FryDog62

I have a Tatula Elite Medium/Medium Heavy and Expride MH. I think either one could work depending on your tip preference. Tatula is XF and Expride is Moderate-Fast. If the Expride are too long a wait I think the Tatula is a very good rod, and would give you great sensitivity. I use it with stretch lines (fluoro/co-poly) rather than braid so the XF tip doesn’t overpower. Other options just above/below your price range: *Tatula Elite (non-AGS) 7'2" Howell rod is MH "Regular" and probably closest in action to the Expride. Less money than the Expride and I'm sure the Shimano guys would say its not in the Expride's class, but it is closer than the $100 difference. *I also have an Orochi Braillist at 7'5" MH-F. Great rod if you want a little more distance. I have thrown Dark Sleepers down to 3/8 oz with those but not sure I'd go any lighter. That rod shines when dragging/bouncing 1/2-3/4 oz swimbaits, Biffle Bugs, Dark Sleepers along the bottom. If you want something similar but a little shorter, I don't have one but the Tour Versatile might fit what your looking for very well.

I haven’t been there this year, but here is a gauge for the flow of the Rum. I would guess it’s medium-high right now but the readings in the link could be your benchmark. https://waterdata.usgs.gov/nwis/uv?site_no=05286000 You’ll catch a bit of everything in a river but yes smallmouth, a few pike/walleye and even though I haven’t caught them there I’ve seen guys catch some big catfish.

Toadface is one of the best and most versatile rods I have. I have all the major brands, some more expensive and ALX are great rods.

I like the Biffle Bug on a Hard Head, However, may prefer the Strike King Jointed Structure Head which is triangular and seems to go thru weeds/cover a little better. Can use a Biffle Bug, Structure Bug, etc. Both good rigs...

Roommate and I have been targeting white bass here in Minnesota before the opener since they are legal. Have had a couple over 3 pounds now. Much more fun than crappies IMHO...

Agree with the Rum River dam in Anoka. Spillway may have some other fishermen at any given time but they are there for a reason.

I wait until after they’re off the beds myself... so post-spawn. Usually starting second half of June in the North, water temps in mid-60’s+

PBJ Protein Bar Zevia caffeinated soda 3 bottles water

They don’t make them that big very often this far North - Congrats!!

Those are tanks and look awesome. I especially like the way he captured the different coloration/bars on each fish. That’s in part what makes those bronze beauties so unique!

I’m not a fan of the Ultra Soft but really do like the Hybrid. I think either Yo-Zuri Hybrid in similar diameter or Sufix Advance Mono would work very well.

7’2” Zolo Toadface. With a Tatula Elite reel you have to make sure you have enough line and be careful not to throw it into the next County...

As someone recovering from tennis elbow, I think the best part of the Elite might be for me to cast easier and get the same distance. ...But I don’t think I’ll be able to resist the urge to bomb one every once in awhile.. ?

Curious which Defier you are using - the regular nylon or Armilo? I started using Advance Mono last year in an effort to find the lowest stretch non-braid line. Have liked it a lot so far, but always open to other ideas. Thx

I can’t comment on the Pixy, but I will say the Elite gets extra distance over my Alphas SV. If I need to skip something I’ll still opt for the Alphas, but the Elite does throw lighter lures as well as heavy ones farther than any reel I’ve had previously ?

I picked up a new Tatula Elite b/c reel this Spring, mostly to add distance to my buzz bait rod. Yes, it definitely seems to get an extra 10-20% distance and/or to get the typical distance with only 80% effort. I decided to give it a tougher test and throw a really light lure. My set up was a 7’1” Phenix Feather Medium-Light Fast, with 7 lb Sunline Sniper. The lure was a 1/8 oz Chatterbait “Micro.” With a little adjustment, mostly loosening the brakes, it really flew. I’d say easily 20% farther as lighter lures can be a challenge to throw on a typical b/c. Best of all, I didn’t feel like I was on the ragged edge of near backlash to get the extra distance. Had to make sure the cast was strong and smooth and thumb-ready. Overall, pretty impressed - -

Drop-shotting will work at most any depth. That being said, I tend to use DS in mid to deeper depths... and Neko in mid depths, Wacky/Ned when shallow. For me, Neko and Ned have replaced the shallower/mid depths where I used to DS, just a preference/confidence thing...

7’2” Moderate-Fast, Medium Heavy Shimano Expride. Reel is a Shimano Curado 70 8.1:1 spooled with 30 lb Sufix 832, sometimes Yo-Zuri Hybrid 10-12 lb leader. Dirty Jigs Finesse Swim Jig 3/8 oz and Keitech Swing Impact trailer, perch/bluegill colors here in the Northland.

You should probably be okay, but with Fast action rods I use fluorocarbon or co-poly as they are a little more forgiving. Braid on a fast action might tear hooks out a little easier...

Mepps fan here, and Chatterbait Micro...

You’ll have to make a choice between either glass or graphite. I myself prefer graphite, but then you need a Moderate/Fast taper so you don’t rip the hooks out of said fish’s mouth. I use a 7’2” MH iRod Stone Cold vibrating jig rod. $150

Over 15 mph I choose my battles, 20+ I just don’t go. Best place to fish on a windy day is a river. Higher banks and protected water helps...

Actually you make a loop around it and then you lick it, pull it, put a stamp on it and then twist 6, 7, 8 or 5 times depending on how their schooling...

Yes, but casting backhand is one thing, skipping is another... I think pitching might be a technique I want to try more. I have all the SV reels from Tat to Steez. I think there’s something to getting the rod to load a bit when pitching versus trying to fling it too much with the wrist/elbow..

Anyone have technique suggestions on getting distance when skipping backhanded with a baitcaster? I’ve seen guys use both hands and others just one when casting (Swindle). I can do either moderately well - what I lack is distance. Do you just decide to give up distance when backhand skipping or are there mechanics that help in that regard?