HoosierHawgs

Reel Saver

12# is what I use. No need for backing, but if it saves you line go right ahead, but I never do. Any knot. I use the trilene knot.

As do I. BBB are my favorite plastics. Quality to price is good. Yes sir they did. I started buying the old bandits when people started marking them down

Lew's have always meant quality at a price I can't ignore. My Lew's cast farther, with less backlashes than any other reel I've owned. And I've owned Shimano's, Quantum's, Browning's, Daiwa's, Bass Pro's, and Abu's. After feeling the lowest model Lew's, I switched them all to Lew's.

Depends on what you need it for. Are you looking for all around, or for a specific purpose?

Does anybody know what the new line is going to be? Was there anything at ICAST? Was their that much difference between LPT and F2?

Tournament MB, the 6.7 ounce model, is the one in getting for throwing jigs/plastics. There all good reel, but that is a reel that can throw weights all over the spectrum.

If you look at guys who use flipping a lot they also use those parabolic bend rods similar to the ones used for chatterbaits. There are plenty of specialized rods with this action.

12# mono. It floats and has give for treble hooks. 12# is a good size because it handles well, and depending on where you fish, your not risking many break offs. I've never broken of a fish and I fish 12# mono on my topwater/jerkbait, crankbait, and spinnerbait setups.

If you are going to be pike fishing, you probably want a larger capacity reel, for bigger line and baits on a larger rod. The reels I would recommend would be The AbuGarcia Toro NaCl, Lew's SuperDuty, or a Lew's BB-2 Wide Spool.

Its got all the standards of the price range. Certainly a nice reel.

6'6" for longer cast. This is very important when it comes to smallmouth in clear water IMO. I go to a shorter 6'0" when I'm hiking into the creek I wade because I don't need to make such long cast, and I don't want to bust the tip.

I use my flipping setup (7'6" Heavy Baitcaster W/ a 7.1:1 Reel and 50# braid) because I usually fish them in pretty thick cover. Braid will help the chatterbaits action IMO.

Accuracy= increased. This is due to less line slap. Distance= decreased due to the increase in line creating friction with the guides. Just my 2 cents

Also, I use 12# mono on the first, 50# braid on the second, 12# fluoro on the 3rd and 20# braid w/ an 8# fluoro leader on the spinning

I fish from a kayak, and I usually take about 6 combos w/me. This is a bit much, bit it covers everything. But if I had to take three, it Would be a 6'6" medium Casting paired w/a 6.4:1 Reel for all around (spinnerbaits, topwater, jerkbaits, ect) a 7'6" Heavy castong w/a 7.1:1 reel for fliping, pitching, swimbauts, and frogs and either 6'6 or 7' Medium Heavy casting w/a 7.1:1 reel or a 6'6" medium spinning w/a 5.4:1 reel for plastics. Obviously you would tailor this to your style of fishing

With a lipped crank, you will catch SOME fish without hitting anything, but your crank will be MOST effective when it is hitting something. Whether its digging into the bottom, ripping out of weeds, bouncing of rocks and stumps, or crawling through deadfall. What this does is cause the action of the lure to change, or be "erratic", which is what causes a fish that is interested/following to strike your lure.Don't be afraid to get snagged or rip weeds w/your baits. It's annoying, but if you don't fish these area, you are missing out on a lot of fish, and a lot of dun!

Lew's Tournament or Tournament MB. All my other reels are good.

In terms of the amount you will fetch for them, I would keep them. I don't know about the new ones, but I've seen one sitting on a combo w/a Falcon rod used for like $100, maybe less.. And it has been sitting there for a few weeks.. Just my 2 cents.

There is just a point in terms of price where it is not going to fish any better. It might last longer, or be lighter, but the fact is if you take a $50 rod, and pair it with a $100 reel, and take care of it, its going to fish just as well, and last a long time. There is a point where price and quality meet, and you just have to find that place.

I would get any where from 1/16 all the way to 12 or 3/8, but no heavier. This all depends on the depth you are fishing, what tackle you are using, what the wind speed is, and the mood of the bass. But I always throw the lightest weight that I can get away with. You want just enough weight to be able to cast, feel, and keep contact with the bottom. The slower the fall, generally the more strikes you will get. Especially the initial drop.

Or rubbing alcohol and a shop rag worls just as well. I clean the handle at the end of every season

I always use cheaper rods. The most expensive rod I own is $50. I also really enjoy Berkley Rods. I fish all Lew's reels, but refuse to buy one that is more than $180. Most of them are $100 or less. I usually buy them used at half price for the more expensive ones. Never had the kinda money to throw at 6 Shimanos. Its just not worth it.

Same here. To me EVA just feels cheap. I think a good quality cork balances just as well. Plus, EVA holds onto fish slime and dirt a lot worse. I don't mind quality EVA reel grips though.

Honestly, I'd by a Lew's. The lowest model can be had for $80... I picked up two lightly used for $40 each. But they're are models from that lowest price, all the way too $200+. But the best $/feature is probably the LFS for $100. I would say that's comparable. Or the Tournament MB, which ways in at 6.7 ounces, and has extreme castability.