FryDog62

I use the 110 for smallies and would say I’m about 2 out of 3 batting average. I’m not sure going to the 90 would help and many have reported issues with the performance of the 90 (nose diving, grabbing the line, etc). Maybe you would hook smallies better when it’s calm..? They might get a better look at it and angle of attack..?

“What mono/copolymer have you tried that offers lower stretch, sensitivity, abrasion resistance and castability.“ Answer: Yo-Zuri Hybrid. Stretches less than any non-braid line including fluorocarbon line, and high marks for your other listed criteria too...

Good to know about the tournament, wondering if other fishermen will get pushed out to the surrounding lakes. I’m about 50-50 if I can go out tomorrow and thinking where to go... def not Tonka now - thx for the heads up!

Does it only work if you pay through PayPal or can you use a Visa on eBay and get the 15% discount?

Also, I started out using fluorocarbon but switched to braid/leader. You want to cast these out as far as you can to get them in the strike zone across the bottom as long as possible. The thinner braid just flies a lot farther than fluorocarbon and sinks well enough with smaller diameter..

Yep, I probably had it backwards, will check again tomorrow. Thx guys - -

Had a lot of success with them this year for both smallies and walleyes. They are designed to go along the bottom horizontally, fairly well through light/moderate cover. I think it’s easy to buy them too light though. 3/8 oz is too light to be effective for me, the 1/2 oz is only good down to about 6-8 fow, then I go 3/4 oz 8-12 fow and an ounce deeper than that because a steady medium/fast retrieve bouncing off cover/structure works best IMO.

There’s a rod I’m interested that’s on the American Legacy Fishing site (they also advertise it on eBay). I tried “PLAYFUL15" but said it was invalid. Any other current discounts on either ALF or eBay today?

I’ve only used them a little, but the guys on Mille Lacs say to use any color as long as it’s black, and 1/16 oz if you can cast it, 1/8 oz would be the heaviest.

Baitcasting Rods: 1) Daiwa Tatula (I have 3 models: Tatula, Tatula XT, Tatula Elite). Best overall based on the combination of price (they are best for that in my list), sensitivity, power. 2) Megabass Orochi - outstanding! But because Daiwa is outstanding too, and the Daiwa price is better, Megabass is a close #2 on my list. 3) Kistler, great overall rod. Helium is lighter than air, I only have one of their rods, if I had more and a stronger opinion, they could potentially contend for #1. 4) Dobyns. The most expensive I own and I have 3 Extreme HP models. Light - and the absolute best balanced rod I’ve ever had (especially HEAVY models) but they fall down the list because they don’t have the sensitivity of the above models. A bit of a “numb” feeling for such an expensive stick! Otherwise great. 99) My former favorite rod that has been out-classed so much by the rods above is St. Croix. It pains me to say it after years of touting them as the best rods on earth - but they are the most tip-heavy rods I have ever had to contend with. Never thought this until I started using other rods (which I was reluctant to do for years) but the MH and H St Croix models are lead-tipped beasts. Spinning rods: I’m pretty much all baitcasting now, but I still occasionally use a Fenwick Elite Tech Smallmouth rod in 6’-8” Medium Extra Fast. The best spinning rod I have ever used regardless of price, and THE best handle ever made - and then they discontinued it!! Bring it back Fenwick - even if you have to raise the price. Baitcasting reels: If skipping is an option for anything you do, there is only one option IMO: Daiwa SV. I have Tatulas, Zillions and a Steez and they are the only baitcasting reels I can actually skip a lure and not pick out a rats nest every other cast. If not skipping, I like Lews and Shimano too. Lews LFS at $100 is hard to beat from a value standpoint.

X2 on the above. The only variation I would add is if the current is strong or you just aren’t getting deep enough - then try an Owner Twistlock Light 3/32 oz 4/0 hook on the fluke or Caffeine Shad. It will get you down a tad deeper, but most importantly keeps the bait horizontal even with the added weight. You can still jerk it, same cadence as Smalljaw described. Traditional weighted jigs/hooks are nose-weighted and drive the fluke down vertically head first into the rocks, snags, etc plus it just doesn’t look as natural. The Owner keeps it fluttering more horizontal over and around cover, plus the Twistlock spring helps the plastic last longer..

X2... this is one of the great things about our state... so many small-medium and relatively unexplored lakes. The big bodies of water get so much notoriety but I prefer the smaller ones and rivers where there are less people/pressure. And you’re right, once most people get above Mille Lacs they are pretty much only focused on walleyes. Once at a bait shop in Northern Minnesota I stopped to see if they had any plastic creature baits and the guy looks at me like I’m nuts “What would you need those for? ...But I’ll sell you some shiners here for the walleyes that are in 14 feet of water right now... maybe you’ll also run into some of those ‘bronze carp’ while you’re at it.!”

I see you either pulled or rented a Lund for the trip... that’s about all that’s available up here anyway but not a bad thing either. With all the rocks and rugged shorelines aluminum tends to fare better. Curious what jerkbaits/flukes worked best for you? I use many different colors of those myself but for some reason have always done best with pink on Rainy. X-Raps in Hot Pink or Hot Head, and Caffeine Shads in Bubble Gum. Funny, those colors don’t seem to work very well for me anywhere else...!

Good report Dwight, looks like you had a good time on a fun lake... From living near this part of the country - and knowing the harsh and unpredictable weather - if I were coming from far away, you take a risk in Spring and Fall going to Rainy. Yes, you can catch some of the best fish of the year then but you can also get a front, hypothermia and no fish just as easily. My recommendation is August/Sept. Fish could be deeper but you usually have more consistent weather and time to figure it out. You can always get another guy to go in on renting a guide the first day to learn where they’re at and then fish on your own the rest of the week. Some of those guys that win the Fort Francis tournament, guide throughout the season too. And yes, you can catch big fish that time of year too...

Ajay, what weight Jack Hammer are you using and how deep can you go effectively? I hear the JH will stay down a little more than for instance the Original or Project Z...

...and my teeth have never been whiter!! ?

I honestly haven’t used a line more abrasion resistant than YHB... including braid, fluoride or mono. Tough stuff!!

Yo-Zuri Hybrid is about all I use for crankbait fishing anymore. Extremely tough and the least amount of stretch of any non-braid line.

Dark Sleeper catches both smallmouth and walleyes. Have to go 3/4+ oz though to keep in touch with the bottom if over 8 fow though. Here’s a couple caught this year on the DS in 3-6 fow in a 1/2 oz:

A wacky worm is great but can be mediocre with vegetation present. I think equally (if not more effective) and virtually weedless is a 5 inch Caffeine Shad on an Owner Light Twistlock 3/32 oz in 4/0. An absolute deadly bait on the fall. Falls horizontally about a foot, then turns on its own, flutters the bubble tail and swims horizontally again another direction like a wounded baitfish. Kind of like a Fat Ika but better. Twitch it back a couple times, and let it fall again. And best of all, it skips like a dream maybe even a bit better than a wacky rig.

It’s crazy... I keep going out here and there as water temps have steadily risen thinking it’s going to be ‘game on’ eventually. Still mostly small-mid sized males and a few females here and there but very few really big ones yet.

Agree with Jmhalvo... tough when you get up North. I put in Anoka and go up river to the first two islands on the Mississippi. Along back side of this islands is good. But I have a jack plate and can hike it up pretty far (see link below). I only draft about 14-18 inches and there’s some low spots along the way... but worth it.

Air temps in the low 90’s this weekend ought to have some effect on things!

Talked to a high-level tournament fisherman today - Metro area: 3 to 6 fow water, reaction baits, rattle traps, wiggle warts, chatterbaits, jerk baits. Next week - big girls on Senkos, plastics on beds.

Was on the Mississippi in North metro... water temps 64. The 10-13 inch males are near shore preparing beds, very few females yet. Prob next week...