Further North

For the boat: When I back the boat into the garage at the end of each trip i make sure i am prepped to go before I head into the house: Plug in battery charger Re-rig any rods that I broke line off. Re-stock any plastics I used a lot of (I keep an "inventory" of the stuff I use often). Re-stock water bottles. Write down anything else I need to pick up when I run into town the next day. Put what I bought in boat when I get home. For wading: If I'm wading, I'm fly fishing...so it's a simpler version of the above - my bass, pike and trout sling packs are ready to go before I leave the garge when I get home Hang waders to dry. Put boots on drying rack. Re-rig rod if a break off was the last thing before I left Re-stock anything I used a bunch of (doesn't happen very often) Make a list of anything else I need to tie, buy or grab from the house. Put what I tied, bought or grabbed from the house in the bag next day. If I want to take the boat, I back up to the garage, slide the hitch in, drop the trailer on and I'm out the door in 5 minutes. If I'm wading, grab the right bag, waders, boots and rod (they are set up and pre-rigged in a rack on the side of the garage) and I'm gone even faster. I've got fishable water all over the place close to the house - dozens of lakes, two major rivers and miles of trout streams - all within a half hour or less of the house...everything from brookies to muskies.

I love bass...but I'd rather catch pike...there's not much that's as fun as chasing big pike with a fly rod for me. Color and flash, as noted above, has a lot to do with it, as does speed. If you're losing lures to pike, try Tyger Wire (or similar) tieable leaders and rig as normal for bass - I often fish Texas rigs this way for both bass and pike (and muskies). Just use a fairly long piece of leader and a slim knot that'll run through your guides well (I use an Alberto, or more recently, the FG knot.). The Tyger Wire is pretty flexible and I've not notices any loss of action on the lures. An alternative for very clear water would be heavy test fluorocarbon lines - at least 30# - if you are in very clear water.

It's not just sad...it's dumb...in so many ways...

Actually...It'd be a lotta go...

Not sure where you are, but I'd call the Skeeter dealer to verify that before I moved on. If I were going to buy 'glass, I'd go Skeeter...but a lot of that has to do ith how good our dealer is, and value for $$$.

I hear you. I'd be scared silly in one about 1/3 of the time.

I started out on that path (1800 Pro-V)...but after a few years realized that what I really wanted was more deck space to fish from and even more importantly, below deck storage for all my "stuff" and tackle. The only thing that is on deck with me these days is rigged fishing rods...and occasionally the dawg.

That's the deal, right there. Boats as big as you guys use on Erie would drive me nuts around here...plus the cost of hauling them around...which would include a much more expensive tow vehicle.

It is - I've always liked that boat. My dad had one of the originals back in the 80s.

Yeah, it can. I fish inland lakes, nowhere near the size of Erie...I don't think I'd be comfortable out there in a boat the size of mine. The biggest lake I run on is Lake of the Woods. Your boat is ~300 heavier dry than mine, your motor about another 90 lbs...that'll make a big difference. 40 gallons of gas, and the same 4 batteries...and a charger. Interesting that mine is rated for 150 and yours is rated for 140...what kind of boat?

I've never had that happen...that'd be no fun at all. What is your boat rated for, and what does it weigh? My CMV is fairly light compared to a lot of newer boats...It's about 1100 lbs empty. Dumb question: Could that be a prop problem?

Probably a good bet...funny thing it...most fishermen are on their trolling motor a lot more than their main motor. IMO, it'd be better to save $5k on the big motor (if the boat runs well without maxing it out) and put that money into the trolling motor and electronics.

You're probably right...but I see people put electric trolling motors that seriously under power their boats all the time. ...I wonder why?

My current boat is rated for 150...I run 140...it's fine....no, it's better than fine, it's great. It runs mid 40s, and sips gas. I don't care about re-sale, I'll run it until it dies, or something else happens to it. Generally, I agree with the rule of thumb to max out HP...but it's boat dependent. We don't know how it'll run with a 150 until we see some tests, or drive one. Bigger motors have two serious flaws: THey cost a lot more up front...and they eat more gas. If that boat runs well with a 150, I'd buy it. I don't need to go 60...

$35,710...I'd find a way to do that if something happened to my CMV. Not knowing what it weighs yet, I'm on the bubble about needing 200 HP.

No way i'd run a 24 volt TM on that boat...but lotsa folks think I'm nuts for running a 36 volt on a CMV 1850...but I've never been unhappy about my choice...

Craigslist...January...NW WI...$600+ Mad River virtually unused for three bills. ...got a lotta weird looks from other drivers driving home with a canoe on the roof @ -17°...

I have a Trailstar...you can run a lock through the hole for the pin on the latch for the ball

I'm in the same boat (yeah, that was intended)... I run a Johnson labeled Suzuki DF140...and while I'd love to have a Yamaha 150 back there and hit mid 50s,,,cuz...ya know...who wouldn't...mid-40s is plenty for the lakes I fish...and when the needle on my gas gauge doesn't move after a full day on the water...I'm pretty darned happy with what I've got. She'll cruise at 32-33 MPH and 4500 RPM and not use much gas at all.

I have heard $35K with a Merc 150. Purely rumor at this point, and I'm sure that's without decent electronics.

I agree - Most folks run a 70 - 80 lb thrust TM on a boat my size (Crestliner 1850)...I run a 36 volt, 101 (current 36 volt from MK at 112)...and I have never, ever...not once...been sorry I have that much power. I can always turn it down...can't turn it up after I'm at max thrust against current or wind.

The new Ulterra resolves both those issues. I don't have one yet...maybe next year.

Yup. I've run a Terrova since they came out, currently have a 101 36 volt Terrova with iPilot and Link. the electric steer took some getting used to...but once you do, it's a "set it and forget it" way of fishing. I either set it to follow a contour, set it to hold "X" distance off shore or aim it at something, set the speed and spend my time fishing instead of messing with the motor. Boat control becomes something you used to do...

$120 if the tank is empty. It's never empty. Did about 165 miles in a week in Canada for $55.00 in June.

Yup. That's what should be covered.