timsford

If you are looking at 100 for rod and 100 for reel, I'd look at the Fenwick aetos on the Fenwick site as mentioned above. Great rod at retail which is nearly twice what they are on sale for. The *** black is a great rod with a 100 retail price about anywhere. The daiwa tatula rods are around 150 retail and very nice and can be found around 100 dollars. For tackle is the first place I check, they have a lot of nice rods and reels for around half of retail. As far as reels go I assume you want a bait aster since you mentioned the speed spool. The daiwa tatula and tatula cut can be found around 100 or less. I'd look at the 6.3:1 or so ratios for an all around reel. Shipman has a couple of newer reels available under 100. The caius and canaen both have a lot of features but a plastic or graphite frame. The frame alone would make me go tatula since it's aluminum. If you like the looks of the lews the tournament mb has a better braking system and is a higher tier reel than the speed spool lfs and was 108 on fleabay unless it's changed. For an all around rod and reel combo I'd look at a 6'6"-7' med or med heavy fast depending on brand and a baitcast reel with aluminum frame and good braking system. Something that will last, allow you to throw a variety of lures, and that has a braking system that will help you learn to use your thumb and spend less time picking tangles out of your line

They also raised the price up quite a bit to almost 7 dollars on the pradco brands site, lurenet.com. Normans and bandits have always been some of my favorites because of quality at a reasonable cost, now they are made cheaper but sell for more

Cabelas, bass pro, gander mountain, and academy all have store brand rods well under 100 bucks rated to 2 oz. Now as to whether they can actually handle it or any other info on them, I have no idea. Another idea would be to look at musky rods as they are made for bigger lures and an entry level rod should be fairly easy to find. As far as the reel goes, if you are trying to stay under that budget I'd look for a used abu round reel or maybe a low profile in a low gear ratio, but you may have to use braid with lower priced low profiles since it won't hold enough heavy line

I would go with shimano any day over quantum for a few reasons. I've owned several reels from both makers and all the shimanos (citica and up) still felt the same when I sold them as they did when I got them. I've owned quantum energy (several versions), accurists, a smoke, and several other "pt" reels. Almost all the quantum developed play in the handle or anti reverse bearing, and lost a lot of smoothness after a year or 2 of use. I have always like the external acs cast system that several other brands such as lews and abu seem to have copied, but other than that, the shimanos in equal price ranges just feel superior. Also I never had to deal with it, but I've heard from several guys that sourcing quantum parts for a reel more than a couple seasons old is near impossible and shimano keeps parts in Stock for several years after they discontinue a model. Given the choice of any brand I'll stick with daiwa, but shimano would be my pick over quantum, lews, abu, pfleuger, okuma, and any of the other reels made by doyo or banax

Mrpao is correct. Only the low gear right hand reel has the longer handle. Lews offers a 95mm handle kit with everything needed and it's simple to swap. I always use a small crescent wrench with tape wrapped around where it contacts the handle nut so it doesn't mark it up. Hawgtech makes a nice aftermarket handle and so does semper fi. Also any pfleuger, abu, bass pro, or daiwa handle will fit and give you different knob options

Tims ford lake in south central Tennessee. It is a deep Highland reservoir with many creeks that drain into it and a medium size river that provides most of the water flow. It is a tva lake built in the early 70's and has mostly docks, rocks, bluff banks, and structure and not a lot of visible cover. No weed beds to speak of. It has an excellent smallmouth, largemouth, and spotted bass population, and also a lot of fairly large stripers, hybrids, and walleye. The minimum length limit is 18" for smallmouth and 15" for spots and largemouth and is an excellent smallmouth fishery that gets tons of visitors searching for trophys. 4-5 lb fish are fairly common and 7-8 lb plus fish are caught every year. My favorite way to fish it is actually at the tail water below the lake and the tail water and river of the lake upstream that drains into it. Shad are key most of the time, but craw imitating baits are what I've caught my biggest smallmouth on.

Bass can always be found shallow, but that doesn't mean they are active or willing to bite anything. If I'm fishing shallow when it's hot I concentrate on any cover that creates shade or cooler water and especially anywhere where a creek, river, or source of cooler water enters the lake or pond. Also current will help a lot with fish being active because it is usually cooler water. I remember back when George Cochran won the bass masters classic in august in super shallow water and the whole rest of the field was fishing deep ledges. I'd say it's definitely worth a shot

How does the St Croix ml handle weights around 1/16-3/16? I already have a 6'3" med scv custom and it feels more like a med+ or light mh power. I'm worried the ml will be a heavier powered rod than what I need

Definitely a spinning rod because of small baits ansd casting versatility. I'd also go with a ml from St croix. I like a rod 6'-6'6" for this because of overhanging trees. I use a couple different 6'3" rods in streams. A med action Fenwick smallmouth(more like a med light), and a med aetos. I'm looking for lighter power rods myself in this length for 1/16-3/16 oz baits though

I'm looking at getting a 6'3" ml fast or ex fast rod for throwing mainly 1/16oz-3/166 oz hard jerkbaits. Rod will also be used as a general purpose light tackle rod for bass and walleye, and the occasional trip for trout. I've been looking at several rods, but can't find many reviews. If anyone has used any of these and has any info please let me know anything you can about them. Also if there are any rods that meet this criteria (but have to be 6'3"), please let me know. The quantum exo is the cheapest price, but is about half of retail. It got a great tackle tour review. I don't care for foam handles though or exposed reel seat threads as i hold the rod ahead of the reel and dont want to hold them. The abu venerate has full cork, and a 36 ton blank. I'm not sold because most abu rods are heavier in power than rated so is this new series the same or is it actually a ml. The elite tech walleye has a nice full cork composite grip and a comfortable reelseat, but I'm undecided because the new elite tech bass are heavier in power than the old elite tech smallmouth. For example the med power smallmouth rod blank is now the ml power bass rod according to fenwick. So is this ml actually the same blank as my medium smallmouth rod. The *** looks very nice but has a lighter tip and I think a more moderate action and it may not be stiff enough for what I want. The avid was my first choice, but I have a med power scv build that is more like a med+ or light mh power and I'm worried it will be too much for 1/16-3/16 oz weights. Loomis has a ml and a light in both the smallmouth rods and walleye rods and the walleye series offers a glx 751 and 752. I've found the 751 for right around 250. This is what I'm thinking of getting if I spend over 200 on a production rod. Do the shorter 1 power Loomis rods from 6'-6'6" handle that light of lure well or should I get a 0 power. And last but not least the *** black has a 6'3" ml but it's only rated down to 1/8oz. Had anyone used a ml *** spinning rod and is it true to rating Or should I just have another custom made even though that's the most expensive route. Sorry for the long post I just really want to pick the right rod the first time this time.

I try other baits than the hollow body frog too. Weightless lizards, ribbon tail worms, paddle tail worms, soft plastic frogs like the horny toad, 5" grubs, soft paddletails like keitechs, and zoom speed worms (and similar baits) rigged weedless with appropriate sized ewg hooks all reeled slowly and steady on or near the top. Weightless Texas rigged trick worms in bright colors, stickworms like the senko, and soft jerkbaits like the super fluke all retrieved with varying pauses, twitches, and harder here's from the top to as far down as they will sink. Lightweight pegged 1/16-1/8 oz (so it doesnt get buried) Texas rigs with ribbontail, straight tail, and curly tailed worms, and heavier (1/2oz-1 1/2oz ) Texas rigs, jigs, and punch rigs with compact baits like punch craws and plastic worms that will sink through the weeds and get down to the fish. Add rattles to all baits if possible to make it easier to find. And use either bright colors or black and blue so the fish can see them

I have read a couple of those, but they are titanium frames with zirconium or sic inserts (can't remember which), and I've never seen a pic of one with grooves in the guides. And if they did it has a lifetime warranty. Also in regards to the post about expensive rods and spending 500 on a rod or reel, look at it like this. When I buy a rod or reel I look at it as an investment. Much like automobiles and most other things, you get what you pay for. Equipment that expensive is an investment. If maintenance is done on reels properly and rods are taken care of, rods and reels last forever. Unlike the motor in that corvette, a rod blank does not wear out. I don't care what anyone says, I can feel way more on my $300 rods than I can on my $100. And they feel better, balance better, and look better. They are also much lighter. The fury 735 weighs 6.3oz. The zodias 7'2" H weighs 4.4. I know its a lighter power, but my 7'1" mh aetos weighs just a hair over 4. 2 oz doesnt seem like much, but it makes a big difference when casying all day and when working a t-rig or jig with the tip up. Better equipment performs better, lasts longer, holds its value, and when taken care of properly can last a lifetime and be handed down to tour kids or grandkids. To the OP, good luck with your decision, but imho the aetos is definitely the best deal out there right now on a rod for $100, and I think you will be much happier with it than the e6x. I have fished an imx mbr 783 and I think the aetos was very close to it as far as sensitivity and maybe even better in my hands and since the e6x is a lower tier Loomis than the imx I would guess the aetos had the edge on the e6x in that department. The warranty is also better, and it has titanium guide frames versus stainless.

What do you think of the stick. Is it true to lure and power ratings? How's the sensitivity? Fenwick makes some very nice high end rods for the Japan market and their us models are very nice for the money. I'm trying to decide if the medium casting or medium heavy would be the better choice for light Texas rigs with 3/16 oz bullet weight, finesse jigs, and single hook reaction baits from 1/4-1/2 oz

I use a few different versions. For a quick limit, when the bait fish are small, or in ponds I like the zoom super fluke jr. For most of my soft jerkbait fishing, I use the regular super fluke. For stripers, and for when I see large shad or I'm targeting a kicker fish, I use the magnum super fluke. I use the lunker city sluggo sometimes for stripers or when I've been catching them the fluke and they stop biting. Then I throw the sluggo to present a different look. When the fish are finicky I use the caffeine shad because it falls level. When the fish are super finicky I use the d shad, a fluke stick, or a senko type bait in shad colors. I also use all the zoom baits on scrounger heads and underspins

I think color does matter especially in clear water. I don't know that all these super realistic cranks and stuff like lice targets are necessary because they are moving and the fish doesn't get that good a luck, but natural patterns definitely get me more bites and matching the forage makes a big difference. For example the threadfin shad here have a black back and white belly with a bit of blue along the back. Last fall small is were schooling and hammering them in the backs of creeks. A square bill with a black and blue back got me 10 bass and then I broke it off and couldn't get a bite for over an hour. I took a blue sharpie and added a line to the side and caught 12 more fish. Also the craws around here have orange highlights on the legs and craws. I have out fished my cousin several times with both of using identical line, rod, weight, and hook, with a green pumpkin baby rage craw. I dipped the tips of the claws in orange dye on mine and ended up catching 17 bass and he caught 3. And I was in the back of the boat so I was fishing the same spots after him. I think sound plays a big part as well. Several times I've caught more on plastics in muddy water using a rattle and he was using the same thing without and only caught a few keepers. That's why it's always best to experiment, because you never know what the bass may be keyed in on that day

I love my aetos rods. I got all 5 I have now for under 130 each. I just ordered the newest three at the under 100 clearance price. Great rods, very sensitive with great guides and warranty. These and the old elite tech smallmouth are my favorite rods. I'm gonna pick up a world class on the black Friday sales. I have no affiliation with Fenwick by the way, and I own rods from a lot of other companies. I'd put them up against about any 200 rods out there. I haven't used the e6x but the aetos are the real deal. I'd get 2 aetos rods over 1 e6x any day. I also don't like that they went to foam handles. I'd say it's probably for 2 reasons. Foam is cheaper and lighter than the TAC material. I'd rather have the tac or cork any day though

6'3" medium/xfast Fenwick elite tech smallmouth. Very sensitive and crisp. Awesome grip and super comfortable. The perfect length for casting with accuracy with trees over my head and for skipping under trees and roll casting from shore. Nice light tip to work finesse and weightless plastics and has a lot of backbone for setting the hook

Cf rIf you are trying to throw weightless worms, then a heavy powered a u rod is going to be way too stiff to load and cast well. Their rods are stiffer than most and a mh abu feels like most makers heavy power. For line I'd look at 14-17 lb mono, copoly, or fluoro. If you fish around a lot of weeds then 40 lb braids would be my pick

Ive Texas rigged them with a 1/16 oz pegged bullet weight and a 1/0 gamakatsu wide gap light wire hook. 8lb test trilene xl. Have to set the hook with a little more force but I rarely lose them and never get hung up. Also I've watched the rig in clear water and the trd still floats up and I still catch fish. I don't need rig a whole lot but when I do I usually use this method unless I'm fishing around rocks, gravel, or sand without any hard or weedy cover

I carry 5-6 rods myself and then use 3 3700 boxes and a slim 3600 for terminal tackle in a backpack. Tools and plastics in the small front pocket and plastics in both side pockets. I can fit about 30-40 bags of plastics. I don't always carry that much but I can and prefer to at times

It is a good price if you just really need the 9:1 retrieve speed. I don't frog a ton but when I do the 8 gear tatula type r is plenty fast enough for that. I'm a daiwa guy when it comes to reels. Both casting and spinning. I'm just saying that unless I felt I just had to have the 9 gear zillion, the 8 gear tatula type r is basically the same reel

If you want an upgrade from the tatula I suggest getting a used original zillion, tdz, or new sv103 or alphas sv. Tackle tour did a review and teardown of the zillion tws and tatula and they are the same frame and basically the same reel except that the zillion has a little more refined retrieve feel

If they are very skinny then that usually means there isn't enough forage like bluegill, crappie, crayfish and frogs. The best pond I've fished has a feeder system for the bluegill. It shoots pellets out into the pond that the panfish feed on. When they come to eat the big bass swarm them. I've fished quite a few ponds full of small skinny bass but I've still managed at least a few over 4lbs from each one on the live bluegill technique I mentioned above or on the bluegill swim baits. I really don't know other than harvesting some small bass so there's less competition and some of the larger bluegill and maybe even stocking some fingerling bluegill so that there will be more food to support the smaller panfish. Even then it will take a few years of spawning classes. You might even try stocking some Florida strain bass if possible that are large enough to not get eaten as soon as they are stocked. The cost for stocking might be a little high but Florida strain bass get larger than northern strain

I don't think you necessarily need to start over. Keep the small bass or move them to another pond and keep the large bluegill and crappie that are much bigger than hand size. Also there may be bigger bass in there. If you aren't against live bait catch a pan fish a little smaller than hand size and hook it under the dorsal with a wide gap or kahle style hook. Then use a large float or small balloon tied 2-3 ft above it. Cast it out and let him swim around til the float goes under or balloon pops. Give him at least 5 seconds to take the bait and then lean into it. There's no telling what you may catch out of there. As an alternative to live bait try a bluegill swim bait like a mattlures ultimate and u2 gill, savage gear gill, little creeper sunfish, hudd gill, or other soft bluegill swimbait. I've caught 8lb+ bass out of small ponds where I could hardly manage a 2lber on regular baits

I fish for a few reasons. To relax, because I enjoy the outdoors, sometimes because I like fresh trout, walleye, and crappie to eat. Because I like to take my kids and teach them the joy of the outdoors. My son is 6 and loves to fish. I've taken him since he was 2. When he was 6 he reeled in a 4lber on a zebco dock demon (with 30lb braid I spooled and I also set the hook on the wacky stick worm when I saw the line swimming, but he casted it and reeled it in. I was so proud!:)). Hopefully when he gets old enough I can get him in high school and college tournaments. And I fish for bass because of the challenge. Because it's priceless when I go out and put together a 20lb+ bag of smallies from the bank and see the local tournament was won with 12lbs like last week lol. I caught a 5lb smallie at the boat ramp as a guy was loading his boat and busy telling me the whole time that he hadn't got a bite and I was wasting my time