Further North

Those are great boats, enjoy!

Interesting...Cabela's only shows the Predator XL with the motor on-line...everyone else lists the XL at about $1800. I think you did better than 1/2 off.

Right..like I said, we're agreeing. I'm with you 100% on a canoe.

Yep, on a canoe, I can see it...but by running the motor in reverse, you're essentially advocating the same thing: Pulling is way easier than pushing. Ever try to push a rope? On my boat with a bow mounted trolling motor pulling, I fish with the wind, against the wind and across the wind...and every angle in between with a bow mount on a boat... Much, much more effective and efficient to pull than to push.

That's it, right there.

I have one rod with a hook keeper down past the reel seat on the butt section. I can't decide if I like it there or not. I have a couple of fly reels with built in hook keepers...wonder why gear makers haven't picked up on that?

It's not what the prop is made out of, it's the pitch of the props that's causing you problems. The only place I run aluminum is in Canada where a rock strike in unfamiliar water is a possibility.

This is the best answer - right here. I had a 14' aluminum boat for a while...tried to make it work like you are doing...complete PITA. ...then someone pointed out I could spin the head on my Minn Kota 180° and hang it on the bow...Instant, huge difference. Other than possibly on a canoe or a kayak, I can't think of a single reason why I'd ever own a transom mounted trolling motor again.

Define "driving distance". I can drive there...but it'd be two days, minimum, both ways. Still mulling it over.

Philly would make yard casting hard...I couldn't live there. ...not sure what size flies you throw for stripers and bonefish I've only fished for bonefish once - unsuccessfully - and it worked OK...but those results speak for themselves... I've reached a point where I'd rather throw a smaller fly for smaller toothy fish on an 8 wt. than a bigger fly on a 10 wt. for bigger fish...it's just too much of a PITA for me. I like the way an 8 wt. feels and casts soooooo much more than a 10 I can't explain it... It's kinda like when I'm throwing gear...I've got an 9 ft. musky rod that I can toss a Cadillac on...but I don't like fishing that way...does that make sense?

flyfisher...great advice...but demo days don't exist out here in the boonies.

So...I'm not a Kayak guy either...If I float him an offer at $1000...can I get my money out of it in a month if I don't like it?

Base model - with rudder - nothing added, looks like its been in the water maybe two or three times. Urban camo color. Seller bought more Kayak than he needed...and he says he didn't care for the whole kayak experience.

Look for breaks, edges, holes...start out running your bait just over the tops of the weeds, occasionally hitting them...

Ah...I see where the difference...It would take me at least 5 of those minutes to dig out the jack and floorstands because I don't use them often...I'm not even sure I still have the jackstands...then, reasonably, at least 5 minutes per wheel (2 plus spare) another five to get 'em loaded in the truck...so we're at 25 minutes... Same on the back end only in reverse. I don't have to mess with it on my days off, either, I just take an hour during the day, and I know a lot of folks can't do that. Another difference - I make an appointment and call ahead to make sure they're on schedule. None of the local shops has any real problem with me watching from inside the shop...if they did there's not much they can say about me standing just outside the door.

They are - I've found 8 wt. rods are better for me with the bigger flies. I think you'll like the heavier line weights. As for getting better...like everything else it's all about practice. I spend about 20 - 30 minutes lawn casting most days. I'm building muscle memory. I work my way around the house so I have to deal with the wind from every direction.

The same things that cause the problem on car and truck tires: misalignment, incorrect pressure...

Looks like a great boat. ...I gotta ask...why is the boat in the garage backwards?

I'm a simple guy...were I worried about someone messing with the boat...I'd just stand there and watch while they did the work... I think about all the screwing around it'd take to take off the wheels, block the axle so the trailer's off the floor...then drive the wheels into town, wait until they get done, drive home, remount...we're looking at at least an hour, hour and a half. If I did 'em one side at a time, it'd be even more time...I dunno about you guys...but I'd rather go fishing than devote a half day to a tire change.

I need to see the Ultrex in action...one of the things I use all the time on the Ulterra is the power trim when I'm running shallow.

Yup. That's why I bought the Ulterra. Didn't know about the Ultrex. If I was unhappy with the Ulterra, I'd think about a swap...but I'm delighted with it.

Yeah, it is. I've had a transom mounted 360° for 3 years now...I don't use it as often as I thought I would, but that's because I fish lakes I know a lot. In new water it's the cat's PJs. I just bought an Ulterra, so I'm a few years from an Ultrex.

There are a lot of boat tests published in the Internet that'll get you in the ball park. Another reference point: 2005 Crestliner CMV 1850, Suzuki DF 140. 44 MPH with just me an a full load of gear. It's got a 96" beam as well, IIRC. It ran 48-49 MPH without all my "stuff".

Good choice.

I thought I wanted rod tubes until I had a boat with a big rod locker without them. Much better without.