FryDog62

Baitcaster, it’s actually 7-0 Daiwa Tatula Elite AGS Casting Rod 7' Med-MH Ehrler Show Information Taper Line Wt. Lure Wt. Guides Handle Type Handle Length Stock Price Qty Extra Fast 8-20lb 1/8-1oz 8+Tip Elite AGS Cast A ***/4" In Stock: 5+ $279.99

I had a 744 and sold it. Dobyns makes great flippin rod, but I personally don’t think a great bottom contact rod. It’s a fast action but IMO almost closer to a Moderate/Fast...where the Orochi is a Fast action but much crisper, almost like an XF. I think you could toss Senkos on an Orochi, it’s a matter of which model you’d use. I save my Braillist for Dark Sleepers mostly. I throw Senkos on a 7-1 Tatula Elite Ehrler M/MH.

If I’m fishing particularly dirty river water after rain or high water, I fish various “white” colored Senkos. Either: •Berkley Maxscent General in “Blue Pearl Black Hologram” •YamaSenko in “Blue Pearl Silver Fleck” These don’t sound like “white” colors but they basically are and contrast in dark/muddy waters well... maybe even tanic stain as you mentioned.

Could try a guide one day and see what lake he takes you on and how you fish the current conditions, water temps, etc. Probably learn about other lakes to go to as well. Maybe try Rob Manthei http://www.robmanthei.com/ Not so bad if you’re splitting up the guide fee between a few guys. A thought anyway -

I’d say on par in terms of balance with Dobyns. I love my Dobyns flippin rod, but in terms of sensitivity - Orochi hands down..

I started looking at inflatables recently as an option to deflate and leave in storage out of state when not using it. The one I’m most intrigued with (but haven’t used) is the Sea Eagle 385 Fastrack. Reason for my interest is twofold: 1) I can add a trolling motor which is operated to the side instead of reaching back awkwardly to a tiller and 2) It has a forward keel and rear rudders to keep it tracking straight. I’ve seen several videos of people fishing in other rudderless inflatables and they spin around anytime the wind blows or even when they shift their weight to cast, set the hook, fight a fish, etc... Never been in a Sea Eagle but interested in trying one out..

Excellent, night and day compared to the tip heavy St. Croix.

Save yourself time and headache and get an SV spool...

I started skipping with a baitcaster 4 years ago with a variety of quality reel manufacturers. I might get 1-2 casts off but would always end up in a rats nest. A couple years ago I got my first Daiwa SV spool. Markedly better, but you still have to adjust, refine, practice. I’d say I’m 90-95% backlash free now, and when I do over-run it’s not very far... and it’s usually quite easily fixable. I’m getting to the point that I can pinpoint my casts pretty consistently and getting good distance. To see if my improvement was due to lots of practice or the SV spool... a couple times last year I tried to skip with my other reel brands. Maybe slight improvement, but usually after 2-3 decent skips I was back to making nests again. I’m not sponsored by anyone, just Joe Amateur... but if you really want an advantage to learn skipping techniques, I’d bite the bullet and invest in an SV spool. To answer your weight question, I find 3/8 oz best for jigs. I do skip Caffeine Shads a lot on a 3/32 oz Owner Twistlock Light hook too - that thing’ll skip across the pond with the best of them..

My only comparison for you is that I have a Dragger and a Braillist. Couldn’t be happier with both rods, but obviously for different uses. Am surprised to hear some think the Braillist isn’t very sensitive... I use that rod for 1/2-1 oz Dark Sleepers and I think it’s excellent. I sold off a St Croix LTB (for the Braillist) and Dobyns Extreme HP (for the Dragger) and think I upgraded significantly in terms of weight and sensitivity.

Which trailers do you prefer to skip on that jig? Coming to Mpls soon? Still owe you that beer..

I throw Caffeine Shads on a 7-1 Daiwa Tat Elite M/MH baitcasting rod. With 832 braid and an 8 lb fluoro leader. Instead of Zona’s set up, I throw on an Owner 3/32 Twistlock Light hook. Casts far with the braid, and can set the hook/manhandle big smallmouth best with a baitcasting set up. Can burn it and kill it like Zona describes - but on the fall - a Caffeine Shad on that Owner hook is unbelievable and will outfish any fluke I’ve ever thrown. The bubble tail swims, turns, wiggles its tail and goes in another direction like it’s swimming away all on its own. Lights out...

Looks like about 7 hours... could be do-able for 3-4 day weekends.. Thx

Kalin’s makes a Baby Bass with white underbelly... Green, but with just enough white contrast to get their attention without overpowering. Best color Senko I’ve used for smallies in any color water... time tested repeatedly with best results I’ve had on the upper Mississippi and Rum Rivers (including the photo in my bio) not far from Wisconsin.

Yes, the protection of the sacred walleye here in Minnesota is like no other state that I’m aware of. Our bass season doesn’t even open until the walleye season in Mid-May (was Memorial Day until recently) so that any of us “Green Carp” fisherman don’t accidentally snag one of them thar sacred cows

I’m thinking an index finger trigger could help in some finesse situations in manipulating a casting rod better to give the lure more subtle action, or could offer more dexterity/control with jerk baits...

Wasn’t sure where to ask this, so I thought I’d start with some rod builders for your perspective... Is there a way way to add a trigger grip in front of a casting reel for your index finger? I’ve seen this on Wright McGill Rods, but I already own several other rods and was wondering if this could be added aftermarket? I have an arthritic pinky finger that I butt up against the rear trigger when retrieving a lure or fighting a fish, and would be interested to add a trigger grip in front for my index finger thus taking some of the pressure of my painful pinky. Thanks for any response/perspectives..

I sold my 7-4 LTB - I found it tip heavy and the extra weight fatiguing (5.4 oz!). Went to a 7-4 Zolo Dragger, barely weighs over 4 ounces, plus balanced well. Costs less than the LTB, but I would’ve paid more for it, it’s that light/sensitive and strong.

ALX Zolo Kistler Helium 3 (when on sale) Daiwa Tatula

X2 Thats the key, knot should be in front of the T-Wing... even in front of the first guide as that is where you get most line slap (knot fatigue).

X2 I was the master of baitcaster blow ups while skipping with a variety of otherwise decent reel manufacturers. Started using the Daiwa SV spools about 3 years ago and with practice I’m getting pretty good skipping even weightless stuff now. I always thought with all the practice skipping the last few years that I could go back to the other reels and be able to skip much better. I have tried... Nope..

Be aware of not confusing a rod’s power rating with its weight/balance. I’m a recovering fanboy of St Croix rods. Used to have 15 assorted spinning and casting rods. Their ML and Medium rods are good enough... but MH and Heavy are poorly balanced, heavy rods in my opinion. I am down to one 7-1 Medium Fast Mojo and like it but sold off all my MH and H Avids, AvidX’s, LTB’s. Was in denial for years but when I picked up competitors rods in the same price range, I had to finally admit I found a big difference. Lighter, better balanced and just as powerful. Sorry to be an SC basher, but I probably spent too many years using them out of stubbornness. My best advice is to go to a store that sells a variety of rod brands, put a reel on them and feel the weight and balance. Be honest and pick what feels best vs. exclusively one brand.

With the choices the OP listed, I would go with the Dobyns for balance and less fatigue if flipping all day. St. Croixs are thick, tip heavy meat sticks to me. Last year, I sold my SC Legend Tournament Bass Frog Rod for that reason. I checked out a similar AvidX and it felt the same, heavy and unbalanced. It may surprise some people but I have 2 frog rods I much prefer and are less expensive. One is an ALX out of your stated price range, but the other is only $100 and it was far better/lighter than the St. Croix. It would be longer so you may not want it but it’s the Tatula “XT” 7-4 Heavy. Extremely underrated stick IMO.

I use an NRX 852 for wacky rigs, but from a yak you might like the shorter 802 better...

I used an FC leader for years and still do if I need as much sink rate as possible (finesse mostly i.e. drop-shot, Ned). Otherwise I think it can be a bit brittle, weak. So I’ve started using Yo-Zuri Hybrid... it is much stronger, better knots. It is also a little thicker so if you want the use 10 lb FC, drop down to 8 lb YZH (which has a breaking strength of 11 lbs).