fishballer06

I've been wanting to get a 685cb. I have the 684cb, but I think the 5 would be better suited for larger squarebills and larger jerkbaits.

I saw the photo on Facebook. That's all I know so far. I'm sure it will be nice and will retail around $200.

PM'ing you

Works for me now. Good job!

IPT = inches per turn while turning the handle of the reel In this case, he's saying he prefers a reel that brings in 21-23 inches of line per full rotation of the reel handle

Bill Lewis has the floating traps, and yes, they do still dive down (just now as deep). You could always buy those and put suspen-dots on them.

I ran a 56# Motor Guide on my 202 Blazer (20' with a 200 Merc on it) for years and it did fine. Speed wasn't the greatest against a strong wind or current. I'm now running an 80lb xi5 and I'm much happier. Long story short, 65# should be enough to power your 18.5' Skeeter around just fine.

The Ford truck ad before the video plays flawlessly. The video however, does not work at all.

Craw Chartruese Bluegill Perch Shad

I fish cranks a majority of my time, so it doesn't seem to bother me, especially if you're using the right setups. I've spent numerous week long trips in Canada ripping rattle traps through grassy flats every day for bass, walleye and pike.

I use the 684CB for most of my jerkbait and topwater needs, and I would love to get my hands on a 5 rated version as well. If you prefer the little bit longer length for those presentations, I say go for it. The Champion series will not let you down.

Those same hooks are also used on the Flap Slap, which is Megabass' faster floating, shorter length jerkbait/crankbait. Like others have said, they straighten very easily and they should probably be replaced.

If I'm throwing it by iteself, the Fat. If it's a trailer on something, the regular.

I throw them on a few different rods/reels depending on the situation and size of the squarebill. I'll throw them on any combination of the following: Chronarch ci4 6:1 Metanium 7:1 Tatula R 6:1 Chronarch E5 Cruicial 7' M-MF Avid 7' M-F Champion 684CB Crucial 6'10" MH-F 832 40# braid with a 12-15# FC leader 12# YoZuri Hybrid 15# Pline Fluoroclear

I'd look for a used Bantam Curado for around that price. Or perhaps a used Citica or Tatula.

Usually the gauge of the wire is different between the different sizes. A smaller gauge wire is going to be more likely to bend/straighten out upon being put under a heavy load, such as a fish or a snag. And if a snap is too small in size for the eyelet of the lure/bait, it could mean that it won't center properly or have proper action.

I've been using the 15lb Fluoroclear this spring for squarebills and spinnerbaits. I must say I'm impressed. I like it more than YoZuri.

I've been using the Trilene knot for 10+ years. Its basically the only knot I use on braid. I normally use 5-6 wraps.

832 is stiff and has memory?! You must be using a totally different 832 than me...

Like many others have said, this will happen with ANY balsa bait. Slap the water to remove weeds, hit a bridge piling or a rock or tree on a cast, smack the outboard while launching a cast, etc... I've broken a few DT's and every time it has been my fault. First one I ever broke was from slapping the water. The rest have come from hitting bridge pilings and big rocks.

I have a tournament there next month. Thanks for the report.

If it were me, I'd spend $5 and just buy another one. Lures crack/break all the time. It's just part of fishing.

He got a spinning rod...

I've found that the whole DT series will dive slightly deeper than it's rating on 12lb. FC. I would imagine even deeper on 10 lb. I know I can get DT10's down 13' no problem, and a DT14 will hit 16-17'. I've never fished the DT20, but I wouldn't find it far stretched if someone told me it would run 22'.

Nice fish. I'm assuming it was caught here in PA?