 pound test Suffix braid, not this one, published diameter was .008. Measured slightly over .010. Feels thicker than the 21 pound Pure Line which I'll measure tonight.

While I always like Suffix products, I'm not sure why it's called ultra thin since its diamter isn't as small as Hitena Pureline which has been available for years. I have used 21 pound test at .006 diameter for bones to get both reasonably high strength and high line capacity on the reel. Hitena has not been available lately, but there are other braids with 8 or more strands with similar thicknesses. The Suffix price for a premium braid is very attractive. I'm sure I will give it a try next purchase.

I'm not sure a MH is the right answer. Depends on the specific power, and MH, M, ML, etc., are very unreliable. Get a rod that has the lure weight specs as close to this 5/16-5/8 as you can, ignoring the MH, M, ML, etc. Many custom builders measure objective CCS numbers for power and action, and know exactly what works best. And with experience and data sharing can zero right in on thise issue.

If you're going to fish BFS you'll be using small diameter line, and all the reels will hold enough. The reel was designed for BFS, not to worry. Just don't start putting 15 pound mono on it.

I expect those who can't accept U40 would disagree. I think it's mostly in the head-burl cork isn't that soft to begin with. I have rods with the grips coated with wrap epoxy, and they feel fine to me, and they look terrific. Others have used matte finish polyurethane, and it really enhances the appearance, too. Those who argue that coatings like this make the grips slippery when wet, IMO, are wrong. Fish slime makes grips slippery. Some coatings have better grip wet than dry. The most important parameter affecting ability to grip a rod is grip/handle shape.

There are a few things I refuse to loan: Fishing tackle, chain saws, my boat, firearms. I will let others use my tackle in my boat with me, but no other way.

For those who complain about U40 changing the feel of cork, Tru Oil will not be a satisfactory finish. It makes the surface harder. It's a gunstock finish. I have it on a couple rods, and don't mind its feel, but I'm not as sensitive to "cork feel" as others seem to be.

The most important spec is the recommended lure weight. It most closely matches the power, and the power needs to be right in order to load properly on the cast. Longer rod lengths usually make longer casts, but the down sides are most likely weight, balance, and accuracy. You need to gain experience that will guide you to buy what best matches your intended use, lures, and preferences. But if you follow one recommdation for a MH power, and intend to cast a 5/16 oz lure with it, I think you will be disappointed. But you will have gained some valuable experience.

Would not be too small. You asked a direct question that could be answered yes or no. I answered no.

I don't know where all this attention to matching reels to rods came from , but it's IMO highly over-rated as an important consideration. Within common sense, within reason, you can put any reel with any rod. If balance is important to you, then check it out. It's also a fact that all reels are not sized the same, meaning not all 100 size casting reels are the same size or weight; not all 2500 spinning reels are the same size or weight. My direct answser to your question would be : No

It is the inner diameter of the repair sleeve that must match or be close to the outer diameter of the broken blank. It becomes an outer sleeve that goes over the broken blank on both sides of the fracture for about 1 1/2 inches. It should work fine in this case, going about right up to the guide. You do have the end of the rod with the tiptop still on it, right? Answer this and I'll check to see if I have an appropriate piece, which I probably do. .068 is the diameter of the blank and not the diameter of the swollen fracture point, right? You may message me if you prefer.

Yup. Highly over-used, highly over-rated. It's mostly about marketing.

A medium heavy rod is too powerful for DT6's. For the full range of cranks you probably need more than one rod. But you need to match the power to the weight of the lures being cast in order to get the loading right for casting. Then you get the action you like, and for cranks, most like medium or medium fast. The longer the rod the less important the action is for keeping the fish "pinned."