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@BaitFinesse Alright, I'll give them a call tomorrow.

I wish I knew more about reel repair and how they worked. I do appreciate the help, I'll try cleaning the magnetic surfaces and the inductor and take it out to see if that would make a difference. I was told by another member on the forums to send it to a guy named Ian Shields I think, you have experience with the guys at TackleTrap?

@iabass8 I just popped open my reel to check on what you mentioned but neither of the magnetic rings move when applying pressure using a screwdriver in either direction. The inductor has a couple degrees of rotation but nothing I would consider not engaging the spool shaft. Sadly this is my only Zillion or Daiwa baitcaster for that matter so I have no way of interchanging the sideplate.

@BaitFinesse Does the inductor move in and out freely? Yes the inductor on the spool moves in and out freely. Do the centrifugal weights on the inductor move with the inductor? Not sure what weights you are talking about, but the bottom of the magforce inductor has a brown insert that does follow the inductor when pulled in and out. When the mag dial is turned does the magnet ring rotate? The magnet ring does rotate when the brakes are adjusted. @Junger The notches should be in a straight line when set on max braking on the mag dial. - Yes the magnetic rings notches do line up when the brakes are set at the maximum level. @iabass8 Not sure what you mean by the inductor coming loose, but it does move in and out freely and the magnetic rings are able to rotate. @webertime I have no real way of being able to test that, but to me if the inductor spring was too loose it would be over braking not causing backlashes. I appreciate all the responses guys but I don't see any glaring issues that would be causing this. May have to resort to sending this off as I want to keep this reel in my rotation.

Hey guys, trying to get some insight on the issue I'm having with my Daiwa Zillion TD (the old silver and red one). Essentially what is happening is even when putting my brakes on the max setting (10) the reel backlashes even with thumbing the spool heavily. It will begin the cast fine then throughout the middle of the cast the spool will overun drastically. It isn't a question of whether or not I can cast a baitcaster as this behavior is something out of the ordinary. I have made sure that the side plate cover is completely screwed down and that the magforce inductor is able to move freely. I haven't tried cleaning out the magnetic surface in the side plate but it doesn't look dirty and I'm not sure how much it would actually help. Any information would help, Thanks.

@WRB You think the suppleness of braid could cause it to wrap more around branches underwater when flipping flooded wood and brush? I already have a reel spooled with 50lb PP so I could give that a try as well.

Most likely 20lb.

Just curious about what fluorocarbon line you guys use for flipping wood/brush. Looking at reviews online almost everything is hit or miss so I'm having trouble making a decision. Thanks.

I don't necessarily have an outright end goal for this type of project, it would most likely just be a hobby. I enjoy tinkering and so I feel as if I could maybe design something from scratch that would be able to do well on the water. Maybe after a while I could start giving them to friends and see where it goes from there. So you said that you poured a mould for a bait using putty? I guess I could look into that.

I realize that this may take quite a bit of effort so I want to see if anyone has done this on the forum. I'm wanting to know what would be the rough steps you would need to go through from idea to product if you wanted to make a custom soft plastic. I have thought of a few possible routes, designing something in a modeling software such as autocad or fusion 360 and sending it off to a company that does custom CNC machining to have it made or modeling it by hand in something and making a cast. Either way, does anyone know what would be the best way of going about this or is this just not really all that feasible. Thanks.

From experience fish in creeks and rivers usually hang out in areas that are deeper than the surrounding areas, and in some cases slower moving as well. When I go river wading for smallmouth I will usually target current breaks that lead into pools and more often than not those will produce fish. Most of the time the fish aren't going to be sitting directly in a fast moving current, they will be behind rocks or some type of cover and only pull out when they need to.

I would say Randleman Lake around the Greensboro, NC area would be a worth while stop. I feel like its a gem that oftentimes gets overlooked.

Depending on what the conditions call for either a Champion 703 with a Chronarch 200e7 or a Tatula 7'3 and Daiwa BG2000 spinning reel.

Looks like a tokyo/texas rig hybrid. Would probably catch fish but I don't see an advantage over the aforementioned rigs.

Even though this channel is a bit smaller I'm surprised nobody has mentioned Kyle Welcher's youtube yet. The man is quite talented at fishing and almost all his content is centered around tournament fishing with some fun fishing tossed in.

2015 Kia Sportage with ~38k miles on it. I have a trailer hitch bike rack for my mountain and road bike (another immensely expensive hobby) and fold the back seats down for my rods. I usually have 4 rods in my car at all times along with too many baits. Eventually I'd like to get a Tacoma though.

I just purchased a Daiwa BG 2000 and have no complaints. It's more of a saltwater reel but with that comes more robust construction i.e. it will hold up longer. The only other spinning reel I have to compare it is a 5000 size Shimano Saragosa for heavier inshore and offshore fishing and its just as smooth. The drag is also waterproof so it can survive some accidents. I think I got mine for $110 so a bit above your price range but I can recommend it.

I've seen this as well. A heavily used jig will outfish a new jig more often than not. To me its probably the fact its less bulky, and not as uniform in appearance.

I'm sure there are tons of off the wall techniques I've never even attempted but for something more common I would say the dropshot. I just ordered my first spinning setup so I'm hoping to start throwing it more.

Just read the whole article, and wow. I'm a bit newer to the bass fishing scene so I never really knew much about him as a person but this is just lame. For those of you comparing him to Lance Armstrong, there is no comparison. Lance cheated during a time that it was the norm, it was either you did or you didn't race. The Armstrong organization has also raised millions for cancer survivors around the world. Mike Long wasn't even good at bass fishing to begin with.

Definitely not a fly rod due to the handle length. Looks more like a surf spinning rod, they are usually quite long to allow for long casts from the shore.

Currently, but this changes somewhat often. 1. Neko Rig 2. Weightless Fluke 3. Texas Rig Creature Bait 4. Hollow Body Topwater Frog 5. Carolina Rig

Thanks for the insight guys. Those zman products look promising especially their ned rig nose weight.

Yes I am aware that 3/32 is between 1/16 and 1/8, I was originally using 1/8 but sized down to see if the lower weight would make the profile more manageable. I am currently using VMC "neko weights" because those are the only ones that my local Dick's carries. I was trying out a VMC neko rig hook but have also been using Gamakatsu Octopus hooks in size 1. I have also been biting off the top of the worm to get a bit closer to the fatter section of the worm near the egg sack.

@fishwizzard I am using lead nails, the only problem with tungsten being that with the amount of worms that I lose with this rig I would be racking up quite the expense with tungsten. I haven't tried using an o-ring to attach the hook to the worm though, I wonder if that would be more secure that just hooking it through.