Angry John

I'm wondering if you are really flipping or just jig fishing. I havent seen anyone flip in a long time. I ask because it may make a difference in the length of rod you want.

The 1.5 in bluegill is magic and 1.0 is devastation on trout for me but not one fish on a 2.5

When on a bike traffic rules apply. The pro bike nerds have spent a lot of time working for these rights. Now let's examine the risk. A bicycle going down hill can easily reach 30 mph or more with the potential to kill the rider and very seriously injure a pedestrian. If you can paddle a yak fast enough to seriously injure someone I would be very surprised.

For small square bills 1.0 and 1.5s jerk baits and 1/4 chatter baits from a canoe or yak my 66mf avid is the workhorse rod. A smaller reel like the alphas keeps the weight down and maximizes the ability to cast lighter lures. If your a shimano guy a core 50 may also be a good choice. Run 8-10 lb line and enjoy. I do not prefer expensive flourocarbon on this setup as I like the jerk baits to suspend not get pulled down by the line.

I agree more is not better. A few thin strands can add some secondary action. The rapala jerk baits use them. It's the first thing I ever tried to tie and it is a great way to learn.

You you animal. big baits are not for fast action for sure.

Anyone have any action on a glide yet. Started today because why not. Had to let my ryoga stretch her legs. Gave a 168 a spin around the pond, no takers yet.

I do this with an oring from a wacky rig.

Find a kid that is fishing in your area and give him a gift bag. If your going fresh start make a big impact on a junior angler. May also find a collage or HS team and donate. Might be good for a tax write off.

Size matters. On an alphas I have run 20 suffix 832 and it was a good fit. If your using a normal full size reel 30 is good and 40 is better.

If you start looking at ponds in the New London area I have put reviews of almost every Lake Pond and Stream in the area

You may get some responses on ctfishfinder. I used to go to that site a lot and the ct members were the most active of all the states.

Braid is a tool and I only like the tool in a few places. I have one spinning setup that I run 15. I always run a leader on that rod normally at least 6' or longer. My heavy rod for frigging and punching is the other. 50 or 65 works great.

What is the purpose of the exercise. Do we have a minimalist with a decent budget, or a young kid who only has money for one rod. Is transportation the issue or assembled length the cut off? What is my primary type of fishing? If I choose 7' does that mean I'm fishing an ugly stick. I fish 6'6" to 8 foot and no desire to fish the new super long rods. If I could only have one rod it would be my st croix 70mhf sc5. It's the rod always with me.

A 12v trawling motor is for a kayak or 10' jon boat. When i was tournament fishing all day, we watched people kill 12v cells after only a few hours. 24V is way more powerful, has much longer run time and the motorcontrolers are better not wasting power. I would say its more important than a big motor because its in use most of the time unless you fish big waters. In smaller lakes in CT we never even started the big motor, and in some lakes gas motors are not allowed. I dont know what your situation is, but if it was me i would pick the best TM you can afford. Do you want spot lock?? Fishing in the wind and want to land a fish, spot lock is sooooo nice. Drilling more holes in the boat when you upgrade sucks if the motors are a lot different in the mounting configuration. If you can work it, have them leave off the Junk sonar that is part of the package. I would finance a top of the line TM but not a sonar unit. Good Sonars can be had for a couple hundred, not so with a good TM.

I also lost all three very quickly. The hound dog works just fine. There all a pain but worth the effort if you want your lure back. I only use mine on crankbaits, and hard body baits like swaivers.

My 610mxf and alphas ito with 10lb yhb is on point as well. I run keitech 3" easy shiners up to hud shads on this rig.

I have a custom built on that 74hf blank and love it. Frogs jigs and -swaiver 168s are all good on that blank.

For the price the keitech is easily the cheapest. I have and use both the hud shad and grass minnows. They do not last very long and the skin on the belly is very thin. They do repair well with mendit. And they get bit in overfished waters when nothing else will. Dont overlook the hollow body baits either.

Air fuel ratio, engine temperature, oil fuel ratio, and quality of oil added all play a part in carbon buildup. Using the correct plug in the right heat range can also be a factor.

Little jb bore paste and your camera will get you right back in the game.

I have more than a few reels and almost all of them are 6.3. I tried a 7.9 and hated it but I do have a 7:1 zillion for punching and frogs. A low 7 is plenty fast and works well for me. Dont get caught up in marketing, or what the pros use. They are out their to make money, and for them a few seconds matter.

Avid 66mf, I like a shorter rod for shallow jerk baits. 7' for deep jerks.

My conversation with him was 6xd and lighter use the 764, anything heavier use the 805 CB.

I would say the bait makes a huge difference. Are you running a huddleston on the jig hook only and giving it all you have winching them in or are you running a treble bait and fishing somewhat aggressive. Throwing hard baits i would think you would be fine ( I run 20 YHB on a dobyns 806) I have run as low as 12 YHB on my white python tossing 168 waivers and other hard baits. I believe your choice is a decent one that should not give you any major pains.