Turtle135

I would think a topwater plug like the Heddon Tiny Torpedo might be a good choice. It floats so you won't snag bottom and for young anglers being able to see the lure keeps their attention.

Most of the time I go fishing with two identical baitcasting combos with monofilament line. 7' medium-heavy fast and Trilene XT 14-pound test monofilament. Part of it is because I fish from a kayak. I am not packing 15 rods. I also like to be able to lay my rods down on the front deck so that I can slide underneath overhanging branches (happens very frequently on the waters I fish). What I lose in versatility I believe I gain in casting accuracy, making better presentations, hooking bass and landing bass. This approach is not for everybody but I know Rick Clunn used to employ a similar strategy on the water. See the short article below. ------------------------------------------------ If a tournament circuit told you that you could only fish one type of rod and one type of reel at its events, you'd think they were nuts. Well, what about Rick Clunn? The man with arguably the greatest record ever in the sport of bass fishing uses just one rod and just one reel for 98 percent of his fishing: a Bass Pro Shops Rick Clunn 704 series heavy-action 7-foot rod, and a 6.3:1 Rick Clunn XPS signature reel. Why? Read on. "If you look in my rod box you won't see a different rod and reel than those unless I'm fishing a spinning rod," Clunn says. "The reason is that it's a fallacy that you have to have different rods and reels to be a bass fisherman." Best for Hooking and Landing "The No. 1 rod for hooking and landing fish is a heavy-action, 7- foot, long-handled rod," he says. "You won't lose fish on that rod. "If you want to mess around with lighter actions or medium-heavies, then fine. But accept that you will lose fish. That's not acceptable for me. "I'm not changing because someone says you need to have a soft-tip rod to cast a (Norman) Tiny N. You don't -- it's a fallacy, especially when you sacrifice landing fish." Rod History Clunn fished glass (fiberglass) rods early in his career and favored them. But "it got harder and harder to get companies to provide with me with quality glass rods," he says. When Bass Pro Shops approached him about a sponsorship, he asked the company to make him a composite rod with the type of action he liked. "I kept testing the rods, and the one rod I liked is the heavy-action rod. "Anytime you go away from a heavy rod you will lose fish," he reiterates. "Most people want light-tip rods because they think it's better for casting and it wiggles better in the store. Heavier rods are like a cue stick in the store. "But on the water, it will hook and land more fish any other rod." High-Speed Reels The matter of reel choice is simple: You can slow fast-retrieve-ratio (6.3:1) reels down, but "you can't speed up a slower reel without wearing yourself out," Clunn notes. He also says that durability and castability are key factors in using one reel. "They have to be able to cast those big baits -- making 3-4 casts a minute with a big 3/4-ounce spinnerbait -- without breaking down." Rhythm Clunn's casting is "a matter of rhythm," he says. And "anytime you change to another rod with another reel you have to adjust. You'll sacrifice your accuracy because of that. "The only thing I have to adjust to is the weight of the lure. That's how I get my accuracy: rhythm. "It's like shooting a basketball. Once you're in that rhythm it's fine, but once you get out of it you're not. And changing your rod every 30 minutes or so is one of the major ways to get out of that rhythm." History Behind It "The best year I ever had in fishing was the first year I ever did this," Clunn says, referring to his great 2000 season. "I know it works. "What winning translates into is execution, not losing fish. And I probably lost less fish that year than any other year in my career. And this year has been the same way. "That's the bottom line," he says. "It's not the hype you give something. It's whether it works." Not for Everyone? Despite Clunn's conviction that the one rod, one reel method works for him, he says that it might not be right for everyone. "If you're not losing any fish and you're happy with what you're doing, don't change," he says. Try his method "only if you're losing more fish than you think you should be, or if you're not happy with what you're doing. "If that's not a problem, don't change." ------------------------------------------------------------

You Chatterbait aficionados, this is just me, please do not take offense, The Chatterbait is a novelty presentation and my interest in it has passed. I have been throwing a spinnerbait all my fishing days and likely will till the end of my days. As WRB pointed out, the spinnerbait is one of the most versatile presentations ever created.

I agree that the snakeheads are not an ecological disaster. They are a niche species on the Tidal Potomac. I strongly suspect that the blue catfish are a greater ecological threat to the fishery. However, a big snakehead north of 10 pounds is going to bully a largemouth out of a prime feeding location if it so chooses. I wish they were not here as they are in no way shape or form "good" for the largemouth fishery. IMHO the major problem that largemouth bass experience on the Tidal Potomac is the lack of suitable spawning areas.

I have the KC Welder tool. Take a look at this youtube video. I have repaired several kayaks with cracks in the nose and in the keel using the wire mesh. In my opinion, if you take your time and do it right the repaired area is stronger than the rest of the kayak. I have welding iron if you want to borrow it for the repair. If you want to go that route PM me and I will drop it in the mail to you. p.s. - when you do a repair you do want to heat up the polyethylene on the kayak so that the existing poly mixes and blends with the repair poly.

I use the plastic fish grip on a 4' tether of paracord. I do not use it to land a bass. I just clip the bass and let her swim while I get my board and camera ready. Get on the board quick, snap the photo and then back into the drink.

I think you are on the right track particularly if you are targeting larger bass. Minimize and master a limited number of big fish presentations.

Actual breaking strength is a whole nuther story. I know Trilene XT way overtests what it is rated as. The thinner the line the more of a factor even the slightest abrasion becomes. My Bass Pro still carries Sensation (and it looks like they offer it online). http://www.basspro.com/Berkley-Trilene-Sensation-Line/product/1307090631035/

Are you looking for better casting distance with light lures or just more lure action with lighter line? I find the best way to evaluate monofilament line is to ignore the pound test and take a look at the diameter of the line. A lot of the diameter information can be found in the description on Tackle Warehouse. .015" - Big Game 12 pound test .015" - Trilene XT 12 pound test .013" - Trilene XL 12 pound test .012" - Trilene Sensation 12 pound test I do find I get longer casts with light lures using Sensation on a baitcaster. I suspect I also get a more natural drop with a light jig on that thinner line.

Zona Live will hold you over until the new season starts

Rod: 7'1" Mojo Bass medium-heavy fast Reel: Lew's SuperDuty Speed Spool Baitcast Reel Line: Trilene XT Monofilament, 14 or 17 pound test in clear Knot: Uni Bait: 3/8th ounce Grid Iron Arky Jighead from Seibert Outdoors, Round Rubber Skirt, Baby Paca Craw as the trailer

I wear one all the time. I will even wear one in the dead of winter to keep a biting cold wind off my face. There are a lot of different brands and not all are equal in terms of comfort and breath ability. I have only tried 3 different brands but the one I like is made by "Hoorag". https://www.hoorag.com/

Yes, I catch them while bass fishing. My personal experience is that you find them shallower than the bass once the water warms up. Black&blue swim jigs with some thump in the trailer work best for me.

This is correct. A side imaging transducer needs to ping out to each side, so it needs a clear shot. My Tarpon 130x has a second transducer scupper where a side imaging puck could be installed (but even installed there the transducer needs to be able to be extended below the kayak to get that unobstructed side view).

No doubt side imaging is a great asset to have. However the OP is fishing from a kayak on a smaller body of water and IMHO having that oversize side imaging transducer hanging below your kayak (where it has to be to function) is a PITA. Also, side imaging does come at a price. As I mentioned, the Dragonfly is probably a throw in to sweeten the deal on the kayak package. He is not investing a lot into that fish finder. I have buddies who bass fish from kayaks and they like having SI so much they are willing to put up with a cumbersome transducer arrangement. I have a greater number of kayak fishing buddies who opted to not go with SI. Me, I am more of a minimalist out on the water.

I think the down scan will work just fine. I have a Humminbird and have found that I keep mine in the down imaging setting virtually all the time. I also am looking at depth, water temperature and I am looking specifically for depth changes, weed lines, brush and logs on the bottom. I am more looking for conditions that ought to hold bass rather than marking fish. In shallow water you usually do not mark a lot of fish because as the previous poster pointed out the cone of coverage in shallow water is not very large. Assuming they are throwing this fish finder in the package without a whole lot of markup I would go with it. Fish finders can always be upgraded down the line as technology gets better and prices go lower.

Yes, with those water temperatures your bass are likely in post spawn (they have already laid the eggs and the eggs have hatched). The bass will guard the hatched fry for a couple of days. The bite in post spawn can be hit or miss. The bass can be non aggressive while they regain the strength that they exerted during the spawning process. On my waters I look for breaks (depth changes on the bottom contour) and cover near the spawning areas. The majority of the bass have not moved to off shore summer haunts just yet.

I have become a jig addict and when I just can't talk the bass into eating a manly sized jig this presentation keeps me happy and the bites coming.

A 4" Yamamoto Double Tail Hula Grub on a 1/4 ounce jig head. The bass were acting funky with the cold front that came through this weekend. This finagled me a few bites.

This is a foolproof method for controlling that binge buying. Go to this website and just start throwing everything and anything you have ever wanted into your cart. http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/ No, wait a minute, that seems to have the opposite effect to what was intended.

Greg Hackney (Bass Master Elite Series Pro) will try to use a punching jig whenever he can as he feels he will get more of those bass into the boat after he hooks them. However a texas rigged punching bait will go in and out of that heavy cover cleaner. I too lean towards using a jig whenever I can get it in and out of that cover with out collecting weeds.

Have you ever seen anyone trying to paddle a Pro Angler? A buddy of mine brought his to Mattawoman Creek (Tidal Potomac River tributary). It was a nightmare at low tide!

What kind of waters do you fish most of the time? The hands free pedal option is great to have in certain situations. I fish a lot of shallow weedy waters (Tidal Potomac) and shallow ledge rock (Upper Potomac and Susquehanna) where a paddle is the only way to go.

Rileys Lock does have some good fishing but IMHO the best fishing there (down river in Seneca Breaks) is not mirage drive friendly. Edwards Ferry also has a boat ramp with decent smallmouth bass fishing up and down river from the launch. Edward Ferry: http://webapps02.dnr.state.md.us/MDPublicWaterAccess/ShowWaterAccessToPublic.aspx?PKintKeyID=204 Maryland Boat Ramps: http://dnr.maryland.gov/boating/pages/water-access/boatramps.aspx Good luck!

I am a Trilene XT fan as well. Probably has something to do with having fished with monofilament for decades before fluorocarbon arrived on the scene. I truly detest breaking off fish (still angry about a smallmouth that broke my 6 pound test back in 2002) and there are any number of ways to damage flouro. It is just not for me and would not offer any significant advantage for 95% of the fishing I prefer to do.