Turkey sandwich

who's running it? I may jump in Summer fishing is all about finding fish based on the flow. The river will fish very differently at 7' on the gauge than it will at 1' and both are possibilities that time of year. My best advice would be to use the search tool on this smallmouth forum. A number of us have posted TONS of really good information about fishing that river under every condition imaginable.

If you thought the bass fishing bait monkey was bad... There is some good advice above regarding the line and rod being most important 90% of the time. The types of water you fish and the species you're fishing for will have some impact on what weight, but generally, a 5 or 6 wt will cover most trout fishing bases. You can fish dries with them, nymph, and throw smaller streamers reasonably well. Here's where I suggest spending a bit more money and why: The thing with spending money on fly gear... bad gear can make casting a frustrating nightmare and totally turn you off to the sport. My dad bought me a cheap Cabelas 5wt combo with cheap line that I almost immediately had to replace because casting was less than user friendly. Also, good gear will last you YEARS so long as you don't beat up on it. Consider these things one-time investments for years of enjoyment. I suggest expanding your budget a bit, even if it means fewer beers, you'll thank me later. The Fenwick Aetos fly rods generally sell under $200 and can be had on the inter webs for way less (I paid $100 or so for my 4wt). It's action is fast, but manageable for a beginner. Redington is a company now owned by Sage that also makes a lot of high quality products intended to not break the bank for the new fly angler. Still, I would suggest spending the equivalent of $150-$200 on your rod. Line is next. Getting a floating front tapered line will cover most of your bases. For most trout fishing, I really like Rio Gold, but Scientific Anglers, Sage, Orvis, etc all make quality lines. Some may sell for $70-100, but you can catch them on sale. I don't think you need anything incredible to start, but I would suggest spending at least $50 on line. You can learn to tie your own leaders once you get comfortable casting and begin to understand specific purposes, knots, etc a lot better and they're a great way to save money. However, at first, I would suggest buying tapered leaders to save you frustration. I will also suggest using tippet rings for just about any application that isn't dry flies because they'll save your leaders. I would also suggest picking up mono tippet in 4x and 5x to cover most applications. You can learn on a $50 reel and be totally ok. I will also very strongly suggest casting lessons. Sometimes fish commissions do them for free/cheap. Other times you can get them at fly shops/ Orvis stores. You're going to wan to practice at first. A lot. So... if you can expand your budget to $300 or so, you'll be in great shape and won't be in a crazy rush to upgrade everything by your second season.

I prefer a 7' rod for most spinnerbaits, but generally this is spot on. I use a 7' MH MF Aetos and love it. It's on the faster side of MF, but even with braid provides just enough flex.

I've never fished the rods being mentioned, but I do own the current Legend Elite 7' MH F jig rod and it's fantastic. The Legend X seems to be the same rod with cork split grips, and split grips are my preference for jig fishing. Had the Legend X been around when I upgraded I would have taken it over the Legend Elite. And I really, really like my Legend Elite. If you can get a Legend series rod for $300, I see no reason not to do it. Even if you don't love it (and I'd be shocked if you don't), you'll still get what you paid selling it used.

Welcome to the forums. There are a bunch of us that fish it pretty regularly. Is this a jet boat tournament or kayak?

15-20' is super long. On casting and spinning gear, I really try to keep the knot off of the spool. On average, my leaders on crank bait rods are generally no more than 4-6', and are rarely over 8' for anything other than maybe a Carolina rig.

yes. generally 832. I also prefer snaps vs tying direct to key rings on my crankbaits, if that matters. In boulder strewn rivers, or water with lots of wood/pilings/etc, that line is still going to come into contact with nasty stuff and isn't likely going to sit in place long enough for the line's low visibility/suppleness to effect the presentation. I think there are definitely worse choices for crankbaits than InvisX, but InvisX is definitely far from my first choice for abrasion resistance.

welcome! Where in PA?

I've got "room" for as many as 8 on mine.

In my experience, I'd disagree. While InvisX handles better as a main line, is more supple, and has lower visibility, it does not hold hold up to abrasion nearly as well as the Hybrid. I keep spools of both in similar diameters on the kayak with me 90% of the time and like both lines, only for different things. Dragging the bottom or fishing anywhere with heavy rocks, etc, InvisX has failed on me much, much more frequently than Hybrid. If I'm fishing clear water and/or leaning toward more finesse fishing, the InvisX is awesome. For crankbaits, I'm using a Hybrid leader almost 100% of the time.

Are you having problems with abrasion/break offs/or fishing new water that would require heavier line? - if no, then there's not really a great reason to change unless it's for presentation/performance. Anymore, I only use FC for clear water finesse presentations and use either Sniper or Seaguar Inviz ranging from 6lb-12lb. Generally, 8- 12lb Hybrid is my go-to leader material 80% of the time. Unless there's a real good reason to go heavier, I'm confident that 12lb Hybrid will hold up to just about anything. Also, just because someone has a fishing channel on Youtube, it doesn't necessarily mean that they have any idea what they're actually talking about.

Exactly this. I've found that I'm using FC less and less for everything except really finesse applications in clear water. Most of my leaders are 8-12lb Hybrid and it stands up against rocks, wood, shell beds, toothy critters, etc as well as, if not better than any of the more expensive FC I've used. And it's cheap. I'm even considering using it for streamer fishing on the fly rod. So long as you don't care about memory, it's killer.

Great fish! Man, sometimes we can get so totally consumed by the complicated stuff, and so used to working really hard for that big bite that we overthink things. And man, is it awesome when we get those reminders that the next bite, in whatever weird way it happens, can be an absolute monster. At 22.5", and that girth, that's a solid 6.5. Cheers!

I haven't used CXX, but am a huge fan of Hybrid for the same reasons. It seems like, according to forum members at least, performance between the two is more or less a toss up and they're very similar. I generally fish jigs with 12lb Yozuri Hybrid, and can immediately throw topwaters on the same rod without changing the leader 95% of the time. It's pretty neutrally buoyant, and it's breaking strength is somewhere in the 17-20lb range.

This is a beautiful piece of river!

To me, it's become very hard to beat because of it's ridiculous versatility. It allows you to cover water fast like you would with a walking bait, and rip up the surface aggressively like you would with a buzz bait (with the added benefit of being able to stop it like you might a prop bait). I did really well fishing them under lots of conditions last season and it became the first topwater I reach for 80% of the time. I was waiting for the rod on the right to lose its battle with gravity and fall into the lake. Not that my yak looks that much better after a puzzling day.

your rod clutter in the second video is incredible. lol

Most quarries I've fished have been extremely clear to likely 20+ feet and being super finesse was generally the ticket. knowing no other details about the body of water, I'd likely start with a Senko wacky rigged, slow dragging a drop shot, or working a fluke.

Just get used to feeling the bottom and identifying what you're dragging over and through. Remember that the rod moves your bait and that the reel only collects line. There are tons of other posts on this subject, use the search feature and you'll find hours of reading.

yep. really extensive and he was really helpful. Also witnessed one of the most insane political discussions I've heard in years.

they feel like good sticks.

I really wish I would have caught it. I'm going to have to scan on demand for it.

I don't own them, but I do have two Veritas that are great crank bait rods for the money. I have handled the Ike series rods and for the price point, they feel like really, really nice rods. My only criticism is the same as every Abu rod I've ever owned - I generally don't love foam, but I didn't dislike the grips on the Ike series, and the reel seat seems like it would be really comfortable for my style of palming the rod/reel. The $150 market is starting to get very crowded like the $100 market became a few years ago.

I was in there for the first time this past summer. Their selection is ridiculous and the owner showed me a cool way to rig rattles to virtually anything.

I don't fish them nearly as often as some of the other guys on here (I can't figure out how to throw a jig and a jerk bait at the same time...), but I do have a good collection. I don't think I've ever paid over $15 for a jerk bait. Even the Pointers I own, I bought on sale. I also have a sweet VIP membership through Rapala. So, most of mine are Rapala, and I generally like all of them differently. For fast presentation by the surface, or for letting something die on top - floating Rapala For a very slow floating action - Husky Jerk For a suspending bait I can fish at a lot of different speeds - X - Rap/X-Rap deep For something I want to fall/sink - Shadow Rap/Deep I also like the KVDs and Pointers, but if I had to pick one for versatility, it would probably be the X-Rap