Ozark_Basser

The only difference is the square bill is better for deflecting off of shallow cover without getting hung as much.

My boat is out of commission for a bit, so I am starting a thread/fishing log for the remainder of the winter in search of a 4 lb smallmouth caught out of one of the creeks around NW Arkansas. I have only achieved this once and it definitely wasn't in winter so this should be pretty interesting. Feel free to chime in with a report on catching a big creek smallie or any size creek smallie form that matter. I will be fishing tomorrow and will give a detailed log tomorrow evening of how my day went.

Just make sure they are deflecting off cover or structure and you will get bit.

Same as any other time of the year, but you gotta put it in front of their face. Also, it's a good idea to target the warmer areas of the lake i.e. the NW part of the lake, areas with lots of cover that holds heat like big rocks and wood, and areas with dead grass. Areas with acess to deeper water are also what you want to look for. Flats adjacent to deep water, steep tapering points, banks, and bluffs, along with docks located above deeper water all have proven to be productive for me. I'd just start with the NW corner of the lake then find areas on a map that coincide with what I previously mentioned. Good luck.

Make sure you get some good split rings or you'll just bend them trying to assemble it. I use owner hyperwires size 2 but you can find some good ones for cheaper.

I use the do it arky style mold and one split ring. It works great. The arky head gets it to hunt depending on the trailer.

Yep I was pretty much dead on with this one. Where is my prize? Haha just kidding. Do you have any more of these, Paul? This is probably the best learning tool I can think of other than on the water experience, and still this has some advantages over that as far as learning how bass relate to an entire lake over an extended period of time.

The power and lengths on those rods are perfect for what you are intending to use them for especially if the baits you will be throwing aren't over 3\4 oz. The action is up to you. I like a modfast action with treble hooks because it allows more give so the fish can't shake the treble hooks. Also it allows the fish to really get a hold of the bait before I set the hook. A lot of guys like moderate action as well for the same reasons.

How do you know what size winding checks to buy? Does it go by the diameter of the small or larger end? Is there a small or larger end? I'm thinking about doing a two piece reel seat and a split grip with no foregrip. That's five winding checks. Does it just go by the diameter of the rod at site of the winding check? Seems like it would be difficult to pinpoint the exact size? If I wanted to do a kevlar wrap like on the Dobyn's Extreme or the Orochi, how would I go about that? It seems like it would be difficult to epoxy over it. Where is the best place to buy the material? Is a small butane torch efficient for getting rid of air bubbles in epoxy?

That color to me is called Missouri Craw (black, chartreuse, and amber). Muddy water is where I would throw it.

I would just stick with your guns unless he starts tearing them up on the a rig, then I would just switch to the a rig.

They have some poor hooks on the original. The other version has some better hooks I think.

I would recommend tfo's signature series. The tip is softer than most fast action rods if you are into that and its $100.

Is there anyone out there who makes custom rods from your choice of North Fork Composite blanks?

Bluebasser makes some nice stuff. Also siebert outdoors fogy is an excellent choice for much cheaper than other brands.

Also, I just recognized that bridge. Another good spot.

The defined point you are talking about is probably worth hitting on every trip. When the ice melts, I'd hit up that steeper side of lake, especially those docks along it.

I'm not familiar with lakes that contain a marl bottom, but i have read they will use it to spawn. I'd start by focusing on the transitions found around the two flats on the west side of the lake. If they use those marl flats to spawn, in prespawn they will stage on the edges or transitions relating to these marl flats. I'd focus on spots that would link good wintering spots to these flats. The point directly above where the name of the lake is located looks like it would be good as well as any points located within the flats. Areas that transition from sand to marl within those flats should hold fish as well. Docks are probably the main thing I would focus on though, especially the ones located around anything I have previously mentioned.

They also make a cover to go over the weedguard so you can heat and coat the jig with the weedguard in. From what I've seen from the videos, it will still kind of flare out the weedguard when you heat it though.

Living rubber jigs also have a slower fall as well as thicker silicone skirted jigs.

I'd start with that northwest corner and the whole west side of the lake as it will warm up faster with that warming trend you are about to have. Also if you could can see on the bank a sharp transition from the bowling ball sized rocks to gravel on the west side, I'd fish that pretty hard too unless it's one of those lakes that has a smooth bank all the way around which it kind of looks like from the map. I'd also fish any visible cover up shallow which is where a lot of fish are probably going to be along with hitting up the brush piles and points.

I've found that if I heat the jighead for too long on the hookeye, it will get filled with paint. Also the fluid bed helps with using a quick dip. About two out of ten hook eyes will still get filled though. Is there another way or technique I could use to ensure it never happens.

With big football jigs I can see where an eight foot rod would be beneficial. With swimjigs it would be a lot better to throw a seven footer for better accuracy. All of dobyns rods feel pretty stiff to me, but that is just me.

If you are going to fish a point, you should generally fish the whole thing. The idea you are applying here deals with the fact that the north side of lakes can be protected from cold north winds. Fishing the north sides of points is ambiguous. If the point runs south to north, then the north side is the whole point itself. If it runs north to south, then the north side is not even in the water. It's a good idea to focus on good looking spots that are protected from north winds during the winter though from my experience.

This is true. By the time I got everything, I think I spent around 700 dollars. It adds up.