Further North

I don't care for the pedal on the PowerDrive Minn Kota units...hard to use for me. Liked the one on my Terrova just fine and the Ulterra is an improvement on that. Make sure you at a least look at the Motor Guide...quality and performance are about the same with both brands (very good) but you might find you like one better than the other. Buy that one....

River for me this weekend...one that's too small to put a boat bigger than a canoe on...

I'm too far away to help with actual fishing...but gear wise: Rods: Look at Temple Forks Outfitters (TFO). Most will be $300 or less for what you want to to do. Personally I like the Axiom and Mangrove series rods the most...but fly rods are much more personal preference than gear rods. Your casting style will dictate what action you like. Reels: I am a big fan of Lamson. Light, great drag, if you need it, and not bank busters on price. Oddly enough...Orvis has some nicely priced reels as well... Line: Don't skimp here. Spend the money to get good lines...it might be $75 - $100...but they are worth it. Get lines that are designed to do what you are doing. For example: The Rio Smallmouth line excels at tossing bulky bass flies (think top water) into a wind...and getting the flies out there where you need them. Scientific Angler, RIo, Airflo...all are excellent...but don't try to toss a bass fly with a trout line...you'll only get frustrated... Leaders: For bass...don't get all wrapped up in tapered "bass" leaders. Most of my bass/pike/musky rigs are set up with 4' - 6" of level line - usually fluorocarbon for it's stiffness. If I expect toothy fish in the water, there'll be a foot or so of tieable leader on the end to I don't get bitten off 10 times a day. Not sure if that's an issue near KC, but it's a real factor here in NW WI. Use enough rod...unlike gear fishing, you really have to focus on what flies you'll be throwing to choose your rod and line...not so much on the fish you think you're going to catch. I fish for bass with 6, 7 and 8 wt. rods, depending on what I'm throwing. The bigger/more air resistant the fly, the bigger the rod...all will land any bass. THe advice on lessons is spot on: if you can get them, take them. There's nowhere within a reasonable distance for me...so I learned on my own and got corrections from other folks along the way...and I practice a lot...it is not unusual for me to grab a rod every night during decent weather and cast my way around the house for 15 minutes. Good luck - and HAVE FUN!

I love braid to a fluoro leader...it's my most often used combo in water with a lot of abrasive structure. I buy and use fluoro leader material rather than use regular fluorocarbon line...it seems tougher to me...which is what I'm after. We have a lot of pretty clear water...but that's not really my reason for using it. My 2nd favorite leader material (and it's not in 2nd place by much) is a good hybrid line - I've been using Lake Forks FH.

That made me laugh. Thanks.

I have some reels from all of the major makers...and they all perform and last about the same if taken reasonable care of. I've got one STX, an MGX, 3 or 4 Rockets and an LTX. All do what they are supposed to do with no complaints here.

I've been using Lake Fork Fluorohybrid FH the last couple of years (mostly as leader material) and am quite happy with it.

Enjoy - sounds like a great rig.

Agree with all of the above, particularly these two Get it checked out. A 23 year old motor that's perfect is going to be rare. I'm on my 2nd Suzuki 4 stroke (Both DF140s) - both have been great, quiet, fuel efficient. The concern about finding someone to work on them is valid as there are far fewer dealers than other makes...but nothing has broken on mine so I can't really speak to that part of it.

Craigslist...in the spring or early summer. ...and price it to sell. You want it priced so that whoever buys it feels like they got a deal and you get enough out of it to feel good. E-Bay is an alternative, but make sure you are crystal clear that any sale does not include shipping and that it will be actual shipping costs, not estimated. a trilling motor is going to be oversized, and just getting a box for it is not going to be cheap, nor is protecting it during shipping.

Since I converted my live well to storage...I never clean it... ...except at the end of the season I vacuum it out...

So if I'm not a strong swimmer I have to give up fishing? I'll never be a "strong' swimmer", nor will a lot of people who are out on boats. I'm an adequate swimmer, and I wear my PFD. Works for me.

You're gettin' the idea. IMO, sink tips are for still water or deep, slow current.

Senko

In order of importance: You didn't do anything wrong. Time out of the water is key. If you need to get a tool (like get your pliers) or make some other adjustment, put the fish back in the water. Imagine holding your breath for 90 seconds...that's the perspective that's important. Crimp your barbs. You'll lose some fish. So what? Unless you're fishing a tournament for money that's important to feeding your family...who cares? The ones you do catch will be way easier to unhook. I target pike and muskie a lot. Most of them get released without ever coming in the boat. Most can be released by grabbing the shank of the hook and rotating it out...without a net. Most of the rest can be released by getting them in the net to get them in control...then doing the same. If I can do this routinely with 25" - 50" fish weighing 15 to 25 pounds...anyone can do it with a bass. You're gonna lose some. Either eat 'em, or... Give them to someone who will eat them, or... Recognize that Ma Nature has a system for this. Nothing goes to waste. C&R has become a religion of sorts among fisherman...and like most religions, it suffers form occasional bouts of extremism. Bass and musky fisherman seem to have the current grasp on that extremism. Don't let it get to you.

Short answer: No. Longer answer: I can always find a place out of the wind. Might be a local thing as there's 500+ lakes and three major rivers...and a ton of smaller ones and trout streams...within an hour's drive.

...or half a bag of Oreos...

Yup. Is what it is. Works like a charm. probably best when you don't have a chest cold though.

Lake of the Woods...this loon wouldn't leave us alone...it'd dive under one side of the boat, pop up on the the other, then repeat...for like 15 minutes as we worked a rocky point. Finally quit fishing to just watch. All I could guess at was that there were some baitfish under the boat.

I know what works on a diving mask...

That's what about a third of the folks who see that picture say...

Works on muskies too. That's what my friend "Lefty" says anyway...

I was going to reply...but then I forgot what this topic was about.

Meant to reply earlier...got distracted at work, then forgot. IMO, you're better off with unweighted or lightly weighted flies and a sinking line than you are with a heavy fly. I find an intermediate sinking line easy to throw, especially in 8 wt. They are a complete PITA in shallow water though, unless your flies ride hook point up, or have excellent weed guards.

Those folks who mark you as a "beginner" need to take a trip to Canada and hand the heck on when a 35" - 40" pike or musky slams that "beginner" lure... ...they catch bass too. One of my 6+ pound smallies came on a brown trout pattern #5 Mepps. I've lost count of the number of smallies and largemouth I've caught on them.