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FryDog62

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Everything posted by FryDog62

  1. Good points Tom, I’ll try to articulate what I do and why I’m looking for a specific rod. The video below was done by someone I know on waters that I fish... and it works. It’s basically dragging jigs over a boulder field. He talks about the type of rod needed at the 6:30, 9:30 and 14:30 marks. Long rod, bomb casts to keep the Lure in the strike zone the longest, and very sensitive to feel the bottom. It’s a 7’-5” with a fast tip and backbone. The rod is actually an Orochi EMTF, but I’ve talked to Ryan and the new Braillist wasn’t released yet and that would be the best scenario for a 1/2 oz or 11/16 oz jig. Well, that’s the rod I have for this and do this in 8-12 fow. Works great. But now add in a different twist - Mille Lacs. Boulder fields are the key again, but the depths are more likely 18-24 fow. The 11/16 is too light. Keith Combs won the Elite tournament on Mille Lacs last fall dragging 1 oz jigs over the rocks. But now my Braillist is too light too. On the deeper rocks on Mille Lacs, I either use a 1 oz jig, a 3/4 oz Strike King Jointed Structure Head + trailer, or a 1 oz Dark Sleeper... all to “grind” along the bottom/boulders. So I move up to a Heavy Orochi 7’-2” Perfect Pitch. Am launching these heavier lures as far as possible so they can run parallel to the bottom in the strike zone as long as possible. Long casts, but not obnoxiously long... then “Snap.” So, is the key here a longer rod you don’t have to cast as hard, or is it one rated for heavier lures. Or both...? I would think there’s an existing rod on the market that does this not just ok - but extremely well. If not, I could go the customized route - but then what are the specs to build to - length, power, taper, etc?
  2. Thanks Tom, I will look at the Dragger. Reason I am leaning towards a rod rated to 1.5 oz is because I broke off the top 13 inches off of a new 7’-2” Orochi Perfect Pitch rated to 1.2 oz while casting a 1 oz lure. Was I casting hard and getting some snap - yes. But I don’t think I was overcasting either. Might either need a rod with a slightly higher weight rating, or a longer one that doesn’t require as much effort to cast far... or maybe both?
  3. The 7-6 Helium might be a great suggestion. I have and like the 7-3 Helium, Dwight have you fished the 7-6? The 7-3 is a light, sensitive rod - just wondering if you give anything up if you go a little longer (i.e. tip heavy, etc.). The extra length should help get more distance anyway...
  4. Thx, doesn’t look like the link attached. Do you know how heavy a lure the blank is rated for? i.e. 1.5 oz
  5. Yes, Megabass USA has been great to deal with. I will receive a new Perfect Pitch under warranty but will probably use it as a frog rod. So, I still need something to drag the 1oz + lures on the bottom. I’m not familiar with the blank you suggested. Is it a Loomis blank? And how long, lure weight rating, etc?
  6. Interesting situation on my end... I actually had a new Orochi Perfect Pitch for this purpose - dragging the 1 oz jigs/lures... but it snapped while casting last weekend. That’s why I think I need something rated closer to 1.5 oz. The 7’-2” Perfect Pitch did “ok” in terms of casting distance, but I think something 7-3 to 7-6 would be better. The EMTF would be a great length but is only rated to 1 oz. I have a Braillist too, great rod just wish they had a similar model a tad beefier to toss a 1 oz + trailer.
  7. Thank you... I have a couple Dobyns and like them for their balance but haven’t found them to be particularly sensitive bottom contact rods. Maybe just me though, that is a well regarded rod for sure...
  8. Looking for a rod in the $250-350 range, 7’-3” to 7’-6” rated to approx 1.25-1.5 oz that can cast far and drag things like a heavy Hardhead/Biffle Bug or 3/4 oz Strike King Jointed Structure Jig/trailer along the bottom. Keys here are something for making longer casts, and sensitive to maintain bottom contact on fast retrieves in 10-25 Fow. Thanks -
  9. Black/Blue All Terrain Grassmaster 3/4 oz Jig + Pit Boss or Megadaddy trailer on a Heavy 7-3 Kistler Helium 3, Sufix 832 and 12 lb Yo-Zuri Hybrid leader tied with an FG knot.
  10. I prefer these over the O-rings... I think they last much longer and you don’t need a tool to put them on: http://cadmansjigs.weebly.com/wacky-worm-sleeves.html
  11. Tom, I don’t disagree with you and I know some fishermen that go way too far... but where I struggle is if I skip under a dock and get snagged on a rope or cross bar... and I know if I get out on the dock and reach under to unhook I will have a much better outcome than if I dangle off the end of the bow trying to unhook from an awkward angle... and end up snapping off the line/hook in the process creating a hazard to the dock owner. The question is, what’s within reason? Enter the dock under no circumstances, or walk on in an effort to fix?
  12. I stopped skipping jigs around docks a few years ago. Even if you’re really accurate your going to clang off someone’s dock post or pontoon eventually. Pretty much the only things I skip under docks now are weightless worms and flukes. I’ll still hit the goal post once in awhile but it doesn’t sound like beaning the Tinman in the helmet with a fastball anymore either. That sound can set an otherwise laid back lakeshore owner off in a hurry.
  13. Oooh, got humbled today... the two of us used the various techniques I listed above for 5 hours which yielded 2 fish that were 9-10 inches long. All this on a 150 acre lake that a week and a half ago produced 20+ fish averaging 18 inches and largest over 20. We tried everything... How things change quickly this time of year.. Looking at the bright side - at least the two fish I caught would have been state records in one US state. https://craigmedred.news/2018/09/04/new-ak-record/
  14. Are they still that shallow? Thx
  15. Ok BR-MN fraternity bros - need your help - Been traveling too much, but taking out an old neighborhood friend fishing, and I’m the “guide” tomorrow. She doesn’t get out much around the metro to fish very often and I want to put her on some fish. Bass are moving daily right now. We’re going out daybreak until Noon, what do we cover tomorrow in the West metro: •Topwater before the wind comes up •Jigs around deep, green weeds •Chatterbaits on deep weed edges •Crankbaits (at depth?) everywhere and everywhere until we find them •Drop shot deeper structure •Can of worms off the dock •Other Thx guys, pressures on me, but will be a good time...
  16. Just my opinion and I’m not sponsored, but I pre-fished the Choppo 90 and it didn’t have the problems I’ve had with the WP 90... and costs less... maybe worth a try anyway.
  17. Crystal clear conditions is #1 toughest condition for me.
  18. My guess is that the 75 basically cannibalizes the sales of the 90. And the 90, which is a bit of a flawed lure, phases out over time...
  19. Thx, I’ll give you my unbiased opinion... and I’m not sponsored by anyone either... The larger sized Choppo to me is exactly like the WP... in fact if you had me cast them without knowing which was which I don’t think I’d honestly know. There is that rich baritone sound the prop makes at a certain retrieve rate that seems to get most strikes for me anyway, and the Choppo has this as well. The 90 size, I actually stopped using the WP because like others got frustrated with it nose-diving at the wrong time. So I was skeptical picking up the 90 Choppo at first, but found it did not dive at all. Granted I used it on more limited basis than the bigger Choppo, but it was screaming “smallmouth killer” the whole time. The other difference between the Choppo and WP is price. About 1/3 less in cost which I think is refreshing in this day of crazy escalating tackle prices. Whether it’s as durable over time as my WP’s, I don’t know (a plus for WP’s - always have had good luck there) I don’t know but the Choppo seems to be very good quality too.
  20. ...right next to my bottle of Grey Goose ?
  21. Actually it was in a buddy’s freezer all night
  22. 48 degrees at the ramp this morning, but the Berkley Choppo bite on top was still good...
  23. I throw it on a Duckett White Ice 7’-3” MH. It has a softer tip and is usually a great crankbait rod... and with fluorocarbon line usually does a great job keeping fish buttoned up on treble hooks. Despite losing a big bass, it’s a great rod for cranking. Heck, it kept this scud missile attached an hour earlier!
  24. Was on a West Metro Lake yesterday and flogged all the typical spots... nothing... went deeper.... a couple pike... finally at 15-18 fow just outside of the weed line with a DT14, I got a 15 inch, then a 17 followed by maybe my largest LMB of the year - estimating 22 inches - jumped twice, got to the boat, grabbed the net... and then gone...
  25. I have the Pro-V Bass as well and rigged with the same jack plate as in the video below. I have it specifically to run on plane in skinny water that I’m familiar with. Relying solely on tilt/trim is actually counter intuitive - because you trim at an angle which actually digs the transom/prop down and defeats the purpose of trimming “up.” A Jack plate is the way to go in my book.
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